Messages

Thanks, will check it out

As a newbie, hobbiest I am still getting the hang of this, but I noticed that when sharpening from top (the wheel coming towards you) there is a chance of gouging the jpn stone (it's soft) so I sharpen from below (wheel running away from you) - results are good, no complaints.

Had a bad chip, trued it, running from below and everything going great!


Just curious question:
Any downsides to sharpening from below instead of above?

Thanks!

Hi, Pietje.

The problem with grinding the shaft or reaming the bore of the grinding wheel is that neither corrects the real problem. The grinding wheel has been manufactured with an undersized bore. The real solution is to return the wheel to the vendor for replacement or refund. This assumes that the wheel was purchased new with the presumption that it would properly fit on a Tormek.

We have probably all modified parts to work together for special projects. A brand new, expensive product when used for its intended purpose should function properly without need of user modification. I would expect this of Tormek or any third party.

Ken

+1.

And no japanese Waterstone!

What do you mean? I got the Jpn waterstone and it's good! I just had to change my way of sharpening (instaed of top, I sharpen from down now, less chance of the stone "gripping" the knife and getting a deep scratch.)

Hey!

curious to know if you (who sharpen many knives per day) do the above for each knife or do something like:

I thought in the same way like you.
I solved it by buying a diamond wheel 360 for the first grinding, so the standart stone is always prepared to 1000.

Interesting solution How long does the diamond wheel last? (I have no experience with it)

I never thought anyone intended to make the thread somber (pardon my colonial spelling).

Several years ago, the US distributor for Tormek asked me to fill in for one of their demonstrator s at a local woodworking show. I would be arriving several hours before they did, so I offered to use my personal T7 and T4 instead of them having to ship them. I knew my T4 would probably be running all day. I knew the real "thirty minute duty" situation, and had no hesitation in using my personal T4.

For what it's worth, I have been following every T4 forum post since it was introduced in 2014.I have never read any posts with burned out T4 motors.

Ken

The first time I used my T4, I probably used it for 45 mins, stopped a few times to try stuff, had  no idea of the 30 min rule,

I think this is a case of Tormek being conservative - the T4 didn't even get warm.

It's a very capable workhorse (IMHO).

I was in the same boat as you a few months ago. Ultimately, due to my space constraints, I went with the T4. I wanted the ability where I could stash it away when not in use, and be able to travel with it if needed. I've already been able to take it to my brothers house and do all of his knives when I visited him for the weekend, ..

Yep! Did my sisters knives  , got that chefs knife edge better than factory!

With Tormek, there are no bad choices.

...and comes with a s**tload of fun! I've been experimenting with different angles with "HOUCHO" branded kitchen knives (cheap-ish Japn knife that I got for free).

It's so damn easy to just load the water and grind a new angle in 2 mins to see which works best. My honing skills are still crap IMHO even after watching the Tormek honing video.

I didn't mean that kind of regret, I love my T4!
I meant after buying all the jiggs and truer the price diff was/is not all that much so maybe I should have gone in for the big brother..

Lots of good replies and tips, thanks!

Concensious seems to be: up to 5mm is cool but use the marker to be sure.


Feel free to correct me or leave more tips!

Cheers!

I got the T4, then buying all the stuff seperate I regret not just buying the bigger one!

but the T4 is still overkill for my small collection of knives so... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Hey!

I have the regular wheel, it's getting a slight wobble so I have bought the tt50 to tru it.

Once I tru it (SG stone), the diameter will decrease ever so slightly, so my question is:

(The idea is to normal grind on SG stone, then finish on SJ.)

Will I have to set the angle again on a (new) Japn stone or will the tiny change in the stone diameter not matter enough to do so?

Thanks!

Yup, finding that sweet spot between wicked edge and lasting edge takes some experience...

I also read in the handbook (p.44) that occasionally, it is recommended to re-oil the honing wheel, in addition to recharging the honing compound. The handbook said one application of compound lasts for honing 5-10 tools. After that, it recommends you re-impregnate the honing wheel with a few drops of oil and apply fresh compound.

Interesting, because sounds like most here never reoil but just apply fresh compbound...

Hey!

Thinking of taking up a new hobby, making myself a leather toolbag and wallet
so a question to anybody here who works with leather; what jig do you use to sharpen your leather cutting tools?

Cheers!

I really like this place.

Sometimes I write a block of text and get one/two line asnwers and other times I write one line and get loads of info back