Messages

Thanks!

The problem with being a noob is I know not to put too much oil but lack the experience to know what "too much oil" actually is 

I think as the PA-70 paste breaks down on the honing wheel and the wheel turns black the honing improves. I have no evidence to back this up just feel.

I'm just fearful I didn't put enough oil/paste or it needs more oil/paste...

For example,
my wheel:
https://youtu.be/bI6Erij5Lk8?t=1441

it looks much more rougher and "sand paper-ish" compared to the one in the tormek video, that looks smooth and oiled...

I am a slow truer. While I prefer to true often and lightly, when I do true, I make very light cuts, generally only a fraction of a microadjust number. I generally take at least 90 seconds to make a pass. I won't win any speed contests; however, I have never chippeda stone and I don't have grooves.

Ken

I think I shall try this method when I eventually need to true the stone - I'm not sharpening to win any races either. 

I tried the diamond plate routine... while it keeps the wheel flat (true) edge to edge, I found that the wheel can go out of round after a while... the truing tool prevents this.

Maybe just me.   

Interesting, thanks!

I'm making (editing) my unboxing video on my Tormek, when I first installed the stone I did a check if there was a wobble (some people complained online) but thankfully, no wobble and it seems quite level out of the box.

Not sure when I will need to get it level as I'm just a hobby sharpener with 5 Global knives, 5ish hobby knives, and few from family...

Ah thanks! Seems like I am on the right track anyway - learning this stuff is fun

Looks cool! Which printer are you using and are you uploading your files to a place like thingyverse?

Hey!

I was looking at the Tormek video:



and comparing it to mine, the honing wheel there looks much darker than mine (see below), do I need to put more oil in or does it get darker with use?

Thanks!

Quick Q:
For those of you who own the Japan stone (4k grit), do you use the stropping wheel at all?

Youtube videos show a better mirror finish using the Jap stone compared to the honing wheel..

They do, yes : they abrade the surface and break down the surface particles in the process. Pretty much the same way the stone grader does.

I have not noticed faster wear from the stones. I did find though, that I had to true the wheel less often.

Just for clarity, I did not invent this process at all, I saw it in one of Wootz's videos on stone grading.

Yup, came across that video on a youtube search. It seemed like good different solution to the Tormek tool.

I don't own the Tormke truing tool (yet  ) but from videos it looks like it leaves small lines which the plates solution dont.

Makes more sense if you have a main use for that that jig other than truing, I suppose.

Use your grinding wheel. Keep it trued and dressed. At some point in the future, it will wear out, as will your car and your body.

No! Not my body! 
But I get what you mean 

Ikea do a range of colourful trays which are 33cm by 33cm which are just about right for a t4 (and a slightly larger boring one 32 by 53 cm). All very reasonably priced and quite good at catching water and honing paste drips. 🤫

Thanks for the tip!

Thanks guys!

I think I had a misconception  that using the Tormek was always a 1-2 step process (first coarse then fine), from your replies it sounds like coarse is needed only for damaged /chipped knives

I no longer use the tormek stone grader. I use the diamond plates in the SE-77.

Interesting! Don't the diamond plates "cut" off a thin layer of stone (lessen lifespan) ?

Try it. I think this method is much more of a pain than quickly regrading the grinding wheel.

Nope, I agree that it would be a bigger pain, I was wondering if the commercial guys have multiple machines to help...

I actually get a kick feeling the stone go from rough to smooth  , I had no idea of this being possible in the knife sharpening world before coming to Tormek.

I wonder if perhaps I am spending too much time to go from smooth to rough and vice versa ? Other than the feel method is there some way to test when the stone is "done" converting from one to the other?



> Also, for many knives which are dull, but not damaged, you can omit the coarse grinding. This eliminates both switching back and forth with the stone grader and having to reset the jig (the best of both worlds).


I will have to sharpen at the existing angle then, yes?


Thanks!

Hey!

I'm a noob and a hobby sharpener who jsut got a T4.

I don't have many knives, but it's still a pain in the @... to

- take knife 1, use the grade stone to go to low grit, sharpen, use stone to change to high grit
(change knife)
- take knife 2, use the grade stone to go to low grit, sharpen, use stone to change to high grit
etc

curious to know if you (who sharpen many knives per day) do the above for each knife or do something like:

use the grade stone to go to low grit, sharpen knives 1,2,3,4,5 etc
use stone to change to high grit, sharpen knives 1,2,3,4,5 etc

Thanks guys!

Yup, going through Tormek vids.

You might consider watching Tormek's new instruction videos... (here's one for starters)...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2ifZQOJA7k

That's the exact vid that helped me place my jig correctly (hopefully) on the knife 

Thanks! It's fun to khow how even such a small design of two buttons has a bunch of history and regulations behind it