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I would suggest to start by lining up the drill to start with based on how much damage there is, broken vs severe chipping, then re-adjust as you get close to done with the primary bevel.

Yes, this what I was trying to get at, although the latter part of John's point is a good one, you don't need to just keep grinding until the flutes line up, okay/good to re-adjust them when the flutes are cleaned up so the final grinding is at the angle provided when lined up. 

Thanks Ken,  I'll have another session with that video, it appears that the cutting edge MUST be lined up, parallel to the horizontal line .... can you tell me what the other line is there for ?

I was about to describe how I rotate the drills counterclockwise when they need a lot of grinding, so that the flutes "end up" lined up with the parallel lines.  But before doing so, I thought to check the DBS-22 manual.  Lo and behold...  That is exactly what the slanted lines are for.  First mentioned on page 7 where it talks about lining the flutes up with the parallel lines, but refers readers to page 13 where it talks about the slanted lines for grinding "broken drill".  I would say one does not need to rotate all the way to the slanted lines, depending on just how much more grinding is needed to eliminate chips in the flutes, things that are less than "broken" drills?

This makes me wonder about the wisdom of starting out lining up facets of just dull drills with the parallel lines.  Why are we not rotating all drills just a little CCW from parallel so that when done, they are lines up with the parallel lines, as it says in the figure on page 13. 

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Quick question : Aren't your concerned with the plastic washer wearing down with time ?

When I looked at the stainless steel washer on the machine, it did not show significant wear.  So that is good.
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Of course, you could take your current one to a machinist friend and get it modified.

Stainless is a lot tougher than plastic.  I see "wear" indicated by the shiny ring that abuts the rubber bushing in the case. It isn't wearing down the stainless, just polishing it, but that could change for plastic, especially if not kept greased. But as Rich says, easy to print another. 

Taking a washer to a machine shop sounds nice, but it would be costly enough I think one should re-evaluate the whole situation.  Cutting a shallow concavity in that washer is not as easy as it is to say.  Easy if CNC is an option, but the time to set it up could be prohibitive for a one-off.

This seems like a solution looking for a problem.  Just put your finger on the washer as you slide the wheels off. 

Member cbwx34 here keeps links to some options in his signature line.

Member JVH here has developed a highly sophisticated and featured spreadsheet app. 

Yeah, annoying. When I remember to, which is often not, I move the wheel out enough to reach in and touch the spacer to separate it from the wheel and then finish removing the wheel.

Where does the procedure/process of deburring by "opening" the blades against each other - after having held them apart so they do not touch when closing them - fit in the scheme of scissors deburring.  I'm not sure where else I heard/saw this professed, other than Steve Bottorff, Sharpening Made Easy, but I'm pretty sure I have.

Also, I have heard/read/seen that dragging scissors through wood end grain does not adequately deburr them, meaning I believe there is some disagreement about this method. It really is only able to remove small burrs and can leave ragged tags of burrs.

What about using the MB-102 Multi-Base with the KJ-45?  Then, as noted by Rick, the side of the grinding wheel can be used.

We may not have enough information to properly troubleshoot this.  My sense of the situation is that the handles interfere with using any jigs, in particular the KJ jig; that the longer shafted SVM type jig might not have (or and extension added to the SVM shaft)  It also seems the handles and/or the handle mounts interfere with using available tool rests (because they are too wide, front to back.  That is why I suggested just using the USB as close to the wheel as possible.  I do not see how using the MB-102 provides the clearance needed, since a USB is still used in the MB-102 to get the USB over to the side of the wheel. 

I think some photos by the OP of what he has tried, showing why he is having difficulties are neede. 

Can you do it using just the USB, right up close to the wheel?  Would provide vertical support.  You'd have to regulate the angle "freehand" but the handles should give you a good "handle" on that. 

Here is an interesting video on the family of inexpensive Chinese microscopes. I think he unfairly compares them to a digital camera system and lens that costs several thousand dollars. I own a DSLR with Macro lens and  lighting that I can tether to my computer using Adobe software. It works great but it is not practical for a person sharpening multiple knives or trying to run a small business. If you make your money as a content creator it may be a different story.

I like to use a Bausch & Lomb loupe for edge inspection. Cutting a thermal receipt and feeling for resistance changes gives me a pretty good indication if I got the burr removed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_K8CtSgXREk

That is an interesting video.  I'd be interested in hearing why you think it was an unfair comparison.  I also own and use a DSLR/macro lens/lighting/tethering/focus stacking in post-processing tools. I agree it is not practical for someone doing "production" sharpening in real time, however, it could be quite useful for that same person examining edges/burrs during a process of figuring out effective deburring methods that would then get up into practice for the production sharpening process.  Even, so, I do not anticipate doing this, mainly because I have an adequate alternative, the Kingmas 60X hand microsope.  I also think the video reasonably and accurate demonstrates that the cheap USB cameras really do not deliver on their magnification claims. 

As mentioned in a prior post (above), way back, I explored high-end ($1000+) USB cameras that would do in-camera focus stacking, but still found them too fiddly and not worth it compared to the 60x hand microscope.  I also think the video acknowledges that the cheap USB cameras can be used, up to a point, to examine edges, but the much cheaper hand loupes are a more reasonable method. 

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Ideally, if you could get slightly longer diamond plates (maybe 5cm longer) that could stretch over one vertical and one horizontal USB, they can then be used for truing the wheel extremely accurately.
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I'd be concerned about concentrating the "wear" of the plate on the little bit of it that would be the only part in contact with the grinding wheel.  I think relying on the truing tool for keeping it is square and the diamond plate (used over a large range of its area) would be quite effective.  But...  I use my diamond plate "freehand", not clamped in any jig. 

Select diamond plates of the coarseness you wish to use for said grading.  The Tormek stone grade supposedly can be used, I bought a second one to dedicate for the SB stone, but it didn't seem to do anything and just got glazed (the grader).  A 1000 grit diamond plate is what I use for the SG grading, when I do any.  I think a lot of others do similar. 

That's a hoot.  I never noticed that search window in the upper right corner. 

I've always used the one that is in the header bar between "Home" and "Members (first photo), which brings up the more detailed options window (second photo).

I found this video on a YouTuber I follow and found it really interesting. I think I will invest in one.

https://youtu.be/wBGcfj6-J7Q?si=9domZyoAHvqYgvQr

That looks to be a good solution. Highly featured and good images. However, it is no longer available at the link below the video.  What is available is a larger screened one at $178. 

But, the one thing I took particular note of is the clear plastic shroud that he emphasizes.  Thumbs up.  That is precisely why I like the Kingmas hand microscope so much, maintains focus and the knife can be rotated, etc.  If it were available at the $60 price, I might be tempted. 

I'll watch his video reviewing the higher priced one to see if it has a similar shroud.  Without that, I think it would be a no go.

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Might work, but a lot of bother to set up and occupy space, unless its already set up near your sharpening station.  It may also depend on what you are hoping to do, such as moving the knife bevel along to get a view of more than just a small portion.  I tried looking a knife bevel, but found at that magnification, it was difficult to keep the bevel in the picture - tiny movements are magnified along with the object. 

I have a setup for scanning (copying/digitizing) negatives, slides and prints using a Nikon D780 and a either a Nikkor 60mm or 105mm Macro lens.  Takes great photos, but I would much rather be using the hand microscope I posted about earlier.
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That's a nice setup

Thanks.  In the world of digital camera scanning of negatives & slides, its relatively basic, but quite good enough for my needs.  Pipe stand, Manfroto Super Clamp, Benro 3-way geared tripod head, NISI focusing rail.  Even with all this, it is easy to have errant vibrations that can cause an image to be out of focus.  For instance, the floor in the room where it is, is not all that solid, and while my workbench is, even a little weight shift by me on the floor in front of it all can result in damaging vibrations.

Just to be clear, the image of the knife bevel was not shot with the digital camera. Rather it is what I see through the Kingmas hand microscope.  I don't have any images of knives taken with the digital camera because I just don't bother with it, the Kingmas is much easier and gives me the information I need.

If anyone is interested in more on close-up and macro photography, the absolute best references I've found are the two books by Lester Lefkowitz.  I have gotten rid of everything else. 

I know it might be a bit of a pain but I am wondering how a tethered image from my 25MP Nikon D750 would look on my HD monitor. 25MP allows me to zoom in on details without loss of image quality. I have a nice macro lens that would work well.

One word of caution with the inexpensive USB microscopes is that most are not compatible with your phone last time I looked at them.

Might work, but a lot of bother to set up and occupy space, unless its already set up near your sharpening station.  It may also depend on what you are hoping to do, such as moving the knife bevel along to get a view of more than just a small portion.  I tried looking a knife bevel, but found at that magnification, it was difficult to keep the bevel in the picture - tiny movements are magnified along with the object. 

I have a setup for scanning (copying/digitizing) negatives, slides and prints using a Nikon D780 and a either a Nikkor 60mm or 105mm Macro lens.  Takes great photos, but I would much rather be using the hand microscope I posted about earlier.

Image below shows what I can see and it is easy to travel along the whole length to see what the condition is.  There is a trick/learned process for maintaining focus that involves keeping the clear plastic base in contact with the knife the whole time and tipping the hand microscope to vary the focus point.  Takes up about the space of a cigarette lighter on the workbench.