Topics

I've recently come into a fairly unique, high-end, "micro" drill bit grinder.  Swiss-made, Meteor CH 1, for drills 0.008" to 0.125" (~0.2 to ~3.2 mm) diameter.  These appear to be quite rare.  I've only been able to find information on seemingly more recent or larger capacity (up to 6mm, 0.236") version2, Meteor KSB 3 and KSB 6.  Lathes UK does have limited information, but it is the most extensive that I've found.  Spare parts appear to be equally rare; I've found only on potential source and they have not responded to an inquiry. 

Gringing wheels are about 3" dia., some are carborundum and some are diamond.  Pictured is the diamond, think it is 400 grit.  I have found only two of the KSB models for sale on eBay, from $1200 - $1800.  The two units I have were given to me free.  Only one is complete and fully functional.  The other is in good shape, just not much moves, so full disassembly and cleaning may be necessary. 

You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.

Drill bits are held in a small collet that indexes at 180º.  Indexing groove visible at lower right end of the collet assembly.  Alignment is similar to that of the Tormek DBS-22, but much higher magnification and apparent accuracy. 

You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.

I've had to work with the alignment to get things to work well, which is not well described in the manual.  Manual I have is for the KSB 3 model but seems to be identical to the "CH 1" model I have.

Grinding of a facet.  Works extremely well, fast and easy.  Tight and precise with minimal movement. 

You cannot view this attachment.

Reached limit of photos for a single post, so more to follow. 

Rick

Such as bench grinders and belt grinders.  The grinding grit thrown downward gets into the sliding mechanisms and causes damage.  In the recent training video by Tormek on the BGM-100 use with bench grinders, they commented they don't recommend using the DBS-22 and other jigs.  They didn't say why, but the damage I observed is likely part of the reason. 

You cannot view this attachment.

I had not done any drill bit sharpening for quite a long time.  But enough of my bits had become dull that I was getting ready to have a go at it.  I've had diamond and CBN wheels for quite a while and had never really used them for drill bits to any great extent.  Recently, on another forum, I was exposed to a different style of dedicated drill sharpening, much like the infamous Drill Doctor, but significantly better.  I ended up getting one (Vevor) and feel it is a pretty good machine, but I still like the facets and finishes achieved on the Tormek. 

So, in messing with all this in past week, I tried setting up the DBS-22 on my Rikon slow speed grinder, using and FVB and USB.  This grinder has an 80 grid CBN wheel, which I though would be great for roughing.  It is.  But the DBS platform and clamping block are very close to the wheel and the grit is cast downward, collecting on the jig parts and getting into the sliding ways, plastic between the platforms and zinc-on-zinc between the clamping block and sliding platform.  I noticed significantly greater scratch marks in the grove and ridge of the latter parts. 

I have discontinued using the DBS-22 on the Rikon grinder. 

As part of all this I was using the CBN and diamond wheels on T8, trying different approaches to roughing and finishing the primary and secondary facets.  The nominal method is to grind the primary facets first and then the secondary, the latter requiring a good bit more grinding.  I tried roughing the secondary first and then finishing with the primarys.  I sort of like this approach and have figured out that the angle of the platform for the secondary facets is about 20º relative to the top horizontal surface of the T8 case - using a digital angle cube. 

The angle for primary facets depends on the relief angle used, 7º relief is about 35º and 9º relief is about 32º.  I wanted to know these angles so I could go directly to the secondary first.  However, even though I know what the relative angles are for 7º and 9º reliefs are, I still use the Tormek angle template for setting these, it is more consistent and faster.

Further messing with roughing first, I decided to see how the "original" Blackstone (SB) would do, as well as the 10" dia. x 1" wide traditional high speed grinding wheel that I fitted to the T8 would do.  I found that I like these latter two as much or better than the CBN and diamond wheels.  For one thing, there is less fiddling with wheel changes and given how the DBS sets up relative to the grinding wheels, variation in wheel diameter is much less problematic, compared to angle setting for knife sharpening. 

I found the grind finish of the SB wheel equal to that of the DF diamond and there is no worry about wearing out the diamond or CBN wheels, allowing them to be saved for knives. 

Jumping back to that "other" drill sharpener, the Vevor, I was thinking it might serve as a good roughing first step, reducing the amount of heavy metal removal on the T8. It does, but it creates a single relief angle by rotating the bit, whereas the Tormek creates two flat reliefs in the primary and secondary facets.  There is still a good bit of metal removal to do in grinding the secondary relief after roughing on the Vevor.  A combination of the two might work, where the the Vevor is used to rough in what will become the secondary and finishing by grinding only the primary on the Tormek.  I tried this, it works.  But the grind finish of the Vevor (230 grid CBN) is rough enough that it isn't aesthetically pleasing as when the secondary is done with the Tormek.  As a result, I'm now wondering about setting up a platform rest on the Rikon for roughing, the way Jan did back in January 2017.

You cannot view this attachment.

Rick

I'm working on setting up my 8" slow speed Rikon bench grinder for sharpening drill bits using the DBS-22 drill bit jig.  I am curious if there is a height difference of the USB bar, relative to the machine shaft centerline when set up on the two sizes of Tormek machines, T8 and T4.  This could be a question pertaining to other jigs as well, for example, if Tormek designed them to be the same. 

I measured my T8, with the USB set up in the horizontal (front) slots and distanced from a true 250mm grinding wheel using the Tormek lip clearance angle template, per the instructions.  Distance between the USB centerline and the machine shaft centerline was about 4cm.  Measured it by measuring from the bench top surface to each centerline and subtracted (24.3cm - 20.3cm = 4cm).

If someone with a T4 and the DBS-22 could set up the USB for the DBS-22 and measure the these heights, I would really appreciate it. 

Part of why I ask is that I'm using an FVB in a BGM-100 setup in the horizontal position and a standard USB vertical in the FVB, so I have no reference this height so the drill point addresses the wheel in an orientation similar to on the Tormeks.  Instructions for setting up the BGM-100 do not address the sort of setup I'm working with, putting the USB well below the centerline of the grinder. 

Rick

The Tormek system is so versatile. I'm a maker/mod-er/fiddler and over the years have done all sorts of things with my Tormek that go beyond sharpening.  Currently, I am making some bamboo fly rods and have come to the stage of treating the snake guide feet, which means taking a supposedly "finished" stamped feet and thinning and fairing them so that when the silk thread is wrapped over to secure them that there is a smooth, aesthetic transition rather than a noticeable bump.  This task it typically done using files and sandpaper and often on some sort of fine grit grinder.

Top: As received, Middle: Flattened with hydraulic press, Bottom: faired using Tormek diamond wheels. 
You cannot view this attachment.

Hydraulic press.  I ground a raduis on the corner of an old HSS cutting tool so there would not be a sharp step at the transition. 
You cannot view this attachment.

Fairing on diamond wheel
You cannot view this attachment.

Rick

Traveling with my T8 kit so I can sharpen friend's knives, etc. and forgot a few things:
  1) FVB,
  2) SJ wheel and 
  3) rock hard felt wheel for 1µ diamond paste. 

I'll just use the composite deburring wheel for the deburring; won't be the same, but will be adequate. 

The FVB is a little more troublesome.  Fortunately, I did bring the MB-100.  Took a bit of fiddling, but came up with and arrangement that will work.  Lacking threads on the posts results in cruder means for adjusting the position/height for angle setting, but can be made to work. 

Rick

Still watching (listening while typing) the KJ self-centering jig video.  It occurs to me that the pin pivot collar can be used, turned around, with a second stop further out )of either type), to replicate the convex bevel creation method they demonstrated with the new "two-stop" feature.  This would be with the existing SVM-xx jigs.  Haven't tried it, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work.  By varying the distance between the stops, different curvatures of the convexity could be created.

Rick

I've been asked to sharpen a pair of Wusthof kitchen shears (see photos).  These are not the "take apart" variety.  There is a chromed cap on one side and the other side appears to be a raised logo/boss that is part of the plastic handle casting. 

I don't want to go digging at the chromed cap if there is no point, if they cannot be taken apart. 

I know many scissors can be sharpened without taking them apart.  However, these do not open far enough (less than 90º) to allow access to the entire blade (see last photo).  And I know that the entire blade does not have to be sharpened, just the areas of the blades that actually open and can cut something.  But the length of exposed blades that could be reached is significantly less than the "usable" blade length (to the right of the black marker line on the upper blade in the third photo. 

Do any of you know how/if these scissors can be taken apart? 

Any help much appreciated.

Rick

Just had an interesting experience, with launching into a development project, just to have it pulled away. 

For the past three years, I've been sharpening pruning and clipping tools (scissors, garden clippers, limb loppers) for a local marihuana/hemp grower.  A couple days ago, they brought me their entire arsenal and asked me to sharpened them again, in advance of their harvest processing season (October).  But, this time with a big twist.  They wanted to modify their small nipper/scissors to shorten the blades.  I agreed it was a good idea because the thin, curved blades seemed to dull very quickly due to how they meshed/closed.  Here is what these small nippers look like, 1) stock on the left, 2) parts, including one stock blade and one modified blade, in the middle and 3) shortened blade version on the right. 


The modification involves cutting the blade shorter and grinding the spine profile.  Based on the example presented by the grower, I used three facets.  Initially, I did freehand, but knew I needed to develop a jig in order to have some consistency and efficiency.  I thought the Drill Bit Jig, with the vertical and rotational angle positioning, and adjustable feed stop platform was the perfect place to start. 


I also wanted a manner of holding the nipper blades for fast interchange as there are 30 pairs to modify and sharpen (60 individual blades).



I designed and made a flat plate platform, with a sloped groove on the bottom to follow the guide on the DBS platform and a tab for positioning with the adjustable feed stop.  To hold and position the nipper blades, I used dowel pins. 



Have to stop here as there too many photos for a single post. 

Rick

I have been sharpening some plane blades recently using the black marker method.  But, I need to be a bit more accurate and consistent with some, particularly for an idea I have for rough/heavy metal removal. 

I've been studying the TormekCalc2 tab "BevelCalc", which appears to be the repository for various calculations for this sort of tool.  I think I am looking for a value like "Grinding Angle △ [º]" as used on the TormekCalc tab.  I expect this will be a forehead slapper when I find out, but could someone point me to it, please?  Or enlighten me on how to generate it.  I have selected the "jig" as SE-77. 

Thanks,

Rick

Leapfrogging from the Drill Bit Jig plate mod (DBS-22), I made two adaptations based on the DBS-22 today,

1) mounted a Horizontal Base (XB-100) on my Viel 1-x42 belt grinder so I could use the DBS-22 on it, and
2) adapted the DBS-22 for grinding facets on a tool/accessory for use in a completely non-sharpening function/hobby. 

Mounting the XB-100 to the upright positioned Viel was relatively easy and in looking back at my photos, I had done it once before, but abandoned it.  In the previous version, I was attempting to use the knife jigs and had different requirements for placement.  I had actually forgotten about it and have lost track of the block of wood I had used.  I fabricated a largely different block/XB-100 mount focused on position for the DBS-22 base plate. 


The non-Tormek, non-sharpening function was to grind two facets/angles on a small cutout section of stainless steel tubing for use as a "hold-down" for strips of bamboo for planing into tapered, triangular shapes for the making of bamboo fly rods.  Facets A and B. 


I had come up with jigs and methods of machining the other aspects of this tool using traditional machining jigs,

but these things are too small and get too hot to hold by hand and the only effective clamping tool I had caused damage to parts of the hold-down.  So I needed a different method.  I needed a way to hold the part, a way to grind the facets at particular angles and to be able to "move in" to a final condition, similar to when grinding the facets on drill bits.  And I need to be able to do this repeatedly with multiple parts.  Thus, my thoughts turned to the Tormek DBS-22. 

First, the DBS-22 plate had to be set square with the Viel platen. 


And the hold-down part held in a specially made jig for mounting the DBS-22 clamp. 


And the angles set for each of the two facets. 
Facet A


Facet B  This is where the added holes for setting the DBS-22 up for grinding brad point drill bits came into play.  The plate needed more angle and the alternative hole locations provide it. 


A further consideration for Facet B is that I need it to be ground with a very slight radius.  To do this I loosen the rear angle locking screw (next to the "P" on the jig) so the jig can rotate and very lightly tough the facet as the jig is rotated every so slightly.  No photo showing this. 

I'm very pleased overall, as the DBS-22 is performing just about perfectly for this task.  The main challenge is getting everything set so the surface ground on the tool facets are square to the tool, irrespective of how square the DBS-22 plate is to the platen. 

I am now able to proceed with producing a few prototypes of these bamboo strip hold-downs to send to the the maker of the planing machine for their testing as an alternative to their current method for securing the strips on the planing "anvils".  They have been very excited and interested in the concept information that I've sent. 

The point for all "Tormkers" is the versatility of the tool if one can, to use an over-used phrase, "think outside the box". 

Rick

I have been presented with a set of curved scissors for sharpening.  These particular ones are "grooming" of a sort - clipping the hair/fur from cow's ears around the ID tags so the tags can be seen more easily.  While both blades have large curves, the bevel on one blade is relatively straight, whereas the bevel on the other blade is convex. 

There was a previous thread here on curved scissors, but it did not provide much useful information.

The curvature on these is so great, I am not sure how to clamp them in the scissors jig.  Haven't tried anything yet, but I'll work on that.  Assuming I can figure a way to hold them, I think the first blade, even though it isn't perfectly straight can be sharpened in the conventional manner.  I think doing so may enforce a flatter/straighter bevel. 

I am thinking that for the convex blade, the scissors jig will need to be rotated/rocked to pass over the entire bevel, somewhat like free-handing, but with the jig maintaining the bevel angle.

A curious feature on the bevels of these blades is that the grind marks/lines are parallel with the blades, rather than perpendicular. I have wondered about using my Viel belt grinder to work these bevels to keep the grinding pattern parallel, but have not yet sat down with it to see how that might be done.  Owners were clueless about any and all of this. 

First issue I have to solve on the Viel is that the motor has stopped working (PSI variable speed/reversible).  Comments on the FB Viel site said that it could be grinding grit that has gotten into the electronic and that simply blowing it all out remedies the situation. 

I'm interested in hearing ideas on how to sharpen these.  These are not high end scissors, by any means, but I sure don't want to mess them up, as these folks need them to work and who knows if they can be replaced. 

Thanks,

Rick

An interesting line of discussion came up recently in a maillist on the making of bamboo fly rods, in regard to dulling of edges.  This may be old news to knife sharpeners, but as it pertains to razors, something we use as references or standards, I found it interesting and confirming. 

Relevant discussion from the original thread is further below, immediately below are links to the source information referenced in the discussion. 

Rick

I posted this to the BESS Exchange also.

Article URL
https://www.sciencemag.org/news/2020/08/your-hair-can-crack-steel-when-it-hits-right-spot?utm_campaign=news_daily_2020-08-13&et_rid=17102816&et_cid=3445815

Video URL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kgw6j9n_2o#action=share

On 8/17/2020 5:32 AM, H...V... via Rodmakers wrote:
>
>
> On 17 Aug 2020, at 14:27, T...S... via Rodmakers <rodmakers@lists.canerodmakers.com> wrote:
>
>> What they don't talk about, and the razor companies don't tell you is that what causes most early failure in a blade is actually corrosion. Stainless is not naturally corrosion resistant, what makes it so is a microscopically thin layer of oxide that forms on it's surface. When you shave, that oxide wears away allowing corrosion to start. As long as the metal is exposed to oxygen in the air, the oxide layer will restore itself fairly quickly, and the steel is again protected.
>
>
> I assume that is a chromium oxide? As far as I know it is primarily the chromium content that makes stainless steel 'stainless' - and iron oxides are, for the most part, and that includes all non-esoteric oxides, non-passivating, i.e. an iron oxide layer (aka rust) does not prevent further oxidation underneath - unlike e.g. an aluminium oxide skin on aluminium.


On 8/17/2020 5:07 AM, H...V... via Rodmakers wrote:
> Note that there is nothing special about the 'process' they describe - see also their introduction:
>
>> Steels for sharp edges or tools typically have martensitic microstructures, high carbide contents, and various coatings to exhibit high hardness and wear resistance. Yet they become practically unusable upon cutting much softer materials such as human hair, cheese, or potatoes. Despite this being an everyday observation, the underlying physical micromechanisms are poorly understood because of the structural complexity of the interacting materials and the complex boundary conditions of their co-deformation. To unravel this complexity, we carried out interrupted tests and in situ electron microscopy cutting experiments with two micromechanical testing setups. We investigated the findings analytically and numerically, revealing that the spatial variation of lath martensite structure plays the key role leading to a mixed-mode II-III cracking phenomenon before appreciable wear.
>
> It's only their detailed look at what's happening at the 'between nano and micro' scale, after each individual use that is (somewhat) new.
>
> So yes, this is definitely also what's happening to our plane blades on bamboo, and to plane blades on 'normal' wood, and to kitchen knives while cutting onions on a chopping board.
>
> Way I understand it is the extent of this process is primarily dependent on the alloy type and heat treatment of the steel. My guess is that razor blade steel is harder, more crystalline, than our plane blade iron.
>
>>
>>> On 17 Aug 2020, at 13:56, T...S... via Rodmakers <rodmakers@lists.canerodmakers.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Dear All,
>>> here is an interesting study and especially a nice video how razer blades become dull.
>>> Perhaps same is happening to our plane blades due to the hard cane fibres.
>>> https://www.sciencemag.org/news/2020/08/your-hair-can-crack-steel-when-it-hits-right-spot?utm_campaign=news_daily_2020-08-13&et_rid=17102816&et_cid=3445815
>>>
>>> br
>>> Tapani
>>>
>>> Rodmakers List - https://rodmakers.canerodmakers.com

I just responded to a private message from a member asking about where I purchased an individual spare part, a Micro Adjust Nut.  He was not able to find it on the Tormek spare parts site.  This is because Tormek only lists whole assemblies as spare parts and does not show individual component parts.  My source for these individual parts has been Advanced Machinery.  Advanced Machinery has a very comprehensive listing of parts for all or nearly all machine models and accessories and subassemblies.

Advanced Machinery
https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/pages/tormek-home

Scroll down on the above page to the Spare Parts Finder box.
https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/pages/tormek-parts-finder

Read below on how to find individual spare parts. 

I can recall purchasing the Micro Adjust Nuts I referenced in a recent post, as well as the 6mm locking knobs/screws on most accessories.  I believe I've purchased a number of other accessories through Advance, such as spare USBs, XB-100s, Bench Grinder Mounting Set, etc.

An excellent resource for locating spare parts is Rich Colvin's Part Number Reference post on the forum
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=4030.msg27881#msg27881

Rick

...snip...
Yes, you probably won't find it on the Tormek spare parts.  They list spare parts as complete items, rather than individual parts that are part of their larger parts assemblies.  Another, and I think better source for spare parts is Advanced Machinery. They list most things with exploded diagrams showing all or most of the individual parts and list them with clickable links.

Advanced Machinery: Tormek Parts Finder
https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/pages/tormek-parts-finder

I have purchased the Micro Adjust Nuts and the 6mm Locking Knobs (Screws) on many/most of their jigs and the USB sleeves, etc.

Micro Adjust Nut
https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/66-us-105n-micro-adjust-nut-w-scale-for-universal-support

6mm Locking Screw (no picture)
https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/7031-locking-screw

I have found Advanced Machinery to be excellent as a reseller, fast, friendly and reliable.  I highly recommend them.

Rick

My CATRA died.  The "stock" batteries that came with it corroded and I cannot get the deepest one out.  Probably doesn't matter, the barrel and contacts are probably ruined.  If I still had a CATRA with the original batteries, I would definitely be replacing them with some higher quality batteries, like Duracell. 

I need a replacement.  I know the CATRAs are still available, but spendy (~$150).  I've looked at the VETAKO "Master", which had a brief appearance here a while back.  Less to comparable costs, from around $128-$163 USD shipped. 

I would like to hear from anyone who has one of the VETAKO units.  Their web site appears to show that they ship internationally.  How well do they work.  How have they held up?  How long did it take to receive it?  Etc. 

Thanks,

Rick

Just got this notice in my email.  3:30 PM in Sweden is 9:30 AM Eastern USA time.  Many of you will probably get the email also, just letting others know.

Live Sharpening Class with Tormek!

For the first time, we're now doing a live sharpening class on YouTube in English. We will broadcast this on Thursday, April 2 at 3.30 PM, Swedish time. We will be talking about different techniques for knife sharpening.

The class is interactive, which means we will be able to answer all your questions during the live stream. The entire class will be published on our YouTube channel for those who want to see it again or who are unable to attend live on Thursday.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2ifZQOJA7k

Has anyone tried this laser gionometer? 

The wider angle scale looks attractive, better resolution than the CATRA one I have.  I wonder about it, however, as the reading being shown (in the Amazon ad) is fairly diffuse. I suspect that is a result of the knife edge not being very well defined/sharp.  But it would be nice to hear from anyone who has used one. 

Rick

I received today a pair of scissors that need to be clamped on the left side of the scissors jig clamp. 


Have not run it to this before.  So, I go to loose the left side and noticed it rattles and flops, whereas the right side wiggles and is springy.  Checking it out, I discovered the left side does not have the conical springs as the right side does (same springs as in the knife jigs). 


I am pretty sure I have never taken either side of these clamps apart; I didn't even realize there were any springs in there.  Anyone else's jig have only two? 

Rick

I finally set up some of the paper wheels I've had for a year, for honing edges.  They are 10" wheels from Razor Sharp, purchased through Steve Bottorff/Sharpening Made Easy.  The wheels are about 1 1/4" wide.  They came with some plastic bushings, 3/4" to 5/8" but I prefer using stainless steel, so I made some from some tubing I had on hand.  The OD was fine, but the tubing is welded so the ID had irregularities, so I bored them out to a close but slip fit on the grinder shaft.  I used the 8" half-speed Rikon grinder I bought more than a year ago that I had set up with BGMs but found I could not control the heat along the apexes, so I quit using it for sharpening.  And now that I have the Viel 1x42 belt sander, I do not need the Rikon for roughing bevels. 


At first I thought I could use the nice flanges from the Rikon, but with the additional width of the paper wheels, there was not enough thread left for the nuts to be secure, so I machined some custom ones from aluminum, similar to the ones I made for mounting the Norton 3X grindstone on my T8. 


It was a lot more involved than I anticipated setting up the BGMs, per Wootz's instructions, attempting to have them come out with the vertical and horizontal distances he recommends.  I tried really hard to make both sides the same.  It was futile.  I think I'd like to try making better mounts later, but I just want to get on with using it all now.  They'll probably stay that way once I start using them.


I've relied heavily on information from Wootz, including diamond pastes.  I have set up the first two paper wheels, one with 5 micron and the other with a 50:50 mix of 0.5 and 0.25 micron.  The procedure for applying the paste came from Kwakster, via Wootz, which is to use an oil with tackifiers.  I could not find any tackifier product to use to add to oil and the only oil I could find with tackifier was chain saw chain oil.  I don't need much and didn't want to buy a large quantity and I was lucky enough to find a friend with a little left in a gallon jug.  At the time, I didn't own a chain saw.  Now I do, so I can actually use a larger quantity now.  Go figure. 

I haven't tried the paper wheels out yet.  I'm waiting for the final application of oil to dry.  It is too late tonight to get into it, so in the morning.  I'm excited.  One of my motivations a year ago was a desire/need to sharpen ceramics.  But, the impetus to set the paper wheels up then stalled as I learned how to better use the Tormek leather honing wheel as I worked a couple of farmers markets and the need to sharpen ceramics disappeared. 

I'll have some time tomorrow to try them out, but won't be able to get into a more involved sharpening session.  I also have to do laundry, pay bills, split some wood and pack for a trip.  I'm going to Arkansas for a bamboo fly rod makers gathering.  One of the top rodmakers will be presenting a program on sharpening, as it pertains to plane irons.  I will be taking my BESS sharpness test instrument to supplement his presentation. 

Rick

Recall that last Fall, at the conclusion of my stints doing farmers markets, my SJ stone got dropped and soaked with acetone.  Massive cracks and chips.  We all thought it was toast.  I gave up on it and even gave up on using an SJ stone altogether.  I was thinking I might try painting the sides with MinWax Wood Hardener (acrylic dissolved in acetone) in an attempt to infuse the acrylic into the stone matrix well below the outer surface, hoping that would "glue" the cracks together enough to make the wheel useful again.  Never got around to trying that. 

I just received today nine knives from the high end steak house in my tiny community.  Nothing special as far as knives go.  But, I wanted to be able to finish them with the SJ stone, so I got out my motorized truing tool and went to work. 

I wasn't expecting much, but I am astounded.  It was VERY out of round and it took a while to get it down to touching around the entire circumference.  The outer surface cleaned up much betting than I expected in the areas where the cracks are.  I can barely see the cracks and barely feel them.  I haven't used it yet on any knives, but it cleaned up so nice, I could be tempted to use it in edge-leading mode from the vertical USB.

See the photos below and then watch these videos.

Cleaned up after fast passes, prior to chamfering the corners

After chamfering, finish slow pass. 

I need to true my SB and SJ stones, so will do them before tackling the restaurant knives.  The six Henckels that I did for the restaurant manager's knives were all done on the diamond wheels followed by controlled angle honing on the leather wheel. 

I am still in disbelief that this SJ stone appears to be in very good shape and very usable.  I will report back after using it with these restaurant knives. 

Rick

I recently sharpened a set of Henckels (not high end, the whole set cost around $150US), including one paring knife.  The paring knife is one of the Bird's Peak blades which are concave.  I think the knife I worked on is this one. 

I thought I was careful about keeping the blade canted such that the only part touching/grinding on the stone was at the very edge, but apparently, I didn't do it quite right, as the customer commented some days later that the knife no longer had the "hook" that she liked so much when paring fruit for canning.  I do not yet know exactly what it is that she isn't happy with and thinks that is different from before I worked on it, but I have that question out to her.  She and her husband were quite thrilled with the sharpened knives in general and he, being manager of the local high end steak house, is bringing to me, tomorrow, 10 or so of the restaurant's knives for sharpening over the two days per week they are closed.  I do not know what sorts of knives these are but the one he showed me appeared to be more of the mainstream stainless sort than high end.  I've asked him to bring back his wife's paring knife so that I may fix what is wrong/not liked about it. 

Okay, so, given that, how do I fix it?  Assuming the problem is that there is not as much "hook" as the original, it seems I need to grind away some of the center area of the trough.  I've studied Knife Grinders page on sharpening concave edges.  Took a little bit of study, but I think I understand, and it is clear I did not do things as he describes.  I can correct that.  What I cannot do, however, is use either 1) radiused grindstones or 2) honing wheel.  All I have, in service, are: 1) Tormek SG, SB stones, 2) Tormek diamond wheels (DC, DF and DE) and 3) Tormek leather honing wheel.  I do have some paper wheels and one hard felt wheel, all 10 inch, but I've not set any of them up. 

I could radius a paper wheel or the felt wheel for honing, but that does not address the need for radiused grinding stones/wheels.  I could radius the SG and SB stones, but I'm not at all excited about doing that.  I do have the 8" Norton 80 grit 3X grindstone that I use for shaping bevels on really dull knives and did use on all of these Henckels. 

Is it going to work, say, if I follow Knife Grinders' procedure, in particular about using a collar on both sides of the jig shaft to limit travel but that allows for following the LOC across the curvature, while using relatively sharp cornered stones?  I think I would opt to use the SB and SB stones as they can handle some raduising, whereas the diamond wheels cannot. 

I'm interested to hear your thoughts. 

Thanks,

Rick