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Dear Rick,
Thanks for the answers. I could guess that there is no better solution then hand sharpening relying on the sharpeners skill.

Will forward the answer. Thanks.

Sorry, I didn't notice the pic. wasn't attached.

A client asked me this Q and I wasn't sure what to recommend.

If Tormek decide to make a new knife jig, I want to suggest "the calibration feature"

I think that not only self-centering but also calibration feature are necessary. Because asymmetric bevel(flat grind) or uneven surface of the blade can disable the self-centering.

This can be found not only in knives, which are made very roughly, but also in factory knives produced in the U.S.

Mmmmm/ Lets see. Self centering is the most desirable feature we can ask. That will be good for 99% of the knifes.
Calibration of the jig is yet another feature the is very specific and will probably make the jig even more sophisticated at a very high cost. Money, weight, and ease of usage.
"uneven surface of the blade can disable the self-centering." Depend on the self centering design of cause. Do you have an idea for self centering that collided with uneven surface?

I wonder how much would you guys be prepared to pay for a self centering jig or system?

Hello WolfY,

IMHO, the calibration feature is more important than self-centering feature. This is because it enables more sophisticated manipulation like a manual mode of camera. 'Automatic' is a good feature but it can't cope with all the situations.

Got your point. Will consider that.
cbwx34, don't jump on me

If Tormek decide to make a new knife jig, I want to suggest "the calibration feature"

I think that not only self-centering but also calibration feature are necessary. Because asymmetric bevel(flat grind) or uneven surface of the blade can disable the self-centering.

This can be found not only in knives, which are made very roughly, but also in factory knives produced in the U.S.

Mmmmm/ Lets see. Self centering is the most desirable feature we can ask. That will be good for 99% of the knifes.
Calibration of the jig is yet another feature the is very specific and will probably make the jig even more sophisticated at a very high cost. Money, weight, and ease of usage.
"uneven surface of the blade can disable the self-centering." Depend on the self centering design of cause. Do you have an idea for self centering that collided with uneven surface?

I wonder how much would you guys be prepared to pay for a self centering jig or system?

Rick's explanation couldn't be more accurate. He nailed it perfectly and you got it right. Nice job.
As for sharpening pizza slicer? Did you get it perfectly round with the platform?

Hunter and Wolfy thanks for presenting your great ideas. 

Half turn of the M12 thread with default pitch 1.75 mm will change the bevel angle by almost 0.7 degrees. I have assumed 200 mm stone, 20 degrees bevel angle and 133 mm blade protrusion.

Jan

Thanks Jan for the exact calculation. I think it will only do good for the uneven angle of the knife jig After a couple of times I guess it will be easy to learn toward what direction to turn the knife.

Great Idee but for my Solution is inconvenient to change the Site of the Knife.

You have to unscrew every Time the Bolt of one End to change the Ball Joint at 180°.

Why unscrew? The half turn of the thread (while flipping side) of the jig will not effect too much. You can also check the real angle on each side and decide to what direction make the half turn, compensating for the jig error.

So I just had to...

And I just have to... 

Why two rods?

Rick

To pass the USB legs

So I just had to...

Got an idea how to solve the hitting the USB problem.
Will post it later after sketching it up.

This solution will hit the USB leg, so I guess it is OK only for short knifes.

How would you deal with curved point or long knives?

Use a 36*4 belt sander for wood. Works great for flattening edge etc. Not realy good for thinning as thinning is to hard on small machines. Depends on how many thinning projects you have of cause. I use angle grinder to thin. it is fast, but you need to cool the knife all the time. Not easy especially if you are not very comf. with the grinder. regular good belt grinder with all the knife jigs for that purpose will take you to other levels and costs.

How to thin correctly is a constant question with not really good/ practical/ not expensive/ easy to do, solutions.

Ken thanks for your kind words.

The small USB is not enough for the long knives. Common problem to every knife sharpener.
I believe Tormek see it as a small market and not worth making a long one too. It will not fit the machine box.

truflog, you can go to any workshop that deal with SS and ask them to weld it for you. Remember to measure the SS rod so it is not over 12mm. also explain that it is essential that the rod will not bend when welding ( minor bending is OK). Not need to over weld it cause then it will bend. Not much force is put on the USB. 46cm long. 20cm legs. No thread.

Good luck.

Hej troflog,

Not 100% if I understand but to me it seems like you are clamping the knife jig in the middle of the knife. Try to clamp it about 5~7cm from the tip so you have about same distance from jig gard to the tip and the edge. Then when you sharpen you have to both lift and pull the handle so you are at about same spot (angle wise)on the stone.
Is this knife 180mm as indicated on the site?

This VDO I made on long butcher knife with about same characteristics as yours but 310mm long. I'm using a specially made USB for that long knifes.
https://youtu.be/YiDGR7DnUt0
Hope it will help you a little.