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Nice. Where do you get this pivot jig?

We considered the felt wheel because we wanted a honing "base" more pliant than paper wheels to better polish the bevels for a smoother cut.

I had been cautious about felt since we saw in one meat plant where they use a felt wheel at high RPM, that honing/deburring on the felt wheel compromises edge retention - details are in this thread on the BESS forum http://www.bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=237 ; a Meat News article about our meat plant research is also on the BESS forum.

Felt wheel manufacturers do not make 10" split laps at all, while the 8" felt split laps they make are all too narrow to use for knife honing.
But when it dawned upon me that I can cut the slots in the felt similar to the slotted paper wheel, we re-discovered the felt for honing.
Felt has some attributes that make it unique compared to paper or leather wheels.

Most Interesting thread at "bessex" forum. I signed up and will follow.

Can you tell what kind of felt is used to make the wheel? Or where can I get it? Is there many different felt materials that differ? , widt, Prefered RPM, etc...

Did you check their honing method. E.g, angle, pressure, and other characteristics?

This is great Wootz,

I just got a high speed grinder with 2 speeds (1450/2850) exactly for this reason. Haven't assembly it yet.
I have 2 pcs of 25mm MDF not ready for use yet. Do you think it is as good as felt for this purpose?

Sorry I didn't add all information.
It happens mostly with long 12" knifes. Not a lot of water, but still some that gets to the drive wheel to make it slip and annoy me.
It has nothing to do with the water level. I tend to have the wheel about 1/2~1cm in the water.
No traveling with water or stone on the machine.
Also I always sharpen against the wheel, making the water to run on the knife.

Today I made the new USB with 5dgrs tip. Will eventually true the wheel accordingly. That will have 2 effects. Hopefully
1. Water will drip back to water trough "automatically".
2. No need to take of the leather wheel so the knife handle will go free.

As I'm sharpening many knives till I have 5~10 pcs ready for honing, I take of the leather honing wheel.
Then I put the leather wheel back and hone all the knives in a butch.

What bothered me was the water sipping on the rubber drive wheel and make the motor to slipp.
Lately I was tipping the machine a little to the left and the problem disappeared.

No problem to get used to it, sharpening with the USB tilted a little, as I concentrate on the knife and the sharpening.
Brain/ hands get used to it very fast.

If measuring on the Primary bevel, e.g the blade and it is not straight but have an angle like in your case, I deduct the degrs from the reading like you did. I don't measure it so precisely but know that for kitchen knives it is normally about 1.5dgrs/ side.
Exactly like explains in the Tormek bible + self thinking/ understanding 

Ken,

Wolfgang just answered me. Yes it is great idea with the DF-250. No pressure. Just let the wheel do it's work.
Would be nice to make a USB for the side of the wheel too.
On the draw board already

Can that be a good idea?
Will the Diamond wheel work with hard metals like Cobalt?

Attached the PDF instead of the PNG by mistake:)

P.S. did anyone noticed that the USB support taken from the BGM-100 set is little larger btw the legs by about 2mm?
Yeh, it caused me some problems as I used it as welding jig for the large USB I made.

Nice concept. I have drawn a block for same purpose but with very long (21cm| 8.5") legs, so I can have the block on the vertical side. Using a USB locally made with 46cm|18" long jig support (that I use for long time now).
The Idea was that I could stay on same spot when sharpening just by moving the hole support on the horizontal level and then adjusting the height for angel changes I need.

CB,

Did some knife sharpening with tilted machine after the post
Looked little strange but felt OK as I look primarily on the water/ knife contact with the wheel.
Another benefit is that the water drips out of the machine and not on or towards the leather wheel. It is also good if you take of the leather wheel for handle clearance.
I got a good feeling about it. Will make a 5dgrs tilted USB a.s.a.p.

Don't worry about pushing me with the project. I will always have some projects on my head. Not only in our field.

Did some measurements today. Will make a USB with 5dgrs angle and true the stone accordingly. I wonder how it will feel to sharpen in an angle and not symmetrically for both sides (motion wise).
As for T-2 parts. I will get some T-2's next shipment and will be able to test and try. Still don't like the Magnet behind the knife and that the knife is absorbing the metal particles from the sharpening. Would rather use the SG/SB stones with water.

All my projects are not instead of the Self centering Jig, cause they are less dependent on others help.

Ken, I thought that u experimented with felt wheel instead of the leather. Got it now.

Interesting alt. for the leather wheel. But if you already on a material that is not restricted by the form like leather why not trying to give an angle so the knife handle will be free from touching the stone?
Also I was playing with the thoughts of making a angled USB and accordingly true the stone. I was thinking of 10dgrs.

Stop the press! 

You've made a self-centering knife jig?

More info?

Please?

If you're looking to make money from it, and can't share, I understand, but either way, don't keep it to yourself.  It's very much needed.

Edit:  Ah... I found in another thread you are looking to manufacture this, so probably can't share... hopefully it will come back to the top of your to-do list.

OK OK. I'll look for someone to help me with the new prototype. I'm pretty much excited too to make it real.

[Wolfy]

Glad to see you back, Wolfy

How is your self-centering knife jig project? I guess you already use a working prototype for yourself.

Thanks Wootz. The self-centering knife jig project was Ok till the guy that helped me started to change things without advising me and the final jig was OK but not as I wanted. Though it led for the 2nd gen of development and stopped at the drawing board as I didn't have time for it and the guy is "not so interested" anymore.
I think the 2nd gen is also easier to manufacture but I don't have a partner to get it done now.