Messages

Can't agree more with what cbwx wrote.
The Tormek is not made for steel removal/ grinding. For that you need dedicated tools. Either bench grinder or belt grinder (my pref.).
I'm working often on location and need to do some steel removal like straightening the edge, even giving the first grind to the primary edge before sharpening, or grinding the bolster and take with me a regular belt sander for woodworking purposes. It doe's the work perfectly. Using the 80/120 grit belts.
It is also very good for round pizza knives

An Angle grinder that is more common to have can do the job too. But you have to know how to handle it safely and secure the knife on a bench or bench wise.

Can't agree more with what cbwx wrote.
The Tormek is not made for steel removal/ grinding. For that you need dedicated tools. Either bench grinder or belt grinder (my pref.).
I'm working often on location and need to do some steel removal like straightening the edge, even giving the first grind to the primary edge before sharpening, or grinding the bolster and take with me a regular belt sander for woodworking purposes. It doe's the work perfectly. Using the 80/120 grit belts.
It is also very good for round pizza knives

Year ago a client sharpened a knife with SG-250. he complained that nothing happened and there is probably something wrong with the stone.
I asked him to come in with the stone and knife.
When he pulled out the knife it was ceramic knife. So I put it on my T-8 with the SB-250 and it sharpened it perfectly.
Client went home with a new SB-250 stone

How is your experience with the SB and ceramic?

Well done, WolfY!!! I could not get the first version to play. The second version plays perfectly. The English subtitles really help. Very good information.

Ken

Thanks Ken,

I deleted the first as it was without sub's and wrong edition.
Later I uploaded this one.

https://youtu.be/-k8vG7d4EMI

Video link is not working for me at this time.  Was there going to be a different one posted?  How did CB watch it?

Rick

Updated now with new VDO
https://youtu.be/YiDGR7DnUt0

Thanks CBWX,

I will take time and add translation another day.
The main purpose was to show the longer USB in action.

Sorry it is in Hebrew. It is made for my clients and to show the larger USB.
https://youtu.be/YiDGR7DnUt0
Enjoy
Corrected.

[But]

Thanks cbwx34 and Wolfie for your replies. Things are clearer for me :

- A real scandinavian grind (zero grind) can't be properly sharpened with a Tormek.

I wouldn't jump into this conclusion that fast. If you want a "0" grind E.g around 10dgrs on each side all the way to apex, you can do it. But, you blade and edge will be weak and could brake easily. Sharpening such grind, producing a micro bevel makes the edge stronger and I don't think you would feel any difference in the usage.
Just do the micro bevel very light and easy one pass on each side.

Interesting. wonderful. didn't know about this erasers.  I wonder if I can get them here?
Will check a.s.a.p.

Thanks for the info.

Ken,

I've stopped using my stone grader long ago. I've found out the stone get clogged by the steel of the blade and gets smooth after a few seconds. Spending the time to change the stone grade just to be able to take of more steel takes more time then just sharpening one or 2 passes extra.
Although using the fine side could sometimes make the stone smoother then it is when not using it at all. I don't know how much tough. Never really measured.

I wonder how many use the stone grader and how often?

What is others experience?

Sharpening a scandi grinded knife should be same as sharpening all knifes till the point that the sharpened edge after some sharpenings will move up on the blade and you will have to regrind the blade again (same as thinning). You will probably either see it or feel it as the shoulder will make the cutting more hard and not as smooth as it used to be.
I wouldn't recommend the Tormek for regrinding the scandi grind. But if no other alternative and only on occasions then remember you will get a hollow scandi and it will tear on the stone a lot. Plus will take some time to accomplish.

Scandi grind is used on most knives that are thick (3+mm) and need to have a primeri grind that will not have a cutting resistant behind the primary edge.

It was my "mistake".
As the guy that welded the rods, made them to bent a little and that changed the distance. Maybe he didn't wait till they cooled down before taking of the jig.
I made a new one and now it's perfect fit.

Fascinating. Thanks.

Thanks cb,
Thought it would be something like that.
Do you think cutting the collar to half with angle consideration for the knife gig angle would work? Passing the USB legs allowing for long knives?

I'm little puzzled with the use of Felt for deburring compared to the slow turning leather wheel.
Could you summarize the pro's and con's in comparison?
Does it save time?
Are you sure it does not affect the apex at all?
If you compare it to sharpening the knife at about 10 dgrs first and then raising to the required apex (let say 16~18dgrs) giving a thin shoulder above the apex.
For me being out to the clients place it is not very practical to bring a bench grinder too.