Messages

I do the same as Ken ... but I do it so I can wipe down the machine inside and out.

Rich

And, if you add in the US-105 universal support with micro adjust, that's another $48.

$184 - SG-250
    66 - EZlock shaft
    89 - TT-50
    48 - US-105
-------
$387

I use an angle grinder on my mower & edger blades.  Works well & is fast. 

Today, I was sharpening some new chisels.  Setting the primary bevel for the first time takes some time (they are carbon steel, so I didn't want to start with a high speed grinder).  Even though I was often refreshing the stone with the SP-650 stone grader, it was taking a really, really long time. 

So, I tried Ken's recommendation of using the TT-50 to freshen the stone.   What a difference that made !!  I was able to get done in time for dinner.

So, Ken, thank you for setting me straight.

Kind regards,
Rich

Rob's right.   

Rich

Hermann,

No mill yet ... next big buy though !

I do like that idea though.  Will keep it in mind.

Rich

Ken,

If you do indeed lose your pin, let me know & I will make you one.  My metal lathe is now up & running...

Kind regards,
Rich

Dorian,

Many years ago, I didn't remove it from the machine or even empty the water trough.  That was a mistake and I ended up replacing the shaft as a result (it was the older one that is not stainless steel like the new ones).

Now, I pull the grinding stone off the machine and store it upright to dry completely.  I hang mine from a ½" screw which I use as a peg.

I recommend this as it does two things :  it lets the machine and all that area really dry out, and it allows the stone to dry out also.

I have found that it takes longer for the SG stone to get up to speed now though as it has to get saturated with water, and that takes 2 or 3 minutes.  But, not a huge deal.

Good luck,
Rich

I use white lithium grease.   Works greatly.

Both are awesome & you'll love them also..

Kind regards,
Rich

Jan,

I'd always thought as you that a 6-point grind was as in your first picture.  It provides even more space for removal of the swarf.

I don't understand the value of the SPA.  I don't know how that helps with cutting. 

Any thoughts?

Kind regards,
Rich

Ken,

I don't know if there are any US-made drill bits any more. 

The best new ones I have are German-made cobalt bits (got them in Singapore to have a good set of metric ones).  Really, really good !

And, as any machinist will tell you (even the amateur ones like me), you need at least 4 types :  metric, imperial, numbered, & lettered.  Oh yeah, and for woodworking, you also need Forstner bits :  but that's a whole different sharpening approach.

Kind regards,
Rich

Nice job !

Multiple facets are important, even when widening an existing hole, & especially with metal. 

There is a very good article on this at :  http://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html

An excerpt on facets is : 

Multi-faceted geometry generates the least amount of heat of all the drill point patterns. In comparing two drills of the same diameter, the multi-faceted drill features 150% less thrust and 70% less heat than a conventional drill.

In fact, some older machinists added a tertiary facet for even more relief. 

I wouldn't skip the step of adding the secondary facet.

Kind regards,
Rich

Page 13 of the manual discusses this as shown in the excerpt below.



Kind regards,
Rich