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Also, on the T8, the water tray seems to be bigger to catch more falling drops, and the lift for the water tray is really cool !

Kind regards,
Rich

I get them from Amazon.  With Prime, there is free shipping.

Ken,

I have found the Tormek profile labels to be a great way to quickly resharpen a tool.  When I use a jig other than the SVD-185/186, I simply write the jig's designation (e.g., SVS-50) on the label also.

The ones I use are from Tormek and look like the picture below.  I tried using a label maker and taping them onto the tool, but they always came off.  The Tormek ones stick on very well to the grommet.



Kind regards,
Rich

Ken,

Thank you.  I haven't tried sharpening carbide bits just yet, but recently re-watched Alan Holtham's video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSUa1iFUzkM), and am going to venture down that path soon.  I'll let you know how it goes.

Kind regards,
Rich

Paul,

I've read thru all the commentary and am adding a few thoughts.

As it regards the DBS-22, it is a truly wonderful jig.  I've used it to sharpen my bits, and find that process to be one that is repeatable and the time required is certainly acceptable.  I often work with small pieces of exotic woods like burls.  When drilling into these, tear out is very bad.  Working with a sharp bit is crucial and the DBS-22 never fails to perform.

And, I must say that the 4-point facet you showed in your photographs looks quite good.  Great work !!


I suspect that the issue you are facing is not with the sharpening technique, but one of the following :

• pre-drilling the hole with a smaller bit first, and lubricating the bit whilst using it, or
• using the wrong drill bit steel type.

I use carbide steel bits when drilling steel.  High Speed Steel (HSS) is good, especially for wood turning, but carbide is what is meant for cutting steel.  In fact, metal lathes use carbide bits rather than HSS.

But, if you don't have a set of carbide bits, then pre-drill, and lubricate the bit as others have mentioned.  And, you'll probably have to re-sharpen them when done.

Kind regards,
Rich

Oh, and by the way, this past week I went to use a fractional drill bit and found it woefully dull.  So, I took 4 evenings last week and sharpened them all using the DBS-22 Drill Bit Sharpening Jig. 

I started at the ½" one, and went down from there.  The first few went slowly, taking 20 minutes or so.  And somewhere around the 5th one I had to go back to re-grind the primary bevel as I had over-ground the secondary bevel.  But, I persevered and got better with each one.  By the time I got around to the ¼" ones, I was sharpening each one in 5 minutes or less.

During the process, I came across a couple that I had already sharpened with the DBS-22.  Re-sharpening those was about one or two minutes each.  Definitely repeatable.

My confidence in using the DBS-22 is greatly improved, and now I think I can attack my metric bits and complete them in a much faster manner.  Alas, there are also numbered and lettered bits after that.

[When you are learning something new, first master it using the method taught.]

Two questions come to mind:

1) Which method is correct?

2) Which should a beginner learn?

I think a beginner should learn the orthodox Tormek method. Once proficient with it, the beginner is in a much better place to decide if he wishes to explore other paths.

Ken, in one of the Fine Woodworking podcasts, they were discussing sharpening (of chisels).  There was a discussion about picking and choosing methods.  A strong opinion was expressed (and supported by everyone on the show) that :

When you are learning something new, first master it using the method taught.  You can then move on to a new method if you wish.  But if you do, but then master the new method before moving on to an even different one.  It is only after you have mastered a few methods that you can make your own.

An example of this would be something like sharpening of plane blades.  The folks at FWW do advocate sharpening the plane's primary bevel on a Tormek as it is fast.  However, they also advocate sharpening the secondary (or micro) bevel on Japanese waterstones (up to 8,000 or higher grit).  Hence, the mixing of methods.

I'm not a user of wood planes, so I can't speak to the validity of this approach.  But, I do believe their argument to master a method is the right one.

The Tormek method is one that :

• is time tested,
• has world-wide acceptance, and
• is a repeatable approach.

Repeatability is a big deal.  This cannot be stressed enough, so I will say it again.  Repeatability is a really big deal.  If you get a tool that is sharpened a certain way you will learn to use it in a manner that matches the edge.  As you progress, you will start developing muscle memory in this way of work.  Then you have mastered the tool and you can start thinking about the art.  Resharpening the tool should not require the relearning of how to use the tool.

For the shooting sports, a wise coach in trap shooting has said :

        Those who think do not know; those who know do not think.

When you know what sharp is and how to get it, you don't think about how to get that done.  You adjust according to parameters such as steel type, use for the tool, etc.  But you are not having to re-learn how to sharpen every time. 

Master the Tormek method and you'll go a long way in your woodworking.  Then, you can determine if further honing is required ...

Kind regards,
Rich

Ken, I would add one more thing.  If you haven't upgraded from the SVD-185 Gouge Sharpening Jig to the SVD-186, then you simply MUST do that.

Ok, ya'll gotta stop talking like I'm smart or something.  What is a "goniometer" ?

Kind regards,
Rich

Jan, where do you get your lasers ?

Kind regards,
Rich

Won't having rounded corners, just make the stone narrower? (for sharpening purposes)
Trying to remember what JF said about minimum stone size.  Because I am thinking that maybe one could make a spacer and use a T-4 wheel, with rounded corners on the T-7 and the spacer could give clearance on both sides of the wheels, for unusual profile knives.

I recently listened to a Fine Woodworking podcast where they discussed the advantages of rounding the surface of the grinding wheel.  They advocate that this makes sharpening easier & faster. 

The serrated knife I have is flat on one side.  I reground that side & it works wonderfully.

Ken,

I agree :  consistency is more important than accuracy for me. 

Kind regards,
Rich

You guys are WAY too scientific for me !  I dump water in the trough to the full line, add then more as it gets absorbed into the stone.  When it stops going down, I get to work.  I am too lazy to measure out the water.

Heck, I simply wanted a drain that would let out ½ the water or so.  Just enough that it didn't splash as I clumsily let the trough down.

But, maybe that's why I'm a wood turner and not a furniture maker !!

Kind regards,
Rich

... then you are in the same camp as me.   Mine is 16 or 17 years old and runs like a champ.  No pasture for this stallion !

But, I have made some improvements to mine that I recommend highly :

• the shaft was upgraded to stainless steel with the EzyLock nut (MSK-250)
• the universal support was replaced to have one with the micro adjust (US-105)
• replaced the truing tool, upgrading to the TT-50
• glued a rare earth magnet to the outside of the water tray to collect as many iron filings as possible

I like the way the T8 allows the water tray to be lowered, making it easier to empty the water without spilling it.  I am thinking about some way to put a spigot and drain pipe onto my water tray so I can drain it (at least somewhat) before removing the tray.  If anyone has an idea, please post a reply.

Kind regards,
Rich