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Multiple facets are important, even when widening an existing hole, & especially with metal. 

There is a very good article on this at :  http://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html

An excerpt on facets is : 

Multi-faceted geometry generates the least amount of heat of all the drill point patterns. In comparing two drills of the same diameter, the multi-faceted drill features 150% less thrust and 70% less heat than a conventional drill.

In fact, some older machinists added a tertiary facet for even more relief. 

I wouldn't skip the step of adding the secondary facet.

Kind regards,
Rich

Page 13 of the manual discusses this as shown in the excerpt below.



Kind regards,
Rich

I've not seen one of the old SuperGrind's in blue.  Mine is the 2000, and it is green.  Were the 1200's blue ?  Was this possibly some special order with that wheel type ?

Kind regards,
Rich

Hermann makes a great point about pocket knives.  I use the Japanese stone for my pocket knives for that reason (& because it makes for a sharper edge).

Kind regards,
Rich

Dave,

There are some real experts on this forum, and you can learn much from them :  I know I have and still do.  I do have one additional thought though as it regards lighting. 

I added an LED light which is also a magnifying lens.  This is a great boon for me as I can see much finer details than I normally would.  I'm 53 with bifocals, and I wear a face mask when wood turning, and have to resharpen often. I don't take my mask off when resharpening so the magnifying lens to help their whenever I have a question. 

Good luck and don't look back with regrets. 

Kind regards,
Rich

Dave,

It seems like you have finally pleased Tormekamada (the god of sharpening), and she is smiling on you.

Rich

OK, Hermann.  That sound cool what you've done with the scissors jig.  Pictures please !!

Rich

I have great respect for Ken, & he has been referencing his Edge On Up for ages.  He is a great resource for product testing :   Our own version of Consumer Reports. 

I've just not seen how it would be used to make me a better sharpener.  Alas, Grepper has enlightened me.

So, I'm interested in which model of Edge On Up tester that you bought

Ken,

I use task-oriented lighting on my lathe to get up closer & brighter.  Also, I can aim it where I need it. 

I use CFL or LED bulbs as they don't get hot & are less likely to cause fires with the accumulated wood dust. 

I've not seen an issue with flicker on either.

Kind regards,
Rich

Really interesting, & really surprising!!

Jan,

I inherited a number of tools from my father when he passed on.  He took Yankee thrift to the limit !

In a back part of one toolbox are two old knives that my father sharpened away but never threw away.  I've a picture below of two that got relegated to marking knives (I guess).

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Kind regards,
Rich

If I need a very accurate center that is smoothly cut, then I use my mini metal lathe.  Works amazingly well. 

Otherwise I use the method I was taught for sharpening TIG bits using a drill and a bench grinder.  A picture is below.   By revolving the bit with the drill whilst sharpening, it keeps the point well centered. 




Apologies to Tormek about posting a solution not using your system, but I couldn't find a way to send a PM to Jim with the picture attached. 

Jan,

I have the DBS Jig & find it a worthwhile investment.   But what intrigues me about your idea is for bits too large to fit in the DBS Jig (>22 mm).   Have you tried any that large ?

Kind regards,
Rich

Ken,

Sounds like an opportunity for the KenJig developer...

Rich

[repeatability]

Do not sell handheld sharpening short.

Ken,

I am a HUGE fan of repeatability.   With the cutting edge consistently the same, I get consistent results when turning.  So I'm not a fan of freehand sharpening. 

The Tormek jigs make repeatability possible.  I have great luck when using them.

Kind regards,
Rich