Messages

I do it the same way as Wootz, but that's just because I didn't think there was a different way !   And, like Grepper, I will use the edges, but on the ends, not the sides. 

Thank you for bringing this question up.

Rich

Ega,

I have a 15-year old Tormek T-2000.  I've replaced the shaft to be the EZ-lock shaft primarily because my older one was rusted too badly.  After I got the new one in place, I really learned the value of the EZ-lock nut.

On the grindwheel side, the EZ lock nut can be released as cbwx34 noted :  grab the grindwheel and twist it in an clockwise manner (whilst also holding the honing wheel).  Note :  this is the opposite of the "righty tighty, lefty loosey" rule.

I have added the profiled leather wheel, so I have to remove that using the big nut, and then remove the shaft using a wrench.  Not a big deal.

Rich

I don't know the pitch, but it is pretty low (I'm thinking in terms of threads per inch).  Not something I've seen before. 

Rich

I built a Rose Engine lathe for ornamental turning.  I am currently using it to make some shaving brushes.  A prototype of the shaving brush's handle is shown below :

The Rose Engine I've built uses a fly cutter.  These are made from 3/16" diameter rod, and are short.  Two of my cutters are shown below :

The fly cutter is mounted in a cutting frame (yes, I had to make that too).  The cutting frame and fly cutter are shown below :

I've been trying to think of a way to sharpen these.  To date, I've held them in a hand-held drill, and sharpened them by using the drill to rotate the cutter whilst running along the grindstone.  This leaves a lot to be desired in the way of accuracy and cleanliness of the cut.

I was going to build a variation on a goniostat, but this is a bit complicated, and is meant to sharpen the tool on a flat surface.  Adapting it to the Tormek would be difficult.

Today, I came upon this idea.  It is a two-piece jig that I made today on my metal lathe.  The pieces are shown below separated, and together :

The rod is ¾" diameter, hot-rolled steel, and the collar is aluminum.


The calculations used for sharpening the cutter are :

When the cutter is mounted in the jig and held against the wheel, this is how it looks :

The measured angle is exactly as needed, and this works wonderfully.


if you want more details, please contact me.

Rich

[Please note: I have not tried this approach with knives. It may or may not be the best.]

Ken,

I recognize that this reply is a bit off the knife topic, but wanted to add it due to your note about high speed steel (HSS) and the black wheel (SB-250).

My experience has shown that reshaping a tool where the cutting edge is more than ⅛" (2-3 mm) wide is REALLLY slow on the Tormek wet grinder.  If I need to reshape an edge on something like a skew or a point tool :

• I reshape it on the high speed grinder using the BGM-100 to hold the universal support bar (USB), and hold the tool using the appropriate Tormek jig.  Note :  I do stop often to cool the tool in water.
• Then, I sharpen the tool on the Tormek grinder.

This takes me well under 10 minutes, even with setup. 

When I tried to reshape such tools on the Tormek grinder, it could take upwards of an hour.  I highly recommend the BGM-100 when reshaping.  It has been a worthwhile investment for lathe tools.   

Please note:   I have not tried this approach with knives.   It may or may not be the best. 

Kind regards,
Rich

PekkaK,

If you replace the drive wheel, I recommend you also replace the drive shaft.  Ken mentioned it with his comment about the quick release nut.  That is a great improvement, and the new shaft is stainless steel.  I would beg that the shaft you have is probably rusted, so replacing it would be good also. 

Rich

[Problem Statement :]

Bob,

You and a number of other Tormekers got me thinking about how to make an easy way to calculate non-standard measurements on the Tormek.

Problem Statement :  If you want to quickly calculate how to grind an angle for sharpening, and the "normal" tools (e.g., the TTS-100 Turning Tool Setter) don't fit the bill, how would you proceed ?

I found this to be the case when sharpening a 4mm veiner.  The 55mm projection worked fine using the B hole, but that won't be the case as I shorten the tool over time.  Eventually, I won't be able to provide a 55mm projection.


Discussion :  Certainly, the typical approach is to use the WM-200 AngleMaster to set the angle, and play around with the gap between the Universal Support Bar (USB) and the grindstone.  But that is a bit cumbersome, and I'm not a big fan of the WM-200.  I find it a bit clunky to use.


Proposed Solution :  I took the calculation methods that others like Wootz, Jan, and CBRX have outlined and programmed them into a web tool for this use.  You can get to it via my site, http://SharpeningHandbook.info.  I've put links in on the knife sharpening pages (it is the little calculator icon), or you can go directly there via this link :  http://sharpeninghandbook.info/indexCalcProj.html .  (I added a link at the bottom of that page that outlines the methodology I use, but here is the direct link to that :  http://sharpeninghandbook.info/indexCalcProjDetails.html .)


Initial Field Testing Results :  I tested this approach on a tool I was using for my Ornamental Turning Lathe.  I needed a cutter with a 60° included cutting angle (30° bevel angle).  This cutter is made from ⅛" round rod stock.  Small stuff and difficult to handle in a traditional manner.  (You can see what this cutter looks like at this link :  it is the small triangular piece of steel mounted in the brass ferrule, at the far right part of the picture.  http://www.billooms.com/Resources/OTCutting/HCF.jpg ).

I set the projection at 40mm and the distance from the USB to the wheel at 8mm (as that is what was calculated for my grindstone diameter).

I tried to use the SVS-50 Multi Jig to hold the rod, but found the short projection made this difficult due to my need to rotate the rod some where between 180° and 270°.  The SVS-50 kept hitting the grindstone.  So, I resorted to holding the cutter in a round collar with a 7/16" internal diameter. 

After sharpening the rod to a point, then grinding off the top side so the flat came to the point, I found that the angle produced was pretty darn close to 60° !!  Frankly, it is good enough for what I need to do.


My Ask :  I am seeking feedback on this approach.  It is different from Wootz', and that is purposeful.  His approach seems great for a production knife sharpener, but this is meant to be a little more generic in nature.


Kind regards,
Rich


Note Regarding Sharping the Cutter in the Future :  I will soon be building a goniostat to hold the cutter when sharpening on the Tormek.  Mine will be similar to the one shown here :  https://i.pinimg.com/564x/0e/16/05/0e16059c5c9ef63c1420518c09669585.jpg .  More on that when I get it built and tested ...

Ken let me use his SJ stone before I bought one.  I used his Nagura stone & it worked greatly. 

I've not gotten around to buying a Nagura stone for my SJ stone, but I find that the stone grader works well. 

Rich

Carl,

I've sharpened tools like punches using a drill.   I mount the punch in the drill and then spin it whilst holding the edge against the grinding wheel.  (Here's a link to this discussion:  https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3229.msg18889#msg18889 ).

Could you sharpen the cutting wheel by holding it in a rotating tool like a Dremel or a flex shaft grinder like the Foredom ?

Rich

Mike,

You can probably do it by hand with practice,  but a few thoughts come to my mind :

1. How much practice it will take to get such a perfectly ground, 4-facet grind, &
2. How to ensure you keep that skill unless you practice it often.

Yes, the DBS-22 is a bit of $, but I've found it to be excellent at sharpening my bits, and I use drill bits on all manner of woods, as well as mild steel and other metals. 

I will be looking to learn to use a grinder for a tertiary grind and a secondary point angle (see also Joe Mazoff's article at http://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html) for larger bits (especially when I'm drilling on the drill press).

I tried putting an SPA on some carbide bits for my sister :  she's a locksmith and uses them for hardened steel.  No feedback yet on that.

I do have to hand sharpen my Forstner bits, but use the Tormek jig for all the twist drills.

Rich

Rick,

I found that the sharpened drill bits caused less blowout, especially on burl wood.

Kind regards,
Rich

Rick,

My father-in-law once used one of my chisels to open a paint can.  Even my wife was appalled.

From that point on, I made sure he had a paint can opener nearby !!

Kind regards,
Rich

I use mine often.  Very easy to use & fast.

Rich

When you post, you can use an HTLM tag extension to show the picture smaller, but allow for clicking on it to see the real size.  The tag extension is shown below (I added a space after the brace ([) so the HTML code would show.

[ img width=1000] picture link [ /img]

The number (1000 in this case) is the number of pixels. 

Alternatively, you could specify the height instead of the width.

Rich

Stig,

I did not take it negatively.  Rather; I thought it was funnily true.

Kind regards,
Rich