Messages

Rick,

Is that the drill press version of a radial arm saw (which, there is a good reason you don't find sold new any more !) ?

Rich

I think it is Dutchman's hat !  Carrying off that look these days makes one my hero !

Rich

I have the BGM-100 also, and it is mounted per Tormek's instructions.  As when grinding in the vertical position, the BGM-100 works to have the wheel grinding towards you.

I've found it a very useful way to reshape tools when big changes are needed.  Then, when I move back to the Tormek for sharpening, the only thing I've noticed is the wheel diameter change (8" to 10").

Please post some pictures if you are experiencing issues.

Kind regards,
Rich

SADW,

Would love to have access the accumulated information you've compiled from the manufacturers.

Kind regards,
Rich

I agree.   The microbevel only does two things :

1. It makes sharpening at a hit grit level (i.e., on the SJ stone) faster,
2. It makes resharpening faster as there is less metal to grind (again, on the SJ tone)

Good luck,
Rich

FYI, I've catalogued all the typical angles for various chisels & for typical uses at SharpeningHandbook.info.

Rich

I grind the primary bevel on an SB or SG stone, & put a microbevel on using an SJ stone.  This seems to work well on my kitchen knives as I can touch up the sharpening quickly.

Rich

Well, you know, I have a hobby metal lathe (7" x 14", from Grizzly), and I've made a number of parts for sharpening on it.  Probably something to think about ....

That lathe of yours looks like it is really solid !

Rich

Rick,

In the 2nd photo which shows the Tormek, I see a metal lathe in the background.  Have you tried to sharpen your lathe tools on the Tormek ?  If so, any luck / thoughts / guidance you can share ?

Kind regards,
Rich

Youngbin,

I over-oiled my leather wheel at first and had to scrape it clean again.  It is a very resilient bugger, and has been working greatly ever since.  Don't fret :  We all have to learn.  Some of us just take longer.

Rich

Bill Boehme recommended (on the AAW forum) that I remake this using parts from the SVD-186 (or the older version, SVD-185).  I have to thank Bill for that recommendation!!   I made this today, and it works amazingly well ... much better than what I'd originally made. 

This approach allows for much better control when sharpening. 

I broke my metric tap (6mm-1.0), so I had to use a screw in the end in lieu of using the Tormek hand screw.  That's why there is a standard screw shown.

This does open up a whole set of ideas for me ...

Rich

I do it the same way as Wootz, but that's just because I didn't think there was a different way !   And, like Grepper, I will use the edges, but on the ends, not the sides. 

Thank you for bringing this question up.

Rich

Ega,

I have a 15-year old Tormek T-2000.  I've replaced the shaft to be the EZ-lock shaft primarily because my older one was rusted too badly.  After I got the new one in place, I really learned the value of the EZ-lock nut.

On the grindwheel side, the EZ lock nut can be released as cbwx34 noted :  grab the grindwheel and twist it in an clockwise manner (whilst also holding the honing wheel).  Note :  this is the opposite of the "righty tighty, lefty loosey" rule.

I have added the profiled leather wheel, so I have to remove that using the big nut, and then remove the shaft using a wrench.  Not a big deal.

Rich

I don't know the pitch, but it is pretty low (I'm thinking in terms of threads per inch).  Not something I've seen before. 

Rich

I built a Rose Engine lathe for ornamental turning.  I am currently using it to make some shaving brushes.  A prototype of the shaving brush's handle is shown below :

The Rose Engine I've built uses a fly cutter.  These are made from 3/16" diameter rod, and are short.  Two of my cutters are shown below :

The fly cutter is mounted in a cutting frame (yes, I had to make that too).  The cutting frame and fly cutter are shown below :

I've been trying to think of a way to sharpen these.  To date, I've held them in a hand-held drill, and sharpened them by using the drill to rotate the cutter whilst running along the grindstone.  This leaves a lot to be desired in the way of accuracy and cleanliness of the cut.

I was going to build a variation on a goniostat, but this is a bit complicated, and is meant to sharpen the tool on a flat surface.  Adapting it to the Tormek would be difficult.

Today, I came upon this idea.  It is a two-piece jig that I made today on my metal lathe.  The pieces are shown below separated, and together :

The rod is ¾" diameter, hot-rolled steel, and the collar is aluminum.


The calculations used for sharpening the cutter are :

When the cutter is mounted in the jig and held against the wheel, this is how it looks :

The measured angle is exactly as needed, and this works wonderfully.


if you want more details, please contact me.

Rich