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Well, the SVS-50 parts came in today.  The picture below shows what I was trying to say :

• On the left is the original SVS-50 that I already had.  It is setup to use the open seat.
• On the right is the new body.  It is setup with the closed seat that came with my original SVS-50.  (Just putting the closed seat into the new body reminded me that this is a good decision.  I had to flip the seat around 6 or 7 times until I finally figured out how it fits into the body.)

One note :  the parts numbered 1050 (threaded insert) are not needed.  The part numbered 2200 already comes with the inserts.

Overall, this approach will save me time, and it cost me half what it would have cost to buy a new SVS-50.  AND, I am staying with the proven technology of the Tormek jigs !!

Kind regards,
Rich

I use the SVS-50 Multi Jig often, and have come to two conclusions.

Firstly, it is too time consuming to have to switch between the open seat and the closed seat.  So, I went on Advanced Machinery's web site and ordered the parts so I would have two SVS-50 Multi Jigs :  on setup for the open seat, and the other for the closed seat.

The parts I ordered are :

• 2200 Housing (1)
• 7090 Locking Screw (1)
• 5240 Washer (1)
• 1050 Threaded Insert (2, though could probably use only 1)

Once I get the parts, I will post some pictures.


Secondly, I think this jig needs a collar.  I came to that conclusion when using one of the KVM knife jigs with a collar.  The collar was really great to reduce the movement of the jig to the direction where movement should happen, and preventing movement in the wrong direction.

So I've designed the one I show below.  I'm interested in feedback before I go make the parts :

I just realized that I didn't label the black screw going thru the middle.  That will be a hex head, socket cap screw.

The collar would be used to hold the tool tight agains the Universal Support Bar.  My initial thinking is to use this when using the SVS-50 with the open seat.

The idea is that part C moves up and down, but in use, it secures the tool against the bottom of the ring (part A).  This seems more useful than using a long screw to hold the tool there, and this keeps the outer ring round with no projections.  That part seems like it would be useful when rotating the tool that is to be sharpened.

As for size, I was thinking of making part A to be around 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 inches (50mm +/-) in diameter.

I'm interested in thoughts and comments ...

Kind regards,
Rich

The comment by cbwx34 is worth noting.  I switched from the SG stone to the SB stone as I sharpen a lot of turning tools and most of them are HSS.  I also find it works well for the other metals I sharpen.

So, to me, not being able to use the SB stone is a sure reason to use the bigger machine.

Kind regards,
Rich

I definitely agree.  One of the wheels, I believe it is the Japanese water stone, isn't available on the T4.

The T8 is a nice machine !

Rich

Yes, Bill, they do !

Richard,

I must first thank you for this task.  It seems my Spindle Roughing Gouge (SRG) was in worse shape than I'd thought, and this was a good exercise !

Firstly, here are pictures of my BGM-100 setup, as shown beside my 8" high speed grinder.

To sharpen this tool, I used the SVS-50 Multi Jig.  It was setup as shown below.

I used the "B" hold on the TTS-100 to set the distance for the Universal Support Bar from the wheel.  I didn't get a picture of the setup on the 8" high speed grinder, but below is one for the Tormek grinder.  (By the way, those lines on the wheels of the TTS-100 are a great idea I learned on this forum.  It makes it very easy to see when the wheel is turning or not!)

The Spindle Roughing Gouge was setup in the SVS-50 using a 55mm projection as shown below.

Before starting, I flattened the edge of the Spindle Roughing gouge so that the cutting edge was consistent.  This produced a few flat spots, but that allowed me to start from a consistent edge.

After grinding on the 8" high speed grinder, I got a tool grind that is shown below.  It measured around 40°, but I couldn't tell exactly as the burr made the measurement difficult.

One note of use with the BGM-100 :  after the initial grind, the reshaping of the tool's edge made the tool's steel to be ground back around 1/8 to 3/16 inch.  This is significant, so I cooled the Spindle Roughing Gouge, reset the projection to 55mm, and gave it a very light grinding :  just enough to get a smooth edge.  You can see some discoloration.  Seems I was a bit aggressive with the grind.

I cooled it once more, and verified the projection again.  It was good.


Then I moved to the Tormek grinder.  First, I trued the stone (using the TT-50), then ground the edge on the Tormek grinder.  This was a little slow going, so I had to reactivate the grindstone a few times with the stone grader (SP-650).  I honed the inside of the gouge's flute using the profiled leather wheel (I have an older version, but the new one is the LA-120).  I don't hone the outside edge of my Spindle Roughing Gouge as it is for rough turning anyway.

Once finished, the edge looked as shown in the picture below.

The final angle, when measured on the WM-200 Angle Master is 35°.

That is somewhat smaller than the typical angle given by most as optimal (45°), but I've not found this to be problematic.

Here is the label I applied afterwards.

In summary, I would make note of the following :

• When grinding on the high speed grinding wheel, take as light a pass as possible.
• That said, when re-profiling an edge, you will probably find you need to reset the projection a few times.
• When resetting the projection, cool the tool first.  The TTS-100 plastic melts easily (I speak from prior experience).
• When grinding with the SVS-50 jig, it is important to hold the jig's edge against the universal support bar, AND hold the tool against the same bar.  It is easy to have it rise off the universal support bar, so keep attention to this.
• If you want to increase the angle from 35° to a higher number, this can be achieved by shortening the projection.  The TTS-100 only goes down to 55mm, but you could certainly try something like 45mm and see where that gets you.

Final note :  the settings I used here for sharpening this are on my on-line handbook :  SharpeningHandbook.info.

Good luck,
Rich

I'm going to be doing some sharpening tomorrow.  I'll make some tests & pictures to report back no later than Sunday.

Rich

Ton,

Thank you for the recommendation.  I added that link as I too find it to be a very useful document.

Kind regards,
Rich

I've added two new additions recently that may be of use to people :

• Knives (Kitchen, Pocket, and Woodworking)
• Twist drill bits

Special thanks to Ton Nillesen (the Dutchman) for allowing his guides to be put on the site. It is a great reference and definitely helpful to Tormek users. 

Kindly let me know if you see any errors.  Also, if you have differing opinions (I expect them for the knives part), do let me know.  I only ask that you also let me know why you feel that way.

Oh yeah, still waiting for some microscopic pictures of ground edges ...

Kind regards,
Rich

SADW,

Have you tried LinuxCNC ?

Kind regards,
Rich

Ken,

This is funny :  I have an unused Raspberry Pi 3 that I was just recently thinking of setting up in my shop.  The Raspberry Pi runs a variation of BSD Linux (called Raspbian, if I remember correctly). 

But what is equally a good solution in this realm is LinuxCNC.  This runs on really old PCs and is easier to manage & maintain.  Response times are similar from what I've experienced.  And LinuxCNC is also a variant of BSD Linux.

So the question truly is :  does the scope software run on Linux.  If so, this would be a REALLY cheap solution!

Kind regards,
Rich

Rich Colvin is compiling a sharpening handbook which will be a vsluable reference. Pairing this tablet and reference with a USB microscope would be a powerful and efficient combination.

Hey, if you get some great pictures, I will be happy to incorporate them into the online reference guide (www.SharpeningHandbook.info).

I've already gotten feedback from one person regarding the sharpening of the Termite End Grain Tool, and it has been incorporated.

That is the idea :  to capture the wisdom of those who do the work and pull it together in one place, providing it to all for free.  I am not seeking funding or advertisers; rather I am funding this myself.  That way it is simply a good reference tool.  Nothing more; nothing less.

I know there are many sages on this site, and would love to incorporate their wisdom.  If you would rather send it via eMail, a link is on the site for that purpose.

Kind regards,
Rich

I've not thought of including a microscope into my sharpening routine.  Sounds like a worthwhile idea.

Question :  what magnification should I buy ?

I work in my basement, so I have few options that don't involve more exercise than I care to do.

I use the turkey baster to get the level of the water down so that it doesn't spill when I remove the trough from the tabs holding it up at the wheel.  (I have an older T2000)

If I'm going to sharpen again soon, I'll leave the remaining stuff in the trough and let it sit.  NOTE :  the stone is NOT in the water !

It it is going to be a while, then, I have a bucket on the floor beneath the Tormek where I dump the water+.  I just let the sludge in the trough evaporate down to dust and then use a scraper to clean it out into a trash can.  As for the bucket, well if it doesn't evaporate in a few days then I haul it upstairs and dump in the flower beds.  Plants seem to love it :  they grow to darned fast now !!

Rich

A while ago, I asked about using worn T7/T8 wheels on the T4.  What I found is that the 250mm wheel is wider than the 200mm (T4) wheel.  Bummer.