Messages

When I use the SJ wheel, I don't find the need to hone. 

In Leonard Lee's book, The Complete Guide to Sharpening, he has some good information on these.  Summary is that you'll have to do it by hand.  And, he states,

These are truly the chisels from hell when it comes to sharpening. I used to think that sharpening a V-tool used in carving was difficult, but it is child's play compared to doing a first-class job on a corner chisel.

And he ended with this note

But realistically, if you get two straight edges that cut well, just leave the thing alone.

Good luck,
Rich

Wootz,

That is interesting.  How does that compare with wooden cutting boards ?

Kind regards,
Rich

I use sewing machine oil.  Very light and thin.

I started this thread as a response to Ken's comments about the SVD-185/6 (#11 in https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3442.0), and also to trigger some discussion.   I think this jig has a huge number of untapped usages.

You may remember that I made a piece for the SVD-18x to sharpen fly cutter bits for my Rose Engine lathe (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3380.msg20749#msg20749).

In thinking about the SVD-18x jig recently, I think either the carbide blade sharpener or a custom insert could also be used to sharpen rotary cutter blades (as asked by AirplaneDoc in https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3368.msg20583#msg20583).  I think a modification might be best as a tool handle might be best for rotating the blade in a consistent manner for an even grind. 

Thoughts anyone?

Rich

Rick,

I too center drill, and progressively increase bit sizes.  I have found that, in these cases, the secondary facet isn't about wandering, but about chip evacuation.  The secondary relief is to help with this, and consequently with pressure needed to drill.  That is what I found in the information from Joseph Mazoff (http://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html).

Rich

Rick,

I'm interested in your efforts & experiences with the tertiary facet grinding of a drill bit.  As a hobby machinist, I believe this will be greatly helpful for drilling steels on the metal lathe (& pillar press ?).

Maybe post your results to Drill Bit Sharpening folder ?

Rich

What is extremely important to the edge life is the adjusting of the scissors, and the range i aim for is when the scissors open & close effortlessly while at the same time the fabric won't fold or slide.
Too tight and you will lessen the edge life, while too loose will make the fabric fold and/or slide..

Kwakster,

Would you be able to specify a range of pressure (e.g., pounds required) ?

Kind regards,
Rich

So, this has to change the angle with which you hold the tool when sharpening from the "horizontal" position.  Not the sharpening angle, but the way you hold it must be more vertically oriented than without this piece holding the USB. 

Do you find that this makes sharpening easier or harder?  Do you have to adjust the height of the grinder to accommodate?

Rich

Mike,

The SVD-185/6 can be set to 2, the projection at 75mm, & the USB set to hole A (on the TTS-100) to get a 40 deg nose angle.  Don't know how that works for the wings, but I would bet it is defined by how you grind the wings (i.e., how far back you grind them).  In any regard, I have to believe that you can get very close to what you want, and develop a solution that meets your needs.

Do let us know though.

I've been to Anchorage in February:  was 20 degrees outside.  Our 747 had to land there in route from Chicago to Hong Kong.  In Chicago, it was -20 degrees and the plane would not hold enough fuel to go all the way (who knew that jet fuel expands when cold?).  I certainly didn't expect Anchorage to be 40 degrees warmer than Chicago !

Kind regards,
Rich

Steve Bottorff has a great discussion on this at http://sharpeningmadeeasy.com/Scissorangles.htm.

Rick,

I have a web site, and put all my Tormek forum pics in a folder there.  Then, I can use standard HTML tags to do what you are asking. 

I also use the width or height attributes on the picture also.  This allows a full-sized picture to be displayed smaller, and enlarged when the picture is clicked on.  An example is shown below (with spaces added to show the text correctly).  The 300 refers to pixels. 

An example is below :

     [ IML width=300 ] (HTML link to the picture) [ / IML ]

Kind regards,
Rich

Jeremy,

You will probably also find that having an easy means for resharpening, you will probably do it more often, and not wait too long.

Rich

Try using your SB-250 stone with some Blue Wonder detergent in the water basin (but don't use too much of it as then foam will start to build up)
From what i have found it will prevent the stone from clogging/glazing much better & longer than using only water.

Does any detergent work, or only Blue Wonder?

Sharpco,

When my SG stone finally got too small, I replaced it with an SB a 2 or 3 years ago.  My reasoning is that I sharpen a lot of turning tools, most of which are high speed steel (I woodturn as a hobby).  The SB stone works superbly for that.

But, I'm expanding my pursuits into wood carving more, and those tools are generally high carbon steel.

The SB is now at 210mm, so I just ordered a new SG stone.   I think using the SG stone when the SB isn't warranted will be the best approach.  Will let you know in a year or so ...

Rich