Messages

I use mine often.  Very easy to use & fast.

Rich

When you post, you can use an HTLM tag extension to show the picture smaller, but allow for clicking on it to see the real size.  The tag extension is shown below (I added a space after the brace ([) so the HTML code would show.

[ img width=1000] picture link [ /img]

The number (1000 in this case) is the number of pixels. 

Alternatively, you could specify the height instead of the width.

Rich

Stig,

I did not take it negatively.  Rather; I thought it was funnily true.

Kind regards,
Rich

Wootz,

I'd love a copy !

Kind regards,
Rich

Bob,

I made mine using a steel pipe and steel square rod.  Cut a ⅜" long piece of 2" ID pipe, then split it into two halves.  Welded a ⅜" x ⅜" piece of rod onto that, then ground it down to look pretty good (as I'm not a professional welder!!).

Then drilled and tapped a hole for a screw. 


But, you could get a collar at the hardware store that is smaller, say ¼" to ½" inside diameter.  McMaster Carr sells them also (https://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=19ce2z1). 

You will need a longer screw to replace the set screw.  Total cost should be about $5.

Kind regards,
Rich

NmCarver,

As promised, I tried a few things today.  The tool I sharpened is a 4mm veiner.

I tried using the SVS-32 Short Tool Jig (I have the older version, not the newer SVS-38).  I found it wasn't useful as it would not allow me to rotate the tool to adequately sharpen the top "wings" of the tool.  But, don't despair.  I did find two options that worked magnificently. 

My first attempt was using the D collar I'd designed earlier (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3331.msg20046#msg20046).

Pictures below show it :

The settings I used are :

• Universal Support Bar set using the TTS-100 in the B hole
• Projection set using the TTS-100 at 55mm (pictures above show a 65mm projection)

This produced a grind angle of about 25°.  I tried it again with :

• Projection set using the TTS-100 at 65mm

This produced a grind angle of about 20°.

I repeated this experiment using the SVS-50 Multi Jig, as shown below.

The SVS-50 Multi Jig produced the same results as the D collar.

The edge I produced is shown below.  This was straight off the SB-250 wheel; I didn't hone it or touch it up on the SJ-250 grindstone.

You can probably see in my pictures that the MVS-50 is on the tool about as far up as it can go.  If I were to sharpen this more often, I would probably pursue using the MVS-50 with a different approach than using the TTS-100.  As the veiner got shorter with sharpening, this would be an untenable approach.  Consider something like the KenJig approach for setting the distance between the Universal Support Bar and the grindstone, and look at a projection nearer 20-30mm.

Hope that helps.

Kind regards,
Rich

Nmcarver,

I have a small veiner that I've not used in years (I turn much more than carve).  Let me try a few thoughts I have tomorrow and get back (I'm thinking that the SVS-50 multijig may work).

Rich

I brought an SJ grindstone at the AAW conference in Atlanta last year.  Came home OK, but I did carry it onboard with me.  Lose the clothes if necessary!

Rich

Larry,

I have a membership to Fine WoodWorking's web site as this allows me to get the magazine electronically and to look at all the historical publications.  They probably have some good articles about shooting boards. I know they have been discussed on the FWW podcast a number of times. 

Good luck & kind regards,
Rich

... I read through the part on planes - I wasn't fully aware that there were other stones available for the Tormek. Do you swap the wheels, or do you have a secondary (smaller?) Tormek for that?  With just one machine, I can't really see swapping stones as being a time-efficient way of sharpening. CAN one, in your opinion, do a secondary bevel on the regular SG-250 stone?

I do swap the stones on my lone machine (T-2000, 15+yrs old).   I've thought of getting another but haven't been able to justify the cost (when I need other stuff & the stones swap so easily). 

On the other hand, as for jigs, I've invested in those extensively.

I chose to invest in the SJ stone, and am glad I did.  Really works well, and when used appropriately, it should last many, many years.

Kind regards,
Rich

Woodguy,

If your grindstone is too far gone (generally <200 mm, but definitely <180 mm), that happens.  Gotta get a new grindstone. 

Kind regards,
Rich

Larry,

Indeed.  I outlined it on www.SharpeningHandbook.info.  I use the SJ stone for this.

Kind regards,
Rich

Rick,

Your secondary grinds look really good.  Great job!

I had wondered about the value of secondary grinds given that I drill metals with successively increasing sizes on secured work (so there is not a problem with wandering).   But the evacuation of the swarf is so nice that I'll keep doing it.

There is a really good document titled, "Drill Bit Geometry" by Joseph Mazoff that discusses the secondary & tertiary relief grinds at length.  He also discusses a relief grind on the side which I believe he calls a secondary point angle.

There is a link to that doc on my www.SharpeningHandbook.info site.  (This site was written to be a sharpening parallel to the Machinists Handbook.  Not fancy :  just the facts.)

I too am an amateur machinist, and I find I need to sharpen my bits often.  The DBS-22 jig makes that much easier.  And when drilling wood, the tear out is significantly less with sharp bits.

Kind regards,
Rich 

I have found that a good practice is to

• sharpen with the SB or SG stone, and then
• sharpen a microbevel on the SJ stone (with around 2 degrees greater included angle).

Then, I can re-sharpen quickly on the SJ stone a number of times before having to go back to the SB/SG stone.

But this works for me as I am only sharpening my own knives.

Rich

Rolf,

I'd forgotten that you put your jigs on wooden posts where it makes sense.  That's a great idea that I will look to incorporate.

Kind regards,
Rich