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One thing I noticed in your videos is there is a very slight up/down movement as you turn the wheel using the handle.  Did you examine the edge to see if there was any indication of differential sharpening due to this action?

Rick,

The cutting wheel is probably not centered on the shaft. Not a huge problem as the jig is not fixed but can move up & down to accommodate.  Or, at least that's what I think. 

When you get a motorized one done, please post pics. 

Rich

The wife relented and allowed me to sharpen this :

I had to sharpen it in the horizontal position, as I found that when trying to sharpen in the vertical position, the wheel tended to grab the cutting blade and pull it towards the back of the machine.

I made two videos of this in action :

Sharpening the edge on the SG stone :  https://youtu.be/SO4bBOTTI20

Honing the edge on the SJ stone :  https://youtu.be/HTHGrZ5pJb4

The hand wheel I made for the SVD-186 was key to the successful sharpening.  It allowed me to turn the cutter in a consistent manner, not over or under grinding a spot on the continuous surface.  Also, I modified the fender washers by drilling the hole to 8mm.  That allowed them to sit down on the 2nd shoulder of the SVD-186.

I couldn't test the sharpness as I don't have BESS, but it was definitely sharp enough to cut the fabric my wife cuts.  (Oh, and by the way, you have to test it on a cutting board.)

Rich

I am interested in knowing from the experts :  is water needed at the point where the cutting edge is sharpened (I.e., for cooling), or merely for keeping the wheel cool & for washing away the swarf ?

I ask as Eldon drove a thought about what would happen if too much surfactant were added and little or no water was drawn to the sharpening site. 

Rich

On my first day I was shown their sharpening system - a Tormek T7.   I went away and reluctantly started learning Tormek way,
It was a steep learning curve, but a very worth while one.

Michael,

I'm interested in knowing more about why the learning curve is so high.  Is there something that we as a community could do / provide (e.g., videos, etc.) that would make this easier?

Kind regards,
Rich

Michael,

I have a 15-year old T-2000.  If I get a T8 (or find a good deal on a used T7), I won't get rid of the Green Machine.  Probably keep it running with a different stone :  maybe SB on one and SG on the other.

Rich

Cutit,

If you're near Columbus, Ohio, I'd be glad to help. 

Kind regards,
Rich

Elden & Ken,

You triggered a thought.   It's great to have someone local to talk to about ideas, questions, and even complaints.  With wood turning and carving, there are clubs where you can do this, and get ideas & presentations about the craft.  My local wood turning club even does "mentoring" sessions where one member volunteers to teach a small group about something that fits well there.

I'm not sure if there is enough interest in having a club devoted to sharpening, even if it met once every 3-4 months.  But, there is probably value in presenting about sharpening at woodworking centers (e.g., Woodcraft, etc). 

I've heard repeatedly on the Fine Woodworking podcast, Shop Talk Live (http://www.finewoodworking.com/blog/shop-talk-live), that the value of sharp tools must be experienced to know how much easier (& safer) it is.

So how do we as devotees get this message out ?

Rich

Brett,

I made an add-on to the SVD-18x jig.  The details are here :  https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3368.0.

Kind regards,
Rich

[Master one task before trying a different one]

get a black Sharpie

I agree with CB on everything else he said, but not about this :  I prefer a red Sharpie.  I find it easier to see when I have the grind angle right.

master the fundamentals before branching out

This is a great statement that applies to so much in life.  Another way of stating it is,

Master one task before trying a different one

It is only by mastering something that one can truly judge its merit and value to you.  This can't be stated strongly enough.  (Does that make it the tao of sharpening ?)

Kind regards,
Rich

Well, I put this together:

The exploded pieces are shown below (the flat disks are fender washers) :

I envision sharpening from the vertical position, holding the SVD jig at the Tormek logo, whilst turning it via the handle.

I put a handle on the wheel to aim for an easier way to assure a consistent grind around the wheel.

This SVD-18x jig really does have loads of possibilities.

Now, just gotta convince the wife to let me take apart one of her cutters to try it out ....

Rich

I like to use the SJ stone for only adding a micro bevel.  Works well, fast, & leaves a sharp edge.

Rich

When I use the SJ wheel, I don't find the need to hone. 

In Leonard Lee's book, The Complete Guide to Sharpening, he has some good information on these.  Summary is that you'll have to do it by hand.  And, he states,

These are truly the chisels from hell when it comes to sharpening. I used to think that sharpening a V-tool used in carving was difficult, but it is child's play compared to doing a first-class job on a corner chisel.

And he ended with this note

But realistically, if you get two straight edges that cut well, just leave the thing alone.

Good luck,
Rich

Wootz,

That is interesting.  How does that compare with wooden cutting boards ?

Kind regards,
Rich

I use sewing machine oil.  Very light and thin.