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And me!
As I said before somewhere on the forum, a self centering, adjustable ( in terms of projection) jig would be ideal. It can't be difficult to achieve surely?
I had considered cutting off the self centering clamp off the new KJ and welding it to the clampless shaft of the old SVM jig ( ie the clamp removed with a hacksaw).
Ho hum..............

Maybe another way to gauge the consistency of angles using such a jig across formats ( eg from grinding wheel to leather honing wheel to felt wheel to paper wheels) where a protocol is being followed (eg one of Wootzs for a particular knife steel) would be the sharpness results. Sure you can test on a goniometer to within 0.25 of a degree but what will matter is the final sharpness results? If the jig doesn't allow for consistent and repeatable angles across formats then final sharpness will surely be compromised.
For me the proof of the pudding would be sharpness rather than what my goniometer is telling me.
Or am I missing something?

Yes you're right.
So many things I keep thinking of to ask him!
He left a massive legacy,
Dang!

Don't quite understand what your point is here?
If I understand correctly I'm not sure what the " being stuck" means.
You hate the honing wheel?
The leather honing wheel is there to de-burr.
At some point you must remove the burr.
Finer and finer grinding wheels up to the JS 4000 is not going to achieve this on a powered system.
At some point you will have to de-burr.
Leather honing wheel at correct angle depending on steel will achieve this.
Felt wheel at correct angle will achieve this.
Hanging leather strop may achieve this.
Creating a burr is easy.
Removing burr and refining edge is the hard part.

This may sound silly but have you used the tried and tested method of holding the grinding stone in your left hand, the honing wheel in your right hand and pulling your left hand towards you and your right hand push away from you?
This is the usual method for the T8. Not sure if it will work for a T7.

Thanks all for your help. I managed to get good square edges by being patient. Repeatedly using the marker method to check progress. That last batch of chisels turned out well.
Thanks for the link Ken. Hadn't seen this particular part of the Tormek video and it makes sense. A good tip to remember.
As for the post before about how we can be sure the stone is square when we true using the support bar?
Well I think the reply from Ken answers that. In more detail:
True the stone.
Check it's square to the back of the stone.
If it's not then Stigs method won't work.

Thanks! I'll look them up.

Liking this Mr Colvin. Have been thinking about this for a while. How to fix those 'stops' on the thread of the usb? The micro adjust is too moveable, just laying it down on a bench can move it. So how to fix it on the thread?

No I don't think you are "thinking wrong" at all.
There are three things of issue here:
Accuracy ( your desire or Vadim's desire for accuracy down to 0.1mm)
Consistency.
Repeatability.
I would argue that the second two of these are interdependent.
The first is also very important for the 2nd and 3rd to be achievable.
But I think if you put all the emphasis on accuracy then you may be putting less emphasis on the consistency and repeatability.
In real world sharpness, as you say, 80-100 Bess is more than adequate for a customer who can't tell the difference. If you can achieve these results ( I always try to for my sense of pride and job satisfaction) then that's great. If you can consistently repeat the process without looking at software and calculators and trying to raise the Usb by 0.1 of a mm, then that's even better.
Sharpening for customers becomes uneconomical if your main objective is accuracy, the repeatability and consistency are more important as speed of process becomes an important factor.
I am not advocating prioritising speed over accuracy. If you wanted to do that then get a belt grinder and learn how to sharpen super fast and not necessarily super accurate or even super repeatable or consistent.
Tormek use is never any good done at fast pace. It is a great tool to use PRECISELY because it can be used consistently and repeatably to a good level of accuracy.

Faster? Yes
As good of an edge? Yes
Better and faster? Yes
All those yeses have caveats though.
I bought a T8 thinking that all those potential questions would be answered: YES!
It will take you some time to get proficient using Tormek. There is a learning curve so be prepared to invest time and clear thinking and practice before getting your anticipated results. Once you do crack it, and it may be a long journey, you won't look back and all those yeses will fall in to place.
I expect it took a while to get used to the TS Prof?
Same with Tormek.
Only the diversity will ultimately pay off the time getting used to it,because chisels, axes, planer blades, scissors and of course knives become accessible to you.
Some specific tips. Some of the harder steels you mention will require diamond or CBN wheels to set your edges. Having said that the original SG wheel is adequate for most and you should start with it to familiarise yourself with the system. But note that SG will need periodic truing. Diamond and CBN do not.
I primarily use Tormek to 'set' edges and then use a variety of honing techniques. This process is the secret to sharpness and you will over look it at your peril.
Using the standard Tormek leather wheel free hand is ok, again you should get used to using it.
For more precise honing an FVB is pretty essential so you can 'dial in' an exact angle.
One last thing. Don't sell your WSKO just yet. I along with others ( 3D Anvil for one) have found it a great honing tool with leather belts and various compounds. Ultimately that will save you time at no loss of sharpness.
Good luck on your journey. There are lots of people on this forum who are a mine of information and want to help, so keep posting.
Exciting!

I think we are entering the accurate vs consistent debate again here. I'll tell you a bit about my journey. I obsessed with accuracy for a long time, trying to replicate Wootz protocols with similar Bess scores. Then with research I went for consistency across all formats so to speak- setting edges on Tormek wheels, honing on Tormek leather wheels, refining on paper wheels etc.it is easy to disappear down rabbit holes with both and tie yourself in knots.
CB helped me to realise that a compromise between the two works.
3D Anvil taught me to experiment and find my own way.
Depending on what you are hoping to achieve find a way to get the results you are looking for. It will take time and learning but you will get there.
Anything under 100 Bess is good enough for me and my customers.
The sub 50 Bess we all want to get for all knives under any conditions is a rabbit hole not worth exploring in the real world I have concluded.
Having said all that, personal correspondence with Wootz just before he died, recommended getting ALL measurements within 0.1mm. Those were the tolerances he was recommending.
So...... the debate will continue.

I appreciate previous comments but there is a glaringly obvious issue here. And we should not be afraid to call it out. The new KJ 45 jig is really good for centring most everyday knives be they thin or thick on the blade stock. But it is really compromised for its lack of adjustment on the jig protrusion. The old svm jigs were great for adjusting jig protrusion and no good for centring thin or thick knives. And they are knife jigs. Remember that.
So why not the best of both? Let's challenge Tormek to do the right thing and produce a self centring jig with the ability to adjust the stop. It isn't rocket science surely?

Only my opinion but I think that the 400 grit CBN wheel would be more beneficial to your arsenal. The difference between 1000 and 1200 is minimal. If you want to go for ultra refined edges go from the 1000 to the SJ250 ( Japanese water stone) and then on to honing for polished edges with burr removal.
For lower end and mainstream knife steels I am stopping at CBN 400 grit to set the edge and then going on to honing/ burr removal either with rock hard felt wheel and or leather strops. Getting very good results.
For higher end knives/ harder steels setting the edge on CBN 1000 or the diamond 1200 grit is sufficient for me with the correct honing protocol.
If it's a choice between 400 and 1200 I'd say 400 every time for the all round benefits.
If budget is not an issue then both maybe.
I reckon after a period of time you'll be using the 400 way more than the 1200.

I just clamped a 10 mm Allen key in the KJ45. Not centered but clamped tight nonetheless.
Tried to attach a photo but 'file size' was 'too large'.
Can someone please tell me how to attach a photo?

Thanks both. I posted initially because I found the manual lacking here. Yes it does state what the adjustment knobs do but does not instruct how this would work in practice.
My ( probably faulty) thought process is as follows.
Align chisel in jig.
Somehow imagine using the truing jig in reverse.
The chisel become the wheel, the wheel becomes the the truing tool.
Gradually, starting at the highest point of the chisel edge, lower the usb with each pass......
This is where it falls down because each adjustment of the usb alters the angle.
I will try Ken's advice and see how it goes.