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A while back I sharpened some chisels for a good friend.
Today he said that they were really sharp when he first got them back but the edge soon dulled and he's frustrated now that he didn't keep them honed up regularly, they are now blunt. We both agreed that not knowing the make that they were not quality in the first place.
Long story short, can anyone recommend a manufacturer for a set of 3 chisels to buy that will at least retain an edge for longer?
I'm not au fait with woodworking tools.
He mentioned going down the Japanese route, I said the same thing would apply to any purchase, 'do your research'.
I said I'd ask on here.
Thanks in advance.

Apologies in advance for going over old ground but I think worth revisiting.
The introduction of the KS123 has highlighted the old topic of the slight movement of the USB when locking it in place with the nuts on the sleeve housing. Not talking backlash here. Neither am I referring to the need to push down on the USB above the micro adjust when locking to minimise movement. That movement is still there and it's no longer a suspicion as you can see the pointer move on the scale of the KS123 if you check after locking down.
Does this matter?
I think it does.
There are issues with accuracy and consistency with this.
Some will say not enough to affect things overly much but if I'm going to hone a knife at +1.5 degrees from the original grinding angle to remove a bur and then at exact to clean up, a discrepancy of +/- half a degree ( sometimes more) is going to matter. To me anyway.
So any thoughts on this?
Any work arounds?
As a slight aside. I think the movement caused by locking (as the end of the screw engages with the leg of the USB in the sleeve) is not so much up and down as side to side? Hence it's the projection distance being affected rather than the height of the USB. If that makes sense.
Right. That's my Sunday morning issue put out there. I'm back to the workshop to dream of a perfect world........

All seems quiet on the Tormek front.
This isn't a serious question but you may find it funny.
I use the Tormek standing up, edge leading to set edges.
I have a bit of a belly but not overly.
I can't seem to stop the dreaded occurrence of the wheel sucking on to my shirt and soaking it.
Now I know this is not a real world problem and I should be wearing an apron, but it is SO annoying!
It breaks concentration and usually occurs when grinding the tip when I am trying to use precision control to match the curve and not over grind.
Any tips?
Anyone else have this problem?
I swear a cotton shirt is like a magnet to a wet CBN wheel!

Think this might be one for you Ken. I'm looking into getting a used Tormek supergrind and was wondering if it would be possible to use new honing wheels and grinding wheels on these older machines. There is a chance I can get one for a good deal and would consider it if I can upgrade it with new version wheels and usbs?

Ha anyone used this ( LA 120) to deburr serrated knives?
If so is it th thing to use or would a tapered felt wheel be better?
Thoughts please, thanks.

I would be very interested to know member's experiences and thoughts on the use of a rock hard felt wheel to deburr knives.
I am asking because I have had very limited success with it following Wootz's guidance and protocols.
So I'm wondering if others have had problems and any tips to iron out those problems.
Thanks in advance.

Please forgive me if this has been covered before.
I was recently re-watching a Knifegrinders video about modifying SVM-45 jigs to handle thicker knives so they would be centered in the jig.
First question: has anyone on the forum proceeded with this? How did it work out?

A part of the video explains very clearly how to measure the jig 'offset' to come up with an ideal thickness of knife for each jig.

Second question: has anyone on the forum followed this and seen any real advantage for symmetrical bevels for 'normal' kitchen knives in the 2-3mm spine thickness?
You see Vadim said that a non modified SMV-45 would handle knives in that 2-3mm range then goes onto give an optimal based on the offset calculation.

This maybe a dead end but I'm interested in members thoughts on this. And please don't suggest getting the KJ45 to alleviate this potential problem. This is not what I'm interested in.

On reflection it is a very useful instructional video.

Hi everyone. I am new to chisel sharpening though I have good experience sharpening knives on a Tormek t8.
I have chisels to sharpen which are not square at the edge. I suspect due to incorrect previous sharpenings. How can I correct this before actually sharpening?
I have diamond wheels, SE77 jig and MB100.
I tried to attach a photo from my library but it says the file is too big which I don't understand.
Help with theses issues would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Have searched for this on the forum and I'm sure it is somewhere, sorry if it's been covered already.
What is the grit rating for the Tormek honing paste and how does it convert to microns?

This may have been covered. Apologies if it has.
When using the new KJ45 on the lower stop for wide knives/cleavers the locking nut ( black knob) catches on the USB leg when grinding on that side. Has anyone any ideas on how to remedy this?

I've used the composite honing wheel for a little while now. Not free hand but controlled angle on FVB. Maybe 50 knives, 4 passes per side. Other users may have noticed the little black shavings that come off it whilst honing? That got me to thinking if the wheel was getting thinner. Obviously the wheel diameter is important for calculating precise honing angles. So I measured the diameter. No change from the 218mm.
Was wondering if any other composite wheel users have noticed the wearing of material off the wheel and if and when it becomes an issue?
Does the composite wheel wear out?

Hi everyone. I'm sure this has been covered before. But I was wondering what sharpening protocols people use for most knives they get, ie everyday kitchen knives that are not super steel, indeed of unknown composition. Probably what would be termed by Wootz as those steels tending to form positive burrs when sharpening. Or put another way someone hands you a batch of knives, you don't really know what the steel is but you strongly suspect they are not high end. What Wootz would term 'lower end' and 'mainstream' knives.
So what would be your 'go to' protocol be?
Efficient in terms of time, simplicity but with a level of sharpness that you are happy with. What Bess scores would you be happy with?
So I'm really asking what's the method you use for batch sharpening?
Any input would be much appreciated, thanks.

Hi. I know this is not strictly a Tormek question but it is connected sufficiently to warrant the question I hope.
For a while now I have been setting up and trying to use paper wheels on a slow grinder to remove burrs. All this with information from Vadim's book, Knifegrinder equipment and many emails from the man himself when I had questions. Obviously that route is now closed ( can't tell you how shocked and upset I was to hear of his death). Without his advice I feel a bit lost. I have had mixed results and whilst I don't aspire to duplicate Vadim's results exactly as described in his sharpening protocols, I am not getting any where near and getting very confused.
To cut to the chase, is there anyone out there who has gone through this process successfully and is happy to share knowledge and experience?
I understand it's not strictly Tormek ( even though a T8 is used to set edges and deroot burrs with a felt wheel) but maybe someone would be willing to give a contact email address so correspondence could occur outside of the forum?
I would so much appreciate any help I can get. Thanks.

Apologies if this has already been covered but was wondering if anyone has used this honing wheel in the way set out by Vadim in the knifegrinders video for lower end knives.? IE: setting the edge on a 400 grit CBN wheel. Honing at exact angle on the composite wheel then cleaning up at exact angle on chromium oxide on a leather wheel. If anyone has I would be interested to know what results this gives with Bess scores. From memory Vadim was getting scores of 70 or so as outlined in the appendix to his book. Thanks.

Was wondering if anyone is familiar with this steel?
If yes, was also wondering what sort of burr it produces? - positive,negative or intermediate?
Thanks.