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Use a caliper, ruler, square (or whatever else) to get them.

jvh

Hi!  I couldn't find a decent way to measure precisely a distance such as FH... Any hints ?

Thank you for your answer! I'll practice a bit (lot?) more with blades with a pronounced curvature before I dare try it with the jig, but i'll definitely give it a try at some point...

I encountered a few jig ideas on this forum. The kenjig/hanjig seemed brilliant and simple, and each time I use them I find them even more so.

There is another category which initially I found appealing, to the point of doing a bit of welding and dremeling and the like : the collar jigs such as the one where wootz adapted a collar around the shaft to prevent lifting, or the pivot collar jig described on https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/indexJigs.html#PivotJig. I put the latter together and installed it onto my T8. And then I realized that if I used it edge leading, and for whatever reason the blade caught on the wheel, it would be a recipe for disaster : broken knife in any event, and probably bent universal support, shattered jig or blade shards all over the place.

Do you still use such jigs ? Do you only use them edge trailing (on the FVB) ?

Cheers,

Nick.

I was on this thread as part of my binge-reading this excellent forum to otpimize my learning curve with the T8.

As can be seen on SEM images done by Todd Simpson, the chromium oxide grains, and a commercial diamond spray labelled as 0.25-micron, are close in size, both ranging from 0.15 to 0.5 microns.

The site https://www.thiers-issard.fr/fr/accessoires-de-rasoirs/79-13467-chromox.html mentions 3.6 and 2.5 micron granulometry, not .25 or .5 ... Is there some kind of breakdown of the chromox crystals that crushes them to a smaller average size ?

I was wondering, as I couldn't find any reference to it in here: Has anyone considered making some kind of customized sliding plate for the DBS-22 with the idea of sharpening small knives in mind ? I was thinking of a reusing the existing plate without the drill jig, or a couple of 3D printed parts that would slide inside the baseplate grooves, and locking nuts on top to accomodate for varying distance to the stone ?

The idea being to be able to rest/clamp the knife on the sliding plate to avoid scratches...

Same here, I had my PIN delivered before the FVB arrived.

What is "tormek-tatoo-prone"? 
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I was referencing this : https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1568.msg6183#msg6183

Well, no worries, it was essentially a joke on my part. My personal situation is such that i'll gladly part with a reasonable amount of my money (rather than eventually die with it) if I feel it makes a difference in the end result and my technique. I guess it comes down to the time/money/effort/result compromise.

I had been trying to fix a wooden knife measuring jig but I would either have had to spend a considerable amount of time sanding, routing, glueing, dominoing, etc., which i'd rather spend sharpening knives. It speeds up my setup for each knife, I can either use it to measure the length of to set it to the now famous 139mm.

Same thing for the laser line, I feel it really gives valuable feeback, improves the end result dramatically and helps develop muscle memory for the pivoting/lfting combination. All in all, I don't regret, and I think it rather helps me spend time and concentrate on areas which deserve it, such as putting several very different types of knives to the stones and practicing on them. I have some Victorinox, Opinel and Sabatier which are good - albeit very different - candidates for my practice sessions.

...snip...
Not to hijack the thread but the rust erasers work great to clean the bottom of pots and pans where grease has cooked on.

Very true, and they even remove rust from tools left out all winter, and such...

Yup, and where I come from, we use these to remove rust from ski edges, as well as dull the tip and heel of the edges to ease turn entry and exit.

I saw a YT video wherein a guy puts a scotchbright pad lodged in the back of his water trough

The scotchbrite pad is used a lot as well for cleaning high end japanese wetstones or glass stones when mounted on blanks for edgpro-like tools.

Thank for your answers! I will modify the DBS-22 jig veeeeeeeeeery carefully and try on the SB. I will keep you posted!

Thank you for the input, I will try to do that. Do you still feel like you have a lot of control when you sharpen that way ? Or is it tormek-tatoo-prone ?

I will probably do it on a few inexpensive knives and on the SG only (not SJ) before I get back to this one !

Hello all,

I'm still getting to grips with my new T8. Today's target is a corsican knife made in the hills around Ajaccio by a renowned knifemaker (Biancucci). I have no idea what the steel is, I just know it is NOT stainless and the forging process involves tempering in ice. I'm not sure what happened to this knife, but close to the heel the bevel was shorter and the blade ground in an akward fashion.

As you can see (C1.jpg), it is a thick and bulky blade, with a high curvature in the tip area. It also has a very thick heel. I used the setup template from Jan to have a reproducible setup, and it curves upward much more quickly than the template. I also used a reference line on the stone with a laser pointer.

To make sure I didn't miss anything, I tried to first lift (airplane roll) the handle only. As expected, the edge would quickly run higher up the stone, with a very high angle (C2.jpg). I then tried to pivot (airplane yaw) the handle rather than just lift it. However, the blade being very short, and because of the flat handle on the SVM-45 jig, the distance between the blade would also increase quickly (albeit not as quickly as when only lifting). (C3.jpg)

Back to the paper template, but this time with the triangular-shaped pivot jig (C4.jpg). With a lot of pivoting and a bit of lifting, this improved dramatically. It would still get further up the wheel, but much less than before (C5.jpg). I had to reverse course at some point over the US, because the pivoting action would bring the tip closer to the edge of the wheel. And boy it ended up sharp after honing on felt/1µ diamond spray.

As you can see (C6.jpg), I did not completely correct the area where the bevel is much thinner (I'd have to remove a lot of steel, and probably reshape the heel). You will probably also notice that in the first part of the curvature, the bevel is wider. At the beginning of the pivoting action, the edge would drop for a short while below the laser line, so no surprise here.

And that had me thinking that maybe a pivot jig with a variable flat area  (if this is not clear i'll sketch something) might help. Or maybe the SVM-45 with just the handle upside-down, who knows. Or the one sold by wootz. Or maybe somehow bringing the svm-45 backwards to keep the edge on the line, no longer resting over the US, but that would be detrimental to consistency.

Well, your feedback is welcome. The tormek is not even a month old and I got kids, so we're talking a few hours of experience on it. Still, I think the compromise between speed and quality is very promising.

I know I'm unearthing an old subject, but I have a few Festool brad point bits that have gotten quite dull.

So I think this modification might help a lot, as the Tormek is the only grinder I can use for this. I was wondering what you would suggest as far as the wheel for doing this is concerned:
- Use the SB-250, and maybe mess up the shoulder of the wheel, that I can always true back in shape later ?
- Use the DF-250, and use as always very light pressure, at the risk of of creating a small zone with higher wear than on the rest of the wheel ?

To be clear, the intent is not sharpening hundreds of brad point bits, just getting my dear ones back in shape.

A lot of water will drain, but in my experience it remains wet for a looooooooong time.

Two questions:
How long does a wheel at rest take to dry, verses one spinning on the Tormek, with no water (air circulation)?
Do the stone wheels dry slower then the diamond wheels, same time, faster? 

The T2000/7/8 are designed that they can run pretty much all the time, I would be tempted to leave my stone wheels running on them.

Well, aside from the dubious interest from an energy standpoint, you may have to factor in the fact that rotating the wheels will also prevent some water from dripping off the wheel (the swiss cheese fondue effect ?). But that's an unexpected question.

As for the comparison between stone and diamond, the answer is clear: the diamond wheels sry MUCH faster as they don't soak up at all. The SG stone probably stores around 1 liter of water.