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This is one thing I like about the Tormek... mine is over a decade old... I've been a bit 'neglectful' in maintenance... yet it has never caused me any issues.  (I am better now).   Everytime I fire it up... it's good to go.

I do concede that the jigs radius may have been so that the knife could be pivoted (yaw) (although I feel in use it's more of an afterthought).

Setting that aside though, I think lifting (roll) can achieve the same result... and, to me anyway, fits the design/setup of the knife jig.  (The Jeff Farris video is what I was referring to earlier).  The change in angle by changing the point of contact on the stone, can be offset by the "side" angle you create by jig placement.

Herman, I have not overlooked your setup.... I think it's a good one, and will probably be my next venture.  I do have a couple of questions... do you ever have an issue scratching/scuffing the side of the knife?  With other platform based sharpeners, that's often the case, but it's also because the 'swarf' can get on the platform, which may not be an issue with the Tormek (since it's for the most part washed away).  Also, when you set the angle, do you compensate for the angle of the blade itself? (Not the bevel, but the actual angle of the blade grind).

All in all, I think Wootz was onto something in his original post.. that pivoting the knife introduces more factors than merely maintaining the same point of contact on the stone... when using the jigs.

I'm interested in understanding more about how lasers get used in sharpening on the Tormek.

• what type of laser do you use ?


• where did you buy it ?
• how much did it cost ?
• how do you mount it for use ?


• is it attached to the Tormek, or to the bench ?

Pictures would be great !

Kind regards,
Rich

The laser I'm using, and a few pictures are in  this thread...

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3329.0

... it has a magnet in the base, and I just stuck it on the side of the USB, as seen in the pictures later in that thread.  (That particular USB is flat on one side, so it stuck there no problem).

Here's a link to the laser I use on Amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDL220S-Laser-Level/dp/B000B8GBBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502330179&sr=8-1&keywords=bdl220s

I've attached another picture which shows how I use it.  (In this picture I had the laser attached to a clamp, before I figured out I could just stick it on the USB).  Basically, the laser establishes a line on the stone, that I match up to the angles I have (pre)marked on the side of the stone.  Then when I turn the stone on, I hold the knife level and use the laser line to sharpen at the angle I have it set at.

Hope that helps?

Hope you don't mind an "old thread" revival... (remember, I asked)....    but there's a lot of good info in it.

First, a picture to refer to (you can click on it for a larger view)...



First thing I wanted to point out, that when pivoting the blade (1 & 2 in the picture),,, on smaller blades it won't necessarily allow the belly/tip area to reach the LOC... but will drop below it.  So, length of the blade matters.

Second, depending on the setup, when you pivot the blade, you can actually "ride up" on part of the clamp (picture 3).  Can be avoided, but something to watch for.

The main reason I brought this thread up though, is honestly, even after reading thru this and the other related thread referenced... I've never been totally convinced that the original intent of the knife jig was to pivot the blade... but to merely lift the handle to follow the belly to tip area.  In part, based on Jeff Farris' video saying, lift don't rotate, (in fact he makes a point that pivoting is incorrect) and in part, it just doesn't seem a natural movement on many knives.  I understand the purpose... pivoting makes an attempt to maintain the same LOC... so the angle will stay the same... but am not really convinced that the curve of the stop on the jig was designed for this.  (I would swear that it wasn't even mentioned in the old manual... but maybe it's just Jeff's voice stuck in my head).

Lifting on the other hand, will also allow you to keep the same angle, depending on how you set up the clamp, (as seen in Jan's picture in this thread, although the pivot point would change), and to me, seems to be a more natural way to follow the shape of the knife when using the standard jig.  I try to illustrate in pictures 4 & 5... that when you lift the handle, you also change the orientation of the bevel in relation to the wheel... so that the angle is no longer totally dependent on where it is on the wheel, but also includes the "side angle" of the bevel in relation to the wheel.  Think of the extreme... if I stood to the side of the Tormek and sharpened a knife on top of and parallel to the wheel (doesn't have to be on top, but easier to visualize)... the angle would totally depend on the angle of the knife.  So, when setting the knife in the jig, by adjusting the belly/tip area closer or farther from the pivot point of the jig, this angle can be altered so that, even by merely lifting the handle...  the same (or at least similar) angle can be maintained throughout.  So, if you clamp the blade where the handle is lifted higher to reach the tip, you increase the angle... and the opposite if you clamp farther away from the tip.

It seemed in reading thru this thread, that the main focus was keeping the angle the same based on the LOC... and not what I'm describing.  And, obviously, I'm not saying pivoting doesn't work, (and it of course is the answer for freehanding where the blade is held level, or for Herman Trivilino's setup, etc.)... but I'm of the mind that with the standard jig setup, lifting the handle in many cases, may be the better option.

So, what say y'all? 

I was pleased to see the TTS setter modified for knives among your jigs.

That's my HanJig, serial number 1 !!

It appears your knife jigs have been modified too?  Any more info on that?

Kavik,

This seems like a workable solution for a small space. It could not only be a goid work stand for your Tormek, it could be a very compact, portable multipurpose table.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=32759&cat=46158,42665&ap=1

Ken

I've tried a folding table like that... not really sturdy enough IMO.  (Machine makes them 'top heavy').

Edit to add:  If you're looking for a small portable table, this one (attached picture) isn't too bad... it 20"x30", height adjusts from 21-28", and is fairly stable.  (Personally though, I like the 4ft. portable tables better).

Thanks cbwx 
I like yours too, as a stationary unit.
I don't know if you ever travel with yours, but I've seen similar foam inserts you can buy for drawers that could keep your stuff from shifting around if you do
...

The toolbox is 20"x12"x8.5"... so it's portable... (close to the same size as yours).

I put in "non-skid" drawer liner... so things don't move around.

I like it.

I use a 3 drawer Toolbox...

I was hoping that photobucket would concede that it was a bad idea, and at least offer an alternative for previously hosted pics... but so far no go.

Personally, I think... for a company to make that big a jump (0 to $400)... there's probably a bigger issue behind it they're trying to survive.  Wouldn't surprise me if they go under.  So if you have pics you want... I'd download them sooner than later.  (Just my personal opinion).

I too, was a 'victim' of the photobucket debacle.  I've had good luck using imgbb,,, free and pretty simple.  (Not sure if there's a downside to it).

As I mentioned, this came with 3 knife jigs...which is a bit confusing. I can only find reference to 2 different sizes anywhere on tormek's site.
What I've got here is the svm140, then something that looks to be an older version of the svm45 (functions and measurements are the same, just no model number stamped on it).
The third looks just like the svm140, but is only 100mm wide.
So the question is, was this an old version of the long knife jig? Or is this something different?

Can anyone suggest a method for sharpening a round knife / head knife?
It's a thin flat bladed knife with a semi circular edge, about 4-5" in diameter.
Here's an example on amazon
I don't have one here to experiment with yet, but looking to get one soon and just thinking ahead.  I don't expect it to be long enough to use the tool rest without the handle hitting the rest

Congrats on your purchase.  Sounds like a great deal.

This is the only part I can answer... the 100mm was an older version replaced by the 140mm "long knife jig".

I'll be interested if someone has an answer for the knife you linked to.  I have something similar... the only way I could do it on the Tormek was freehand... very carefully.

BTW, I think if you register on the main Tormek website, you can download an updated version of the manual.  Tons of info in the forum though... I'm finding new 'gems' every day.

Enjoy!

Thanks for the input.  It has inspired an idea to add a section of "commercial sharpening tips" (coming soon).  I too, have benefited over the years from Steve's knowledge... his "Sharpening Made Easy" book is also full of info, and was glad to see he put a few videos on YouTube (I linked to some already... more to come).

Thanks!

Started a blog post of links/references for sharpening knives on the Tormek... mainly to organize the excellent threads and posts I'm finding here.  Link will be in my signature, and will update it periodically.

Would love input, if you have a favorite thread, post, video etc.... any reference that would be of value!   

Thanks!

The angles are marked on the wheel from the top in 5˚ or 10˚ increments (your choice).  (Every .436in. or 10.90mm is 5˚ on a 250mm or 10in. stone, if my math is right).

Close enough. I'm getting about 10.91 mm or 0.429 in.

What are you using for a laser?

Thanks for checking my math.  (You're right, I used 10" instead of the correct 9.84" of a 250mm stone). 

The laser is a Black & Decker BDL220S.

My .02... I think cost and intended use are probably the main factors.  Space (mainly storage) would have to be at a premium... since, in use, you still need pretty much the same amount of room to work.  If mainly used for knives, (like me), the added jigs are of little value.  (I've maintained my stones with an XXC DMT for years, and have been able to keep it true, at least enough for knives... probably not accurate enough for the other uses though).  For the home user, cost of the larger stones may not be worth it, since you may never "wear out" even the smaller stone of the T-4.  So, lower cost, light use, and type of sharpening (knives) may point to the T-4.  And of course the reverse... heavier use, sharpening more than knives, need for the included accessories, etc. point to the T-8.  (That's my take anyway).