Quote from: Kavik on September 01, 2017, 06:13:59 AM
Well, finally got some time to finish this small collar idea tonight...... And gotta say it's much nicer than just the straight cut off version.
Turned a little nub on the end of some acrylic blank I had laying around here...but if i were too do it all over again, this could all be done with the stock collar piece chucked up in the lathe...I just felt I cut the first one a bit short anyway
Still no laser line, but i think i did better keeping to the LOC
Operation feels very very smooth. Setup was the same as mentioned previously with my template. Pivot point seems to remain on the side of the shaft (on the side towards the tip), not in the center of the jig shaft
As I hope you can see in the attached pic, the bevel width looks pretty good.
Bevel angle isn't perfect, but it's close all along the length (sorry, i don't have any fancy accurate measuring tools for that).
With the exception of a couple extremes (user error), the bevel width is 1 to 1.4mm. Again, without any serious measuring tools, i think this seems about right for the difference in blade thickness at the heel, belly, and tip
At this point I think i can do pretty well with this collar and setting up something to mark the LOC, with just a bit of practice.
Definitely finding it MUCH easier to keep smooth/even transitions and bevels than the wide stock collar was, so for this part I think I'm now satisfied
(apologies for the crap pictures, don't have any good options for resizing here in my phone too meet the attachment size limits while still keeping good detail)
P.S.
Also don't be thrown off by the crazy wide marker on the blade. I wanted to be sure to cover all the old grind experiments, so I just went with a really fat marker right up over the bevels and onto the face
Looks good! (Stylish too.)

With a stop collar, a "laser LOC" isn't as necessary. You can setup the knife in the jig, then set your sharpening angle with the AngleMaster (or however you do it), then just draw a line on the stone (or a reference point next to it), and with the power off, just check and see how the knife moves in relationship to the line, and adjust it in the jig, if needed. Experience tells me that after a few knives, you'll be able to set the knife in the jig, pretty much where it needs to be... especially now that your two pivot points are much closer together. The laser becomes more important when there's really nothing else to keep the same point on the stone (freehand or collar free).
I like it. Bevel looks good too.
