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I expect I watched that one back when I was looking at Tormeks in August 2017. Skipping through in now, it appears to cover the primary operations nicely.  The video that was most helpful for me was Alan Holtham's excellent video.  Another excellent resource on drill bit geometries is Joseph Mazoff's article.  The two of these were major reasons motivating me to get a Tormek.  Quite the rabbit hole for a while. 

Very timely, at least for me.  Recently, I viewed some YT videos reviewing a drill sharpening tool, this one branded "Vevor", but it appears to be one of those asian tools that all sorts pick up and put their own brand on.  There is a plethora of YT videos reviewing these drill sharpeners, so they must be making a blitz.  But here is a link to the YT video that best shows the alignment process and the image below is a screen capture an aligned 1/2" drill point.  Discussion of the drill point alignment process begins about 9:00 into the video.  There is a second video that goes into the actual drill sharpening. 

Point is, it has a specific "slot" for setting the projection length for the drill and orientation of the flutes for the second step which is the actual sharpening.  When I saw that, I thought similarly like you, that there needs to be something like that for the DBS-22.  I'm not at home for another day or two, so can't fiddle with it.  It also has a moveable height feature which sets the lip orientation based on the diameter of the drill. 

One of the things I've noticed about that alignment step is that the instructions say to line it up using that viewing device such that the lip is parallel with the pointer, but I have found that it needs to be rotated slightly higher so there is material that gets removed to RESULT in the flute lip being parallel with the pointer.

Some time after I return home, I'm going to look at what might be done for coming up with an alignment jig for the DBS clamp.  I had difficulty following your train of thought, so it will be interesting to see where you get with it.

Rick

Thanks for the reply Rick
I think I understand what your saying, so my t8 which has a df250 on it which i use to sharpen all my hand tools, will accept the df200 on the t8 shaft, but for badly damaged blades i would be better off with a more traditional stone set up?
Haven't had my t8 long so quite new to a sharpening systems like this
wain

I misread, missing that you are asking about putting a T4 sized wheel on a T8.  I don't know how well it fits.  There may be a difference in the shaft length and width of the wheels.  What I said about using a traditional grinding wheel on either a T4 or T8 stands.

Rick

I would think a chipper blade would be badly damaged and need quite a lot of grinding.  I would not want to try to do that with just a "DF" (fine diamond) wheel. 

I'd think a traditional grinder/grinding wheel might be better suited for that job.

But, if you really want to use your T4, I think a really good option would be to mount a traditional 8" grinding wheel, such as a Norton 3X on it.  I have a T8 and did this before I had any diamond wheels and before I had a slow speed grinder or Viel belt grinder.  It worked very well for heavier metal removal, ran it in the water just like a Tormek wheel so no overheating issues and trued it using the Tormek truing tool. (Video shows truing a no-name, 10" grinding wheel, but it is the same as with any other wheel.)

Try doing a search on "Norton 3X" and read the various discussions. 

Rick

...snip...
When I went to remove (SG-250) I couldn't budget loose the nut. The wheels turn.  Holy smokes it's like "locked" tight. ...snip...
🙂

The honing wheel is pinned to the drive wheel so it should not be able to spin.  Are you saying the grinding wheel spins on the shaft, but the EZLock nut is what is locked?  If so, that is a new one. 

If I were face with that, I'd remove the shaft/wheel/nut, from the machine and clamp the shaft in my lathe (so the shaft is not damaged by clamping) and use a wrench on the nut.  I believe you also posted on FaceBook and expressed there that you were aware that the nut is left hand, which means it rotates clockwise to loosen, looking straight at it. 

You also may want to contact Tormek support.  Please report back on any responses you get from them.

Rick

I have never tried this but I wonder. Regarding the off center sharpening of the older Tormek knife jigs. As some of you know, some Japanese knives are sharpened on one side only. Would that make the older jigs useful since they "prefer" one side over the other?

If there's an advantage, I don't see it.  You'd still have to match the angle on the one side, and it wouldn't match anything on the other side that I can see anyway...

I agree there isn't an advantage.  The unequal bevels result from the blade being not centered in the jig jaws and really only results when the blade is ground on both sides, turning the assembly over to do so.  Grinding a one-sided beveled knife, you would do just that, grind only one side and not turn it over, ever, except perhaps to hone it flat. 

Rick

Welcome to the forum.

A grindstone stuck/locked on the shaft has been discussed here regularly.  I cannot offer anything, but wonder if you could learn a lot by doing some searches to find some of the previous discussions.  A lot of it has had to do with pre-stainless steel shaft/EZLock nut machines, but I'm sure there have been some with the new shaft/nut. 

Here is one that came up using the search string "stuck shaft", the "" returning only that string and not numerous posts with just one of the words. 

Rick

I converted two Viel belt grinders to variable speed and the 3 3/4" drive pulley several years ago. I described how to do this in the general conversation section of bessex.com.
...snip...
A belt grinder is a useful complement to the Tormek, especially when run at slow speed.Anyone interested should contact Steve at sharpeningmadeeasy.com.

Ken

I also did the variable speed motor/pulley mod on a Viel and documented it on the bessec.com site, in 2019. I was very happy with it and modified it is other ways for working with Tormek jigs, etc. 

I did find that the PSI motor didn't run slow enough for my liking, so despite a warning from PSI to not mess with the three tiny pots inside the control box, I did and am even happier with it. 

I have most recently purchased the 3/4 HP PSI motor to put on an Atlas/Craftsman 6" lathe, to replace the 1/3 HP AC motor, specifically for the variable speed feature.  Haven't installed it yet due to other priorities, but it will happen soon. 

Rick

Not entirely clear on your issue with the MB-102, but it sounds like you are getting a lower bevel angle around the curved part of blades as a result of lifting.  I have found this also when I tried to keep the location of contact between the blade and the grinding wheel in the same relative location, often referred to as the Line of Contact, or "LOC".  The solution I use is to move the location where the blade contacts the grinding wheel (LOC) closer to the USB as I lift the blade.  This steepens the angle as the blade is lifted.  It is a moving situation - that is, as the curve gets greater closer to the tip, the LOC gets closer to the USB.  When using the vertical USB, this would be moving the LOC "up" the grinding wheel and when using the horizontal USB, "down" the wheel. 

I'm not at all clear on how the MB-102 factors in to this, at least when using it as an FVB in the horizontal USB sleeves, as what is happening is a relationship between the blade and wheel.  If you are working on the side of the grinding wheel, I think it would be the same thing, shifting the LOC closer to the USB as the blade is lifted. 

I used to use a lazer line to indicate the LOC but it died and I get along just fine without it now.  I think that is a matter of having learned how to migrated the LOC relative to the amount of blade curvature. 

Hopefully I've interpreted your question reasonably well.  Early on in my knife sharpening with a T8, I was plagued by these wider/shallower bevels on the curves but that was because I wasn't lifting at all.  Once I started lifting, it helped a lot, but then I had to figure out about moving the LOC. 

Rick

Well, I bit the bullet and bought an MB-102.  I wasn't much interested at first because I already have an MB-100 and a shop-made FVB.  However, I use the FVB on my bench grinder and belt grinder, so I really need three.  I don't use the belt grinder much, but do use the bench grinder a fair bit, which has an 8" dia., 80 grit CBN on it (not shown in pic below).  Thus, two FVBs should work fairly well. 

I'm amused by the musings about alignment accuracy. My thought is that it will be self aligning with the first locking knob being secured.  This will force that shaft into the bottom of the USB sleeve and cause it to be fairly well aligned with the centerline of the USB sleeve, which hopefully and expectantly, should be machined parallel and/or perpendicular with the machine grinding wheel shaft.  No guarantee of that, but by assumption, we all rely on this for both sets of USB sleeves.  So, my though is to tighten one knob securely and then the other and proceed with remaining steps. 

It would be easy to check the assumption of squareness by examining the gap between a USB set very close to a diamond wheel, which itself is presumed to have been machined (and coated) square.  Not sure it can be assumed that a just-trued grinding wheel would be, as it is likely trued in whatever plane in which the vertical USB is set. 

Rick

...snip...
You can (and I) actually use the caliper the other way... I just took the photo that way.  (Thought it'd be easier to see...) 
...snip...

Shared many times, amazing how often it comes up.  My solution is to use a woodworker's marking gauge, first setting the desired distance using the depth rod of any caliper. 

Rick

...
Sure does to me and it alleviates all need to know or care about those "constants". 

Rick

"Constants" also flush out curmudgeons.   

Badge of Honor 

[Measuring directly to the frame sees so much more direct.]

I have never understood the reason for measuring to the frame instead of the wheel.
I realize this method was advocated by Wootz; I just never understood understood why. Measuring directly to the frame sees so much more direct.

Ken

Do you mean "directly to the wheel" seems so much more direct... ?

Sure does to me and it alleviates all need to know or care about those "constants". 

Rick

I wonder if it won't take "refreshing" the entire surface in the same manner as the Truing Tool does for the grindstones, except in a flat surface plane, sort of like a surface grinder.  Don't have a clue "how" one would do that, but...   

Maybe a very coarse diamond plate?  Or maybe, better to just use a coarse diamond plate to do the stone grading and skip the stone grader.

Rick

Scissors Jig?  If the blade does not come off the shaft, maybe position the shaft between the two clamps on the jig. 

Rick