Topics

I have wondered about who began this forum and that person's intentions for it.

I have only been a member since 2009. At that time, no one had posted the fifty posts in order to qualify as a junior member.  Of those actively posting at that time, only Herman and I are still active.  The most active posts only had around twenty postings.

After a very cursory glance, it would appear the forum may have begun in 2003.  (That's when Jeff's data should his membership began.)  I am curious as to how much Tormek AB in Sweden has been involved in either the startup or ongoing direction of the forum.  I would also be interested in learning the founding expectation "parameters" for the forum.

I have not seen any posts from anyone directly associated with Tormek AB.  I have received two emails from an official in the company in Sweden.  I had posted a comment critical (in  a constructive way) of what I believed was a lack of video training aids.  For the record, I still feel that lack remains.

The founders apparently did not envision having photos included with posts.  While this may have been more difficult in 2003, I have not seen any effort put forth by the forum administration to facilitate posting photographs.

I have continued my grumbling about the lack of good training material in several private intraforum emails.  I believe Tormek AB is missing a very good opportunity to increase sales by leaving so many users lacking confidence.  I think it would be a fine addition to this forum to include solid training materials presented in an organized way which would not necessitate the iffy search protocols.

My impish side thought we should offer this help in at least two languages.  I would call them "fish and chips" and "Big Mac".  We are, after all, "two nations divided by a common language".  Including local terms together with explanation would add spice to the learning.

I have doubts as to who would take charge of such a project.  While we have some enthusiastic helpers, in my opinion, the only person on this forum with the breadth and depth of Tormek knowledge and field experience is Jeff.  Such a project might involve a lot more time than administering a forum.  To do the project well should involve photos, illustrations, and video. 

Perhaps a good start would be an article about setting up the Tormek and sharpening a chisel.  A second article might be sharpening and maintaining knives.

Because of the nature of the forum, the project could start small and evolve.

I welcome your thoughts.

Ken

When I purchased my first Tormek in 2009, the knife jig was the first accessory I added.  When  first looked at it, I noticed the sloppy casting and was not impressed.  I tried it with one of my knives with so so results, and put it away. I went back to my preferred method of using a 1000 grit waterstone.

Recently I have been thinking I should give the knife jig another chance.  I may have not properly factored in the possibility of operator inexperience.

Today was that second chance.  Either the jig improved with hibernation or my skills may have grown.  Within a very short time four of my favorite kitchen knives are now paper cutting sharp. I am impressed.  I took out my trusty six inch mill file and smoothed up the casting.  (Maybe my jig was made on a Friday or another less than optimum time.)  The sloppy casting is now forgotten.

If anyone in Sweden is reading this, not cleaning up the casting does not leave a positive first impression.  Fortunately examining the EZYlock shaft was much more impressive.

Ken

I am in the process of rehabbing my closets.  I really like the versatility of Closetmaid adjustable shelving.

In the past, I have hung the vertical supports using a level.  Since the move last year, I am now starting with the horizontal support bars.  That lets me place the vertical supports without being so dependent upon screwing them into a stud.

I finally purchased a twelve bolt impact driver.  What a tool!  No more aerobic exercises with a screwdriver.  I have an older drill driver, but never liked worrying about camming out the screw.  The impact driver does a much better job.

As a homeowner, I appreciate the smaller, lighter size of the twelve volt tools. The new llithium batteries seem much improved over the old ni-cads.

I purchased a close out.  The company (Milwaukee) has redesigned the tools with improved brushless motors.  Ideally, I would have purchased the improved models.  However, for my use, last year's tradesman models are more than sufficient.  I don't predict much use for my longtime favorite Yankee screwdrivers in the future.

Ken

Jeff,

Would you please post your demo schedule on the forum?  I believe many of us, myself included, would enjoy meeting you and watching you put the Tormek through its paces.  It would be an enjoyable learning experience.

A lot of the shows also feature discounts.  We might even bring our wallets (and our knives with broken points!).

Thanks,

Ken

When I was a kid, I remember a billboard for a Pennsylvania Dutch restaurant that read, "Get to know what good is."

I believe these two short videos from Fine Woodworking show "what sharp is".

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/106038/9-reasons-why-i-dont-sharpen-my-plane-blades-as-well-as-i-thought?&lookup=auto&V18=&V19=&V20=&V21=&V22=&V23=&V24=&V25=&V26=&V53=&V54=&Taun_Per_Flag=true&utm_source=email&utm_medium=eletter&utm_content=20130216-nonsense-knife&utm_campaign=fine-woodworking-eletter

Enjoy, 

Ken

I saw this in the description of the T 7 in the Black Friday sale ad:

"new electronic on/off safety switch"

I wasn't aware of any problems with the older switch.  Does anyone know why the switch was switch, and when?

Ken

I think the turners would enjoy the link to the video I posted in hand tools.

Ken

I enjoyed this, and thought the forum would, also.  The program includes an interview with President Carter and wood turning.

http://thehighlandwoodworker.com/?et_mid=581752&rid=5728235

Ken

Bradley, you mention using the Shapton stones.  I have used the Norton water stones for quite a while with good success.  (Better success since I do the initial work on the Tormek).

I have wondered if the finer Shapton stones (above 8000) give a noticeably longer lasting edge?  Have you noticed anything one way or another?

Thanks,

Ken

I finally had a chance to fire up my DBS-22 (drill bit grinding jig).  As promised, here are my initial thoughts on the jig.

The jig seems very well engineered and well machined.  Impressive.  It also seems very versatile.  I suspect its versatility is largely wasted on average users, although anyone doing a lot of specialized metal drilling would appreciate its flexibility.

Set up is not as difficult as one might think.  Developing a "by the numbers" mind set helps in set up.  Another help is keeping things as simple as possible.  The example which comes to mind is the point angle setting.  The jig will handle angles from ninety to one hundred and fifty degrees.  I would suggest leaving the 118 degree setting fixed until one has really mastered the jig.

The distance between the grinding wheel and the Universal Support Bar is easily set with the included template.  Set it and let it remain a constant instead of a variable.

The protrusion of the drill bit beyond the holder is set with a stop on the jig.  This is another smart constant. 

By leaving the point angle at the standard 118 degrees and leaving USB distance and bit protrusion as designed, the jig is noticeably simpler to use. 

The same template used to set the USB distance is also used to set the clearance angle.  It has four settings from seven to fourteen degrees and a table of recommended angles for different diameter bits.  It is a simple setting.

The only setting which is tricky is the depth of cut screw.  My first sharpened bit is at least respectable, so setting the depth is not really difficult.  it will just take some more experience to become more proficient with setting the depth.

I like the four facet cut.  It should cut down on the bits skating before actually cutting.  As a practical observation, the instructions state the secondary faces are not necessary when reaming (enlarging) a hole.  For those of you who can access the finewoodworking membership site, Ernie Conover has done an excellent you tube on precision drilling of wood with regular bits.  For a precision size hole he suggests using a small pilot hole, then a bit close to final size and then the final size bit.  Not quick, but very accurate.

The instructions do not specifically address the issue, but I cannot see any benefit from using the fine graded stone on the secondary faces.  The cutting is done only by the primary faces.  I can see the possible benefit of regrading the stone with the primary faces.  I would regrade the stone and smooth the primary faces before setting the jig for the secondary faces.  (I would regrade the stone to coarse before grinding the secondary faces.  That would also leave the stone ready to grind the next bit.)

Is the jig worth the money?  I confess I bought mine at a very attractive (possibly mismarked) price compounded by a 20% discount due a tool show.  I was the first customer through the door and immediately bought the DBS-22.  By the way, the "22" is 22 millimeters (7/8"), the maximum bit size the jig will handle.  3mm (1/8") is the minimum.  I think it is worthwhile, but I am a Tormek junky.

I have no experience with any other drill bit jigs except grinding by hand and using a file.  I'm not skilled at either of these.  The Tormek has the advantage of consistency while removing the minimum of metal and not overheating the bits.

I happen to have a black wheel, however, I believe the drill jig should work all right with the standard wheel.

I would welcome comments, especially from those who have used the jig more than I have.  (If you have sharpened three bits or more, that means you.)

Ken

When I get settled into my new workshop, I plan to build a work station for my Tormek.  I have the DVD and measured drawing for Norm Abram's design.  I plan to use that as a starting point.

Norm's design was made before multiple grinding wheels were available.  I have the SB and SJ wheels.  I am wondering how they should be stored in the work station.  Horizontally or vertically?  Should any procedures be followed to allow them to dry after use?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Ken

I just received my replacement Tormek.  As I posted earlier, my T-7 was stolen during a burglary.  The thief stole the Tormek unit itself, but not my diamond truing tool, universal Support Bar, stone grader,water trough or SE-76.  The loss was not covered by insurance (no content coverage on a vacant dwelling during a move).

I asked a knowledgeable person I trust for advice.  He told me to contact Hanns at Advanced Machinery.  (My local dealer was not interested in selling an unadorned T-7.) Hanns treated me right.  My new T-7 arrived earlier this week.  It has the SE-76 and honing compound.  It does not have the universal support bar, diamond tool or stone grader.

The discounted unit included the free RB-180 and free shipping.

I can use the honing compound.  Also, I will experiment with sharpening two chisels at a time. (Actually I can do three, as Ionut helped me procure one of the older model jigs for sharpening mortising chisels.)

Unfortunately, I do not believe my original T-7 will ever be recovered.  On the off chance it is, I will use one unit with my SJ 250 wheel. 

So, thanks, knowledgeable one, and thanks, Hanns, for the fine service.

Ken

I want to move two upper cabinets from my laundry room to the basement.  Each cabinet is secured to the wall with three Phillips head screws.  My standard Phillips screwdriver won't budge them.  My 18 volt drill/driver removed one part way, while partially destroying the screw head.

I needed a good "plan B".

I tried Lowe's and Home Depot without success.  Finally I tried Sears.  I wanted a Phillips #2 screwdriver on the front and a 3/8" square drive for a socket wrench on the back end.  Sears carries them.  It should give me the leverage to remove the screws without camming them out.

Ken

I purchased most of my bench planes in 1972. ( #4,5, and 7, all well cared for 1909 vintage Stanley Bedrocks).  Since then, I added a #6 Bailey from a now defunct antique store in Opal, VA and a $15 #5 Bailey from a local antique store.  No bench planes added in over fifteen years.

I just purchased a nice #3 type 11 (1910-1919 vintage) Stanley.  The price on ebay (49.95) was on the high side, however, the plane is in very fine condition.  It will require only a minor tune up an should be a trooper.  Ernie Conover taught me how to tune bench planes.  I am looking forward to the pleasant task.

The smaller size should work well with a lot of my work.  At 62, I don't plan large projects.  Also, it will be a nice beginning size in a few years for my grandchildren.

This size will be set up as a finely set smoothing plane.  I don't plan to adjust the throat opening once set.  It won't see heavy duty use.  The quick set frog of the Bedrock or Lie-Nielesn  would be wasted on me.

Any #3 users out there?

Ken

I have a pair of rounded end Wiss scissors. They were a special purchase from Lee Valley, and quite well made.  I recently discovered just how sharp they are.

One of the blades had some sticky substance on it.  I put some Goo Gone on a paper towel and rubbed it along the blade.  It not only removed the gunk, it also made quite an incision on my finger tip.

The moral of this story is to keep your fingers well away from the blades when cleaning.

Ken

I have a couple plastic handled "butt" chisels dating back to the late fifties.  They have a Fuller brand on the handle, and may have been made by Buck Brothers.  They certainly qualify as "garden variety" utility chisels.

I recently ground the bevel on one (1" width") to thirty degrees instead of the usual twenty five degrees.  (New Lie-Nielsen chisels come ground to thirty degrees.)

I have since used that chisel for a couple jobs which would scare off a finely tuned top drawer chisel.  The last job was removing some long dried caulk on a flat window surface.  I have also used it for some mild prying.  Sorry if I offend the purists on the forum.  We all have those jobs to do from time to time.

I was surprised how well the edge has held up.  With the old twenty five degree bevel, I'm sure i would have needed a regrind by now.  A gentle rehoning might be in order, but the edge is still very functional.

By the way, I only ground the first third of the old bevel to the new setting.  Butt chisels are short enough without overgrinding.

Any thoughts?

Ken

Hi, all.  Sometime in the last week my house was robbed.  Among the stolen items was my Tormek.

If anyone finds a nice used Tormek T7 for sale in the Columbus, Ohio area, please post it on the forum.  It has a blue cover, the EZY  lock shaft, but no water pan, wheel dresser, angle guide or instructions.  If anyone finds a Tormek like this at a pawn shop in the Columbus area, please notify the store owner that it may be stolen and post the name of the store.  The Columbus police department has a report on this, as well as some of my other Milwaukee and Porter Cable tools.

Thanks.

Ken 

This weekend I transported my Tormek to my new house (a hundred fifty mile trip)  I know it's overkill, however, I removed the grinding wheel prior to moving it.  The EZY Lock shaft made wheel removal a snap.  Removing the wheel made carrying the lightweight Tormek a pleasure.  Five stars for the EZY Lock.

Ken

I finally purchased a DVD and measured shop drawing of Norm Abram's Sharpening Station for the Tormek.  It seems a well designed cabinet for the Tormek and accessories.  (Jeff, does it have enough drawer space for the new extra wheels?)

Watching Jeff's demonstration, I had forgotten that the angle master is supposed to contact the wheel at two points, not just on the rounded part.  As I may not be the only dummy to overlook this, I am posting it.

Ken

Those of you who have read my past posts know I am a believer in starting with a simple chisel to become familiar with the Tormek.

Last weekend I repaired some dinette chairs.  Cleaning out some old broken tenon parts from mortises was the kind of job one would not do with a prize chisel.  This afternoon I resharpened those chisels.  My shop is presently in flux, so I set my Tormek on an old countertop sitting on two saw horses in the shaded front of my garage.  This sounds quite primitive, but the open shade daylight was excellent light and the day was comfortable.  The importance of really good light cannot be emphasized too much.  Before I tried setting up the Tormek outdoors, the angle master seemed very iffy and poorly designed to me.  I was amazed how much difference really good light made.

The first chisel was a one inch Fuller butt chisel. It  bears a remarkable resemblance to some of the off brands manufactured by Buck Brothers.  It is about fifty years old and has seen jobs a prize chisel wouldn't touch.  The blade length is barely long enough to work in the SE-76.

I carefully squared the chisel in the jig, and noticed the jig would not slide properly.  The problem was that I had inadvertently inserted the chisel backward.  (mdelgado, maybe this might have been part of your problem, too) 

Given the rough nature of this chisel's work, I decided to change the bevel angle from 25 to 30 degrees.  (New Lie-Nielsen chisels leave the factory with a 30 degree bevel.)  With the stone graded coarse, the new bevel was established in reasonable time.  Actually, due to the short length of the blade, I only ground the new bevel about halfway. I ground until the bevel not only looked good, but raised a burr the whole width of the blade.  I graded the stone fine and ground a little more.

Then some stropping with the leather honing wheel and some rust preventative spray.

The second chisel was a quarter inch crank neck Buck Brothers.  It is not as long as some of the patternmaker chisels, but is very useful.  The chisel was not really dull, but the edge was not quite square of straight.  The Tormek made quick work of it.

This afternoon reaffirmed my belief in the value of beginning with a chisel to become familiar with the operation of the Tormek.  I would repeat Herman's suggestion of beginning with a chisel which isn't too far away from being sharp.

I'm not completely sold yet on the leather honing wheel. Since Jeff uses is so successfully, I will leave the jury out for a while.  I am sold on the Tormek for grinding which never overheats the steel, and is easier on my hands than stones.

I would welcome your comments.

Ken