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[. However,the amount of insertion in the clamp jaws can can be varied from 2 to almost 13 mm. That is a range of almost 12mm.]

#1

Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123

Last post by cbwx34 - Today at 04:00:26 PM

...
Just out of curiousity, has anyone determined the range of blade widths that can be set to the same projection using the KJ jigs?  It would be a matter of how deeply the spine of each blade is gripped in the KJ jaws, correct?  Can't be very much and still have a good grip on the narrower blades.

Ken posted this a while back... (I haven't verified it).

3D,

You have posted a well done, balanced comparison. I do have some thoughts on comment: " * Handle/stop is fixed, so you can't adjust projection distance".
I agree somewhat; the end stop is not threaded and cannot be adjusted. However,
the amount of insertion in the clamp jaws can can be varied from 2 to almost 13 mm. That is a range of almost 12mm. Most kitchen knives fall in the range of 12 mm to 50 mm. This translates to four or five kenjig style Projection settings. Admittedly, one pre 2002 SVM-45 jig can handle this entire range.

I do not intend to imply that the KJ-45 is as convenient to adjust as the
SVM-45. I only want to state that the KJ-45 is not entirely "fixed" in Projection.

Ken

#2

Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123

Last post by cbwx34 - Today at 03:53:10 PM

Thanks, my frustration was channeled that way. And it does offer repeatability, but 15.5 degrees per side might be 15 degrees.

You could always check it against a calculator app, but if you're within 1/2 a degree making that from, I'm guessing pictures? Hats off.  I wouldn't worry about it.

(That level of accuracy is a bit overhyped anyway.)

To be honest, I was totally wrong about repeatability. It turned out to be far off on smaller pocket knifes. Anyhow I'm expecting a new one today.

Interesting.  Well, at least it kept you distracted waiting for the replacement. 

#3

Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123

Last post by RickKrung - Today at 03:52:24 PM

For those who have experience with this jig : how easy is it to replicate a protrusion distance with it along with a SVM jig ? Simple enough or is it easier to take a separate measurement using the wood-block method ?

Thanks !

There's no difference in using the KJ vs the SVM jig to set up the KS-123.

BTW, for a bit of trivia, the KS handles a Projection Distance of 122-158 mm.

These are questions I'm going to be interested in exploring, soon.  I picked up the new angle setting tool at a retail store recently, but I'm not at home, so haven't been able to try it out.  I have a KJ jig but have not been a fan of it yet due to the inability to adjust the protrusion (using the moveable stop as on the SVM jigs).  I'm glad to see the projection range values for the KS-123, I've been wondering about that. I read folks saying the KS is "fast and easy" to use, but unless the knife projection is exactly the same from one knife to another, one has to change the USB height for each different projection.  I realize it may be possible to set projections the same using the KJ jigs, within a limited range, but it is just not the same as the SVM where the range is much wider. 

I have 6 SVMs (4 45s and 2 140s) so can set up, up to six knives with exactly the same projection and run through all six, and can run all six across four grinding wheels (180 CBN, DC, DF and DE) without changing the USB height.  That is fast and easy and will be what I compare with when trying out the combination of the KJ and KS. 

Just out of curiousity, has anyone determined the range of blade widths that can be set to the same projection using the KJ jigs?  It would be a matter of how deeply the spine of each blade is gripped in the KJ jaws, correct?  Can't be very much and still have a good grip on the narrower blades. 

#4

Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123

Last post by cbwx34 - Today at 03:48:07 PM

I understand that ^^

I might not have been clear enough : I was thinking of how when you set the whole thingamajig up with a given protrusion distance, and you want to use the adjustability of the SVM to setup another knife for the same sharpening angle. Ie not adjust the jig to the second knife then adjust USB, but rather use the SVM handle to adjust the protrusion distance to match that of the first knife without touching the USB. Does it make sense ?

Ah, it does now.

You could just leave the KS jig set at the desired Protrusion, then for the second knife snap on the KS jig and hold the SVM stop against the USB and move it in or out until it matches.  I don't think one would be easier than the other?... other than you'd have to attach the KS jig each time, vs having the wood block sitting there might be a bit easier.

#5

Knife Sharpening / Re: thoughts on SVM and KJ kni...

Last post by cbwx34 - Today at 03:38:10 PM

Old thread alert.

I found it when searching for full flat grind and KJ-45. I have some issues with KJ-45 when it comes to knives that tapers off, like spyderco knives but also fillet knives since the blade height(?) is so small, hope you anderstand what I mean. Blades like that has so much taper so that the jig can't get a good grip, besides the problem with the blade resting towards on side of the jig, giving uneven bevels.

My workaround have been various tiny wedges in plastic, metal and wood where the latter have had the best grip, one on each side.


Do you have any tips when it comes to clamp knives with a more aggressive taper? KJ-can handle a bit of taper but I have many knives where I have to use wedges to get a decent grip.

Did the former jig have the same problem?

I don't know if it's possible, but replacing the No 3 screw for a longer one could be an option.  Even if it could lead to other issues like the knob touching the stone instead of the bevel of the knife.

I think it was worse on the SVM jig.

A couple of things to try... one is to make sure the rear screw (4) doesn't touch at all when setting the front screw.  The second is, you may need to loosen the front screw to get a better grip on tapered knives.  For most knives I set the front screw by loosely tightening it... stopping at the slightest pressure, then tighten the back screw.  For tapered knives I find that by loosely tightening the front screw, then backing out between 1/4 to 1 turn, then tightening the back screw, allows the clamp to better conform to the blade shape.

Also instead of wedges, try something like a thin piece of leather or rubber wrapped around the spine.

#6

Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123

Last post by tgbto - Today at 03:30:19 PM

There's no difference in using the KJ vs the SVM jig to set up the KS-123.

BTW, for a bit of trivia, the KS handles a Projection Distance of 122-158 mm.

I understand that ^^

I might not have been clear enough : I was thinking of how when you set the whole thingamajig up with a given protrusion distance, and you want to use the adjustability of the SVM to setup another knife for the same sharpening angle. Ie not adjust the jig to the second knife then adjust USB, but rather use the SVM handle to adjust the protrusion distance to match that of the first knife without touching the USB. Does it make sense ?

#7

Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123

Last post by cbwx34 - Today at 03:18:52 PM

For those who have experience with this jig : how easy is it to replicate a protrusion distance with it along with a SVM jig ? Simple enough or is it easier to take a separate measurement using the wood-block method ?

Thanks !

There's no difference in using the KJ vs the SVM jig to set up the KS-123.

BTW, for a bit of trivia, the KS handles a Projection Distance of 122-158 mm.

#8

Knife Sharpening / Re: thoughts on SVM and KJ kni...

Last post by Swemek - Today at 02:59:44 PM

Old thread alert.

I found it when searching for full flat grind and KJ-45. I have some issues with KJ-45 when it comes to knives that tapers off, like spyderco knives but also fillet knives since the blade height(?) is so small, hope you anderstand what I mean. Blades like that has so much taper so that the jig can't get a good grip, besides the problem with the blade resting towards on side of the jig, giving uneven bevels.

My workaround have been various tiny wedges in plastic, metal and wood where the latter have had the best grip, one on each side.


Do you have any tips when it comes to clamp knives with a more aggressive taper? KJ-can handle a bit of taper but I have many knives where I have to use wedges to get a decent grip.

Did the former jig have the same problem?

I don't know if it's possible, but replacing the No 3 screw for a longer one could be an option.  Even if it could lead to other issues like the knob touching the stone instead of the bevel of the knife.
 

#9

Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123

Last post by tgbto - Today at 02:48:47 PM

For those who have experience with this jig : how easy is it to replicate a protrusion distance with it along with a SVM jig ? Simple enough or is it easier to take a separate measurement using the wood-block method ?

Thanks !

#10

Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123

Last post by darita - Today at 02:42:17 PM

Boy, has this jig simplified my setup process. I'm thrilled with the elimination of formulas and measurements. This thing is genius.