Rusty Main Shaft

[Herman Trivilino]

I bought my Tormek Supergrind 2000 back in 2002.  I've been using it all these years, and ignored the warning signs of wear: squealing bearings.  But the other day the main shaft would no longer spin unless I exerted a lot of torque by hand, so it was time to take it apart and see what's what.  The grindstone had worn from the original diameter of 250 mm to about 200 mm.  I broke it trying to free it from the main shaft. 

If I had it to do over I would have instead removed the drive wheel from the other end of the main shaft, and then driven the main shaft out still attached to the grindstone.  The main shaft was rusted around and into the bearing at the grindstone end of the main shaft, so I don't know if I could have done it this way without breaking the grindstone.  But it would have been worth a try.

So, anyway, after breaking the grindstone, I chipped away the rust from the main shaft, which was quite a job.  The grindstone had pretty much melded itself into the rust-encrusted mainshaft.  I had to chip rust away just to remove the bearing from the main shaft.  I managed to get it cleaned up and lubricated, installed a new grindstone, and I was back in business.  Except for one thing.  The new grindstone wobbles, and so does the honing wheel.

So, I've ordered a new main shaft (MSK-250 Upgrade kit) and I'm hoping that'll fix me up.

My question is this: What do you think caused all the rust?  And what can I do to prevent it from recurring?  One thing I used to do was leave the water in the tray after each use.  I think that leaving the water in the tray could cause the grindstone to wick the water in the tray up into the center of the grindstone, keeping the main shaft wet and causing it to rust.

I'm hoping that the new stainless steel main shaft, along with the practice of not leaving water in the tray, will help prevent this from recurring.  The other thing I plan to do is use a dust cover.

Is there anything else I can do to help keep the machine in good working order?

[Jeff Farris]

Herman,

The stainless main shaft will prevent this from happening again.  You're right that leaving water in the tray caused the problem originally.  To be honest, it took a great deal of vigilance to prevent rust with the old shafts. Now, it's not a problem.

[Herman Trivilino]

Yesterday the new main shaft arrived (MSK-250).  You recommend Tri-Flo or Slick-50 One-Lube as a lubricant for the bearings?  I guess I shouldn't use regular axle grease, or lithium grease? 

[Jeff Farris]

White lithium is fine, but  be stingy with it.  It doesn't need much.

[Herman Trivilino]

The MSK-250 doesn't include the right-handed nut that secures the drive wheel!  Is this intentional?

[Herman Trivilino]

Installed the new main shaft today, and am happy to report a wobble-free grindstone.  Now, I should be ready to go another 7 years!  Longer, probably, because I won't have to worry about rust on the main shaft. 

[katiedobe]

Thanks for posting this, I will go and take a look at mine and consider upgrading the shaft also.

[cesnyderces]

For what it's worth, I've noticed my stone rusting a bit if I leave it overnight.  I've taken to cleaning it out the water tray everytime I finish using it. I know I have the stainless steel shaft, but even stainless will rust given time.  As for the rust on the stone, I'm sure it has little or no operational affect on it.  I was amazed at how quickly it would stain.  I love my T-7 tho, how fast it works.  I am curious to see what it would look like after 7 years.

[tb444]

I have found that Honerite Gold, made by shield technologies is extremely useful for preventing rust. It comes as a concentrate that you mix with the water, and makes the water not cause rust. It sounds too good to be true but it does actually work. I'm surprised Tormek haven't released their own branded version as it is great for grinding carbon steels and for preventing rust of the Tormek itself.
http://shieldtechnology.biz/toolcareproducts.html

[sharpie]

I have found that Honerite Gold, made by shield technologies is extremely useful for preventing rust. It comes as a concentrate that you mix with the water, and makes the water not cause rust. It sounds too good to be true but it does actually work. I'm surprised Tormek haven't released their own branded version as it is great for grinding carbon steels and for preventing rust of the Tormek itself.
http://shieldtechnology.biz/toolcareproducts.html

I have found the same products available here in the states. visit http://www.boratool.com/hone-right-gold-250ml , it really works well.

[dopauls]

Like many others here, I have a Supergrind 2000 that I have had for probably 20-25 years (pre-serial number) and I have the rusted shaft problem and want to replace it.  Do I need to have anything other than the new MSK-250 stainless steel shaft?   Any other nuts or bushings needed?

[Elden]

   Welcome to the forum. I believe that it includes the necessary items. The bushings are included. You will need to use your old nut that retains the drive wheel and the knob for the honing wheel. Hopefully your grinding wheel is not bonded to the old shaft. If it is, it is quite a process to get the grinding wheel off without cracking it.

[SharpenADullWitt]

As Elden said, it comes with the stainless shaft, the quick release left hand thread nut, and two bushings.  First you do need to get the stone off without breaking it, or you need to buy a new stone.  You also need the grease that you were supposed to use (that didn't keep it from rusting), to lubricate the bushings as well as coating the shaft.  I used Superlube, because it was what I had handy.
I would also recommend having some sandpaper handy, in case the rubber wheel is developing a bump, or feels hard.

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Doug (dopauls). If you go to the upgrades tab on tormek.com, you will find a video by Alan Holtham showing changing out the shaft to the EZYlock. Incidentally, the "dry side" parts are not included in the kit because they normally do not rust. From personal experience, unless Tormek has included a diagram, I would make a sketch during disassembly. The procedure is not complicated or lengthy. (unless your grinding wheel is frozen)

Keep us posted.

Ken

[dopauls]

Thank you all.  I will keep you updated on my progress.

Doug