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#81
General Tormek Questions / Tormek TC-800 case and HTK-00 ...
Last post by dominicgarcia - October 17, 2024, 11:17:31 AMHi,
I live in Denmark and I am looking to buy this set, but only one supplier is selling the case and storage tray here in Denmark and it won't be in stock for 2-3 months. Anyone know where I can buy in within EU? Anyone selling it second-hand?
Best regards
I live in Denmark and I am looking to buy this set, but only one supplier is selling the case and storage tray here in Denmark and it won't be in stock for 2-3 months. Anyone know where I can buy in within EU? Anyone selling it second-hand?
Best regards
#82
General Tormek Questions / Re: changing Tormek thoughts
Last post by Ken S - October 17, 2024, 10:04:31 AMOne of the benefits of this forum is that there is room for different opinions. I respect the rights of my fellow members whose opinions differ from mine.
Ken
Ken
#83
General Tormek Questions / Re: changing Tormek thoughts
Last post by tgbto - October 17, 2024, 08:22:41 AMThere are still a few who might think the T1 is an expensive honing station, or that it uses quite a bit of real estate in a kitchen.
For those, a fine ceramic rod with an angle guide will go a long way towards keeping T8-garage-sharpened knives in good condition.
For those, a fine ceramic rod with an angle guide will go a long way towards keeping T8-garage-sharpened knives in good condition.
#84
Knife Sharpening / Re: T4 Blackstone
Last post by Ken S - October 17, 2024, 02:32:55 AMI agree with Rick. I neglected to mention one thing about the 3X, The price is around $60 US. I do not claim the 3X wheels are of the same quality, ease of use, and durability as Tormek wheels; however, they are cost effective.
Ken
Ken
#85
General Tormek Questions / changing Tormek thoughts
Last post by Ken S - October 17, 2024, 02:21:25 AMI have changed my thoughts about Tormek since purchasing my first T7 in 2009. I should also say that I believe Tormek has also changed, as have user expectations. Several factors have influenced these changed my thoughts, some directly related to Tormek and some not.
When I started, the US market was essentially only the larger machines, the T7 and older machines. Tormek began this change with the introduction of the T4, a professional quality smaller machine and the first machine to incorporate the higher precision machined cast zinc top now part of the T8. On a personal level, as a senior citizen I appreciate the lighter weight and compact size of the T4. The smaller machines are not for all users; however, I am pleased to see Tormek realizing that their users includes more than professional and heavy needs users.
I started using my Tormek with woodworking tools, the original purpose of Tormek machines. I was fortunate enough to be mentored by Steve Bottorff and Stig Reitan, who introduced me to knife sharpening. While I am still convinced that the high volume professional knife sharpener is best served by the T8 and older full size machines, I am pleased that Tormek has introduced the T2 and T1 specialty machines for lower volume professional and home users, a group which includes me. I do not have the constraint of having to sharpening one hundred knives on a Saturday morning or many neglected or abused knives. I believe there are many Tormek users like me who appreciate having a Tormek to maintain a high degree of sharpness on their family knives. Samuel's answer to my question during the T1 online class resonated with me. His T8 is in his garage and his T1 is in his kitchen. He uses the composite honing wheel on his T1 before every cooking session. His knives are always in optimum condition.
In Ohio where I live, many families have two vehicles. Often, "the second family car" is a truck. While they cross function, a car and a truck each have different areas of better performance. Most kitchens have both conventional and microwave ovens. Most workshops have several related but not identical tools. Why should we expect one Tormek to handle all sharpening situations equally well?
Some users will complain about the cost of purchasing a second Tormek unit. I understand this, although I am somewhat puzzled if the same users do not think twice about the cost of an SJ-250 Japanese grinding wheel.
I believe future Tormek users will continue to be more demanding and innovations will continue to be more specialized. I look forward optimistically.
Ken
When I started, the US market was essentially only the larger machines, the T7 and older machines. Tormek began this change with the introduction of the T4, a professional quality smaller machine and the first machine to incorporate the higher precision machined cast zinc top now part of the T8. On a personal level, as a senior citizen I appreciate the lighter weight and compact size of the T4. The smaller machines are not for all users; however, I am pleased to see Tormek realizing that their users includes more than professional and heavy needs users.
I started using my Tormek with woodworking tools, the original purpose of Tormek machines. I was fortunate enough to be mentored by Steve Bottorff and Stig Reitan, who introduced me to knife sharpening. While I am still convinced that the high volume professional knife sharpener is best served by the T8 and older full size machines, I am pleased that Tormek has introduced the T2 and T1 specialty machines for lower volume professional and home users, a group which includes me. I do not have the constraint of having to sharpening one hundred knives on a Saturday morning or many neglected or abused knives. I believe there are many Tormek users like me who appreciate having a Tormek to maintain a high degree of sharpness on their family knives. Samuel's answer to my question during the T1 online class resonated with me. His T8 is in his garage and his T1 is in his kitchen. He uses the composite honing wheel on his T1 before every cooking session. His knives are always in optimum condition.
In Ohio where I live, many families have two vehicles. Often, "the second family car" is a truck. While they cross function, a car and a truck each have different areas of better performance. Most kitchens have both conventional and microwave ovens. Most workshops have several related but not identical tools. Why should we expect one Tormek to handle all sharpening situations equally well?
Some users will complain about the cost of purchasing a second Tormek unit. I understand this, although I am somewhat puzzled if the same users do not think twice about the cost of an SJ-250 Japanese grinding wheel.
I believe future Tormek users will continue to be more demanding and innovations will continue to be more specialized. I look forward optimistically.
Ken
#86
General Tormek Questions / Re: Looking for Some Advice on...
Last post by tgbto - October 16, 2024, 09:42:45 AMMaybe a different view on just the following topic :
I would concur with @MerryMadMick : I never use the SP-650 for grading, and only from time to time to round out the edges of the wheel. The SE-77 jig with a couple diamond stones is a better investment in my opinion. Plus the OP mentioned sharpening woodworking tools so they will probably have a SE-77 anyway.
And just a word of advice on grading with diamond plates and the SE-77 : while it is definitely more controlled and efficient than grading with the SP-650, and while it is true that it will keep the wheel (much more) parallel to the USB than using the SP-650 freehand, it can (and probably will) make the stone run out of round by accentuating the low spots. The solution to that is to have a MB-102/FVB and rest the diamond plate on the FUSB as well, in order to keep a constant radius.
Quote from: John Hancock Sr on October 15, 2024, 11:44:16 PMIf you buy the SG- which I recommend strongly, this will do almost everything you need, then also get the SP-650 grader to grade between fine and coarse.
I would concur with @MerryMadMick : I never use the SP-650 for grading, and only from time to time to round out the edges of the wheel. The SE-77 jig with a couple diamond stones is a better investment in my opinion. Plus the OP mentioned sharpening woodworking tools so they will probably have a SE-77 anyway.
And just a word of advice on grading with diamond plates and the SE-77 : while it is definitely more controlled and efficient than grading with the SP-650, and while it is true that it will keep the wheel (much more) parallel to the USB than using the SP-650 freehand, it can (and probably will) make the stone run out of round by accentuating the low spots. The solution to that is to have a MB-102/FVB and rest the diamond plate on the FUSB as well, in order to keep a constant radius.
#87
General Tormek Questions / Re: Looking for Some Advice on...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - October 15, 2024, 11:44:16 PMA few more notes.
If you buy the SG- which I recommend strongly, this will do almost everything you need, then also get the SP-650 grader to grade between fine and coarse.
For removing chips I use a belt sander (keep a water container handy for keeping the tool cool) and gently work away at the primary bevel until you have removed the chip.
Make sure you remove the wheel between sessions. It is easy to get the wheel stuck if you leave it on.
Keep the machine lubricated. I use the adage a little often.
Seek out the videos recommended by Ken from the official Tormek channel. Watch those relating to chisels and plane blades first, obviously. They are well worth the time.
Be sure to come back and post any more specific questions here. There are plenty of knowledgeable, experienced and helpful people ready and willing to help.
If you buy the SG- which I recommend strongly, this will do almost everything you need, then also get the SP-650 grader to grade between fine and coarse.
For removing chips I use a belt sander (keep a water container handy for keeping the tool cool) and gently work away at the primary bevel until you have removed the chip.
Make sure you remove the wheel between sessions. It is easy to get the wheel stuck if you leave it on.
Keep the machine lubricated. I use the adage a little often.
Seek out the videos recommended by Ken from the official Tormek channel. Watch those relating to chisels and plane blades first, obviously. They are well worth the time.
Be sure to come back and post any more specific questions here. There are plenty of knowledgeable, experienced and helpful people ready and willing to help.
#88
General Tormek Questions / Re: Looking for Some Advice on...
Last post by MerryMadMick - October 15, 2024, 09:12:11 PMI've had a T-8 for a little over 4 months now, and here is what I've learned:
I run two wheels, the stock SG-250 I keep at 1000ish grit and a SB-250 that I keep at 300ish grit. I tried the Japanese stone, which produced a lovely ultra sharp edge but mine had quality issues and would never run true.
I use a low speed grinder with CBN wheels and a Tormek grinder attachment so I can use the jigs when I reset bevels. Don't try and use your Tormek to reset bevels, you will pull your hair out and question your investment.
The grading stone I find to be a hinderance and I was never happy with it. I use two diamond steel plates (80-grit for 300ish and 400-grit for 1000ist) on a custom jig I made to clean and grade wheels. Since I've stopped using the grading stone and started using the diamond plates and jig I rarely have to use the truing tool.
For the leather wheel, I use the green stropping compound opposed to the diamond paste. Much nicer edge, easier to apply and much cleaner. I almost bought a composite stropping wheel but since I started using the stropping compound, I see no need.
I like the T-8 now and enjoy using it. I almost returned it a few times, but now that I've worked through the frustrations I'm happy with the results.
(edit) I only use the angle setting tool on my plane irons, chisels, ect when I'm resetting the primary bevel on the CBN wheel (set for 8" diameter), otherwise I use the marker method if I'm repairing or resharpening. When you use the square tool jig for your irons and chisels, always have a small square and a small hammer on hand to make sure the steel is perpendicular to the jig. Don't just trust the square-up ridge on the jig.
Hope this helps.
I run two wheels, the stock SG-250 I keep at 1000ish grit and a SB-250 that I keep at 300ish grit. I tried the Japanese stone, which produced a lovely ultra sharp edge but mine had quality issues and would never run true.
I use a low speed grinder with CBN wheels and a Tormek grinder attachment so I can use the jigs when I reset bevels. Don't try and use your Tormek to reset bevels, you will pull your hair out and question your investment.
The grading stone I find to be a hinderance and I was never happy with it. I use two diamond steel plates (80-grit for 300ish and 400-grit for 1000ist) on a custom jig I made to clean and grade wheels. Since I've stopped using the grading stone and started using the diamond plates and jig I rarely have to use the truing tool.
For the leather wheel, I use the green stropping compound opposed to the diamond paste. Much nicer edge, easier to apply and much cleaner. I almost bought a composite stropping wheel but since I started using the stropping compound, I see no need.
I like the T-8 now and enjoy using it. I almost returned it a few times, but now that I've worked through the frustrations I'm happy with the results.
(edit) I only use the angle setting tool on my plane irons, chisels, ect when I'm resetting the primary bevel on the CBN wheel (set for 8" diameter), otherwise I use the marker method if I'm repairing or resharpening. When you use the square tool jig for your irons and chisels, always have a small square and a small hammer on hand to make sure the steel is perpendicular to the jig. Don't just trust the square-up ridge on the jig.
Hope this helps.
#89
Knife Sharpening / Re: T4 Blackstone
Last post by RickKrung - October 15, 2024, 05:02:14 AMQuote from: Ken S on October 14, 2024, 05:58:21 PM...snip...
Although Tormek makes no 200mm SB blackstone, the Norton 3X grinding wheels are easily adaptable; however, they are not quite "plug and play". They are 25mm wide and the bore is 1". Neither of these is a big problem. A few fender washers can fill out the 25mm. Get 12mm inside diameter fender washers. I used a piece of 5/8" outside diameter plastic pipe drilled out from 9/16" to 12mm to fit the bore. Forthose who are not comfortable doing the modification themselves, it is an easy job for a local machinist or 3D printer.
The 3X wheels are available in 46 and 80 grit. You won't need both; the 80 grit wheel is probably the best choice. The largest diameter is 8", ideal for the T4 and usable with a T8. I use them wet.
Ken
I can vouch for the feasibility and utility of mounting traditional grinding wheels on Tormeks. I've posted here many times on this. I machined custom fender washers and bushing to mount 8" dia. Norton 3X wheels and later a 10" dia. no-name wheel, all 1" wide. These wheels are trued just like Tormek wheels using the Truing Tool. They are very effective, especially for anyone who doesn't have the space, resources or interest for other options, such as belt grinders, etc.
Photo below is of a Norton 3X on my T8.
Here is a video showing truing of the 10" wheel.
#90
General Tormek Questions / Re: Looking for Some Advice on...
Last post by John_B - October 14, 2024, 09:16:07 PMAs far as maintenance is concerned I recommend that you true your wheel more often but base it on your usage. Delaying truing is a false economy as you will need to remove a great deal of stone if you go for extended periods without truing. Of course the frequency is directly related to your usage.