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OK , thanks for the reply. Lots of useful info in the links. I am not sure if if is that or not but I think I see what you mean.
In my case, yes, I am measuring the angle with a ruler over the top and bottom of the hollow grind so I suppose the real angle near the tip is less/lower anyway. I was wrongly assuming I should just try to measure  it the same as a flat grind.
Although it is not possible for me to measure the angle just at the cutting edge (apex), it really means that the achieved results with both methods is actually pretty close to the intended 27°   

That is very useful to know. Thanks for your help.

Danny

OK, I thought I should do some tests to see if I can learn something from all your comments.

This is for chisels, not knives. I know this is in the knife sharpening section but it is about angles and it seems to me to apply.

So cbwx34 (if it was you that suggested it, or was it Rich??) I wanted to try the method with the Calcapp to set the angle for chisels.

It took me a bit of time to work it out but it is pretty straightforward to use - the SE-77 section at least. Maybe one day I will try with knives.
I like the idea a lot. I also managed to reduce the wheel diameter setting for the honing wheel to get the same angle for honing and it worked perfectly.

So, I decided I wanted to get a 27° angle so I did two chisels with this method and another chisel with the WM-200 AngleMaster trying to get 27° too.

The results: trying my best to measure the distances carefully with vernier calipers for the calcapp, both chisels ended up at 30°!!....

I am not sure why this happened. Obviously, there is always  possibility of human error involved here but I tried to be careful.

With the third chisel I followed the recommended method for the anglemaster to get 27° and this ended up at 29°!!

I measured the angles with a basic protractor and rulers. I havent got any more sophisticated way but it is fairly easy to see.

Not sure what to make of my results but at least I learned some things!

Danny

For me with my chisels. I don't really measure/check the angle after sharpening.
To be honest, compared to my hand sharpening for eons, the results with the T8 are so good that it doesn't really make a huge difference if it is 25° or 28°.
Anyway, on any hardwood the chisels are already nowhere near so sharp after 5 minutes work so it is really somewhat 'academic'.

I generally only do my own and some friend's knives and I really don't have the inclination (pun intended  ) to get them at a particular degree. I normally follow the existing bevel. I am very happy with the results so for me it is just a bit too much to go into goniometers and the difference between a few degrees and then ideas of Bess scores etc..

Horses for courses 
If there is an easy reliable gauge or jig to set up knife angles better then that is great. To me, the new angle setter does look at first glance somewhat complicated. Maybe it is much more accurate and takes a bit more learning to use it compared to the anglemaster and that may be useful for some people. It also may not be for everyone.

Danny

Thanks for the replies.
I think I get what you mean now 

The main goal of using a calculator, and now your tool, is to overcome the deficiencies of the AngleMaster.  (Which after years of denial, Tormek has apparently now admitted to.)     

Is this really the case? Can you tell us where they have admitted this, please?
I would like to know if I am misusing it or expecting too much from it.
How inaccurate is it, really? and is it more inaccurate for knives or one sided bevels like chisels etc?

I would appreciate any thoughts/info

Danny

Hi Ken,

thanks for the reply.
I was really just trying to suggest what I think may be the problem for Mrjpsmith with the wide plane blade.

As far as my chisel and planes go I basically noticed this issue early on so I just stopped going right to the end to avoid a change of alignment.
Its not really a big deal but it seems a small design flaw which would be easily resolved by a longer insert going inside. This would keep it still aligned on the normal 12mm diameter part of the USB as you get to the stop.
If you just add some washers or add something else outside the jig then the travel is reduced so you can't use all the stone. Not so different to just stopping it with my finger!
Anyway, not a major problem but something Tormek should really address in future with maybe a 15mm long insert instead of the 7.3mm flush one.

I have a lathe and mill so no problem if I want to make a longer insert in delrin. I think it is probably not worth the hassle removing the normal one and I will just make do.

Just something to keep in mind with certain tools.

Bye for now,
Danny
PS The SE-77 has been out for quite some time and I am surprised no one else has noticed or commented about this here (unless I missed it which is very possible..)

Hello all,
Newbie Tormek user here but I have been woodworking, using and sharpening chisels and plane blades for 45 years.
I thought I might just chip in with an observation. I am extremely pleased with my new T8. It has taken a bit of time to get used to using it but generally the results have been superb. I have however noticed one little issue which may be relevant to this problem.

There is a slight design problem with the SE-77 jig which I have not found any comments about on this forum.

On the Universal suppprt there is a slight bevel on the end. See photo, (if it works...


When you slide the SE-77 jig along to the end with the end stop screwed in place, there is a slight play and therefore a dip and the jig moves out of alignment a little. This may be enough to put an unintentional camber on a wide plane blade.

Even though I want to use all of the stone when I am using the jig I have to stop just before getting to the end to avoid this dip in the alignment.

The jig could be improved by having a slightly longer (maybe by just 10mm) 12mm insert which would then keep it still well centered on the bar whilst going all the way to the end stop. Extending in the direction like in this photo (again, if the photo works!)


So, if this is the problem in this case, then avoid going right to the stop end. A better solution would be to make a new slightly longer plastic insert for the jig. I can easily make a new insert and I am tempted to try this out but am not sure how the insert in the jig is fixed in place.

Danny