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Lots of assumptions about the speed of that leather disc wheel have been made here.
The RPM control at the machine seems to be set to a low RPM.
I could not find any information about the actual RPM in that video.
So, I do not know if it runs fast.

Here is the link to the full document.
The conclusion prefers half speed grinders over full speed.

http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Effect_of_felt_and_paper_wheel_on_edge_retention.pdf

I agree. See attachedYou cannot view this attachment.

I use Calcapp and I'm happy with it.

For easy cutting in a kitchen environment, a thin knive is much better than a wider knife. The width above the bevel is the key metric.
Speak to professional chefs or experienced hobby cooks.
They will confirm that the sharpness of the very apex of the edge will allow shaving hair from your arm, but not effortless cutting of raw carrots. It needs a thin geometry and a keen apex to achieve that.

The Tormek is a great tool for sharpening a variety of tools including knives. However, changing a knives geometry towards a thin knife with only 0,2 mm width above the bevel is not the area where a Tormek is best.

Except, notwithstanding the Tormek rating, the machine only draws about 100 watts in operation, so it would be $0.04 per hour.

Correct!
 

You pay money for Energy, measured in kWh. In my area 1 kWh cost approx. 40 cent.
If you run 200W Power for 1 hour,
the spent Energy is 200W x 1 hour = 200 Wh
200Wh equals 0,2 kWh.
The price for 1 hour would be in my case 0,2 kWh x 40 cent/kWh = 8 cent

Ken
Thanks. It would be off topic to go deeper into the technical background.
My comment was related to the presentation only.
If there would be constraints in using a T1 for certain stainless steels, it would be worth opening a separate topic.

I agree that I have interpreted the message rather than staying with the spoken word.
I try to be more careful this time and made a small transcript.

The question:

13:10
It`s strange. When I use the honingwheel on stainless steel kitchen knifes, I seem to blunt the edge, rather than improving it.

The response:

13:27
It can sometimes be, when you have knives with poor steel quality or that is very brittle, if any have quite a small edge, it`s very thin and then it can fall apart and that can happen when you hone it.
So, what I would recommend, to put a bit of a bigger angle, like perhaps 40 deg in total (20 deg per side) to make sure the tip of the bevel really stays together, is a god tip. That might be the case what happens.

My remarks:
The questioner did not confirm that the knifes being sharpened were indeed made of poor steel quality. Knifes rather than only one knife were mentioned. However no more details were communicated.

Sebastien mentioned poor steel quality, followed by describing a small and very thin edge.

My point is, that poor steel quality will not allow making knives with very thin and small bevels. However modern high quality stainless steels allows making such knifes with thin geometry and the majority of todays high end knives with stainless steel is having the described geometry.
Those knives with thin geometry have a very good cutting performance.

Sebastiens conclusion that knives with very thin geometry are made of poor steel quality does seem to be questionable.

His suggestion to sharpen such very thin geometry knives to 40 deg total is questionable as well.

If Sebastien would have asked back with what steel type and knife geometry the questioner had experienced the problem of dulling during honing, we would know more.

I was very disappointed hearing that Wolfgang suggested sharpening highend Kitchenknifes with hard stells to 20 deg dps (40 deg total). He had confirmed that such knifes otherwise would be prone to chipping when sharpened by a T1 at smaller bevel angles.
This sounds like a no-go for users of such knives and I hope this can be clarified.
Can high end Kitchenknifes with very high HRC and thin geometry above the edge be sharpened to the approx. 12 deg dps, where such knifes cut best?

The max. power consumption will be in the area of 200W.
In idle, the power consumption is much lower. Unfortunately, I do not know that value.
The actual power consumption depends on usage. How long is it running idle, how long under full pressure sharpening.
You could ask Tormek customer support for average numbers.

This could help
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,3055.15.html

Perra
I'm using a laser goniometer as well and agree to your assumption.
There is no guarantee to achieve an accuracy better than 1 deg.
It may very well be the case that you could adjust your Jig to 0,5deg. However, I strongly disagree that you could sharpen a knife with your Jig to that accuracy.
The good thing is that is not important.
Your Jig is a great solution for sharpeners who do not want to use the other available solutions. It seems to be simple and straight forward in using it. My only disagreement is the continued misconception regarding the achievable result in bevel angles and the repeatability of that angle on the same knife at another point in time.

If you can demonstrate that, if you had sharpened a knife to a certain angle, used it until dull, and then sharpened it again with your jig.
Marking the bevel with a black marker bevor sharpening would reveal if you could hit that angle exactly.

I would give a big WOUGGHH for that result.

For the time being, I like your work and the person gifted with it can be proud.

Perra

the accuracy meets the requirements we had, within approx. 0.5 degrees.

How did you measure the bevel angle of a knive after sharpening to verify that accuracy?
 

As per the "The Forest Service Ax Manual - one moving part", 17 to 21 dps is suggested for the bevel, wich is 34 to 42 deg inclusive.
However, an microbevel of 25 to 32 dps (50 to 64 inclusive) is recommended in addition. 

However, you are talking about hatchets, not axes. I should read more carefully.

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