Messages

Can you use the flat plate that comes with the scissor jig svx-150 instead of the tool rest svd-110?

They look to be very similar in the way they lock except the slightly larger surface area of the tool rest.

Hi there,

Take my opinion with a bowl of salt as I have only one day using my T-8, but here is a thought I had when using it: as a beginner, I was going very slooooooowly with everything, which meant that the machine was spinning for most of 3 hours I think. There was a fair amount of heat I could feel, and I remember thinking that I was so happy I spent the extra money to get the T-8 (which permits for continuous running) as opposed to the T-4 (which permits only 30 minutes of run-time each hour).

Thanks ken, i was responding to this. I haven't found the time Using it to be limited so its not an issue for me but then im not using it for long periods every day. The t4 certainly meets my needs (and im keeping quiet about it to my neighbours for now!)

Ive just bought a t-4 and am very happy with it. It so depends how much you are going to use it. When mine first arrived i spent a couple of hours sharpening chisels which needed it. I havent found the limited run time to be an issue.

I have a load of other jobs as well as sort out my workshop so havent got round to planes or my better chisels yet.

I plan to get more jigs when my list of garden jobs has come down and i can spend time on my knives.

You quote £ and if you are in the uk, the price you quoted looks high and the difference looks low. Not sure if i can mention suppliers on the forum but look at norfolk saw services (i found them on the tormek site) as they seem the most competitively priced in the uk at the moment.

I did the maths between the two which was quite a big influence, but as others have said the t8 gives you more options including side sharpening on the diamond wheels but if you are into wood turning, i would certainly go for a t8.

The t4 seems quite adequate for chisels and planes (and i have a reasonable number) but it so depends on how much you are going to use it and your tools. Currently im not using my tools enough to warrant frequent resharpening but that may change once ive got the garden carpentry sorted and start using my hand tools much more.

To get rid of surface rust I use Liberon 1 grade wire wool in oil (3in1) and then lightly oil with liberon lubricating wax.
Also oil the shears after use.

The only time ive run into an issue with the lubricating wax is on my leigh d4 where im having to tighten the fingers more than i used to but it seems to keep off the rust.

Have you checked out the on line sharpening recordings?
https://www.tormek.com/uk/en/about-tormek/tormek-live-sharpening-classes/

Yes Ken, its a fascinating series. Ive watched them all several times and keep seeing tips and as i use it, see more things that are relevant and make sense.

But i do like pdfs, i can read at my own time and remember where information is when i need it.

Take care!

Fraser

They also talk about the different wheels in part 3 of the live sharpening series which i found helpful.

This is the one in English but they recorded the series in different languages.

https://youtu.be/wMATay8ITE8

Also - on every chisel and plane blade I am sharpening I check the alignment of the tool to the jig with a small engineers square.
Joe

A couple of questions as usual.
I have noticed a couple of my chisels as not square to the jig when up against the end stop so
Do you square them at the end stop end
Or do you move them to where the centering line is and square them there (as they do in the one hour video  on plane blades when they want to introduce a curve)?

I have tried both and results are better than with the chisel not seated square but with the centering method, the end stop no longer stops the chisel falling of the stone so i have to be mega careful.

Random question, there appear to be two lines proud. One is obviously for centering the plane blade But what is the other one for? Or is it just a casting mark. I cant see any reference to It in the instructions!

Thanks

Thanks for all the replies for all 4 questions, all very useful.

The svs 50 could also be the answer to my marking knife. Thanks

Many thanks.

On the se 77 it mentions protrusion but not a minimum blade length.

I have a set of record plough plane blades which are about 90mm long and have an angle of 35 degrees. Can i use them in the se 77?

There is one curved one with an outside bevel and several with inside bevels which i think are outside the scope of the tormek but would be interested in anyones experience on these.

Many thanks.

While watching some videos, i saw a router being shown but not sure which jig you would use as the bevel is on the inside and the stem seems to block the path to the grinding stone.

Am i correct that these gouges will still need to be sharpened by hand as the bevels are on the inside?

Hi, i have recently retired, moved and got a t4 with se77 and now setting up my workshop and checking my tools and getting back into carpentry and considering which i can sharpen and which jigs i need.

I am a bit unsure of some of the tool names in the manual so decided to use the forum for clarification.

I have decided its easier to ask four separate questions so the answers dont get too complicated.

I have a marking knife which has single bevel but the blade is angled.

Is it possible to sharpen and if so which jig.

Ken, thank you for all your advice and incredible patience!

Your statement 'I don't believe you would go wrong with either model' and a web review Convinced me that the t4 would be the right model For me and it has arrived today. This has all been done on lockdown so online but it certainly looks the business!

I will practice on the george adams chisels i inherited from my father in law which i use for garden carpentry (greenhouse, cold frames, pergolas, gates and trellis) Before i try it out on my woodworking tools including planes and box wood handle marples bevel chisels.

More jigs next month including the truing tool!

Take care!