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Messages - Jeff Farris

#76
Sand just the glue line, not the entire wheel. Doing the whole wheel doesn't focus on the actual problem area.

It's very common to feel and hear the seam, but it shouldn't be disruptive.
#77
General Tormek Questions / Re: T-3 getting loud
September 18, 2013, 01:55:03 AM
Remove the grindstone. The main shaft (what the stone is mounted on) goes through two nylon bearings. When the stone is off, the main shaft, honing wheel and drive wheel slide out easily. Lube the bearings with a waterproof lubricant (teflon or silicone). Before reassembling, turn the motor on and listen for noise. It should be very quiet with no load. When reassembling, lift up on the motor as you slide the shaft in so that the motor shaft is resting on the drive wheel.
#78
Loosen the screws that hold the horizontal support (keep one sort of snug) and adjust as needed. That's usually very carefully done at the factory, but occasionally one isn't quite perfect. There's significant adjustment in the mounting holes.
#79
Wood Turning / Re: Alan Lacer skew
August 27, 2013, 07:09:01 PM
If you're in the USA, check the SharpToolsUSA web site for replacement parts. It is now owned by Advanced Machinery, and I believe they keep all parts in stock.
#80
Wood Turning / Re: Alan Lacer skew
August 27, 2013, 05:12:47 AM
Take the clamping pad off and try again.
#81
This is pretty off subject from the original post, but since it is here, I'll comment about knife shaping...kitchen knife shaping.

What you've posted, Rhino, leads me to believe you're not getting your stone thoroughly cleaned with the stone grader. I would never contemplate putting a chef's knife on a dry grinder, no matter how badly damaged it was. Reshaping, or even re-tipping a blade should be a matter of minutes with a clean, well graded Tormek SG stone. If you can't get a clean cutting surface from the grader, use the truing tool to open the stone up so that you get an idea of where it can be. That fast cutting action you get right after truing should be achievable (or nearly so) by a properly applied coarse grading. You've got to apply pressure, and you have to tip the grader up so that you're using the corner to rip up the surface of the grindstone. Don't baby it and don't stop until you can feel the grit with your fingers.
#82
Quote from: KSMike on August 22, 2013, 04:46:41 PM
I always wondered if that was Deneb's wife. :)

Depends. When he started doing the shows, it was. The last couple years she stayed home with the kids and his sidekick was his sister.
#83
Very nice post, grepper.

One product that I use extensively for scratch and corrosion removal is Klingspor's Sandflex Abraser Blocks. All of the demonstrators at the woodworking shows when they were in their heyday used them to keep their workers looking brand new. I picked up the habit from the folks at Lie-Nielsen. Deneb's wife would pick up every plane after a customer looked at it and give it a once over with the fine Abraser. I keep my Universal Support polished up with one, and it always floats up and down.
#84
Keeping it as short as possible is logical, but I never really pay attention to it. I have enough projection to get my fingers comfortably on the back of the tool. I have no idea what my "average protrusion" might be on a chisel or plane iron.
#85
Since it is used, I wonder if it might not have the older SVH-60 jig with it, instead of the newer SE-76.

Here's a PDF download for some instructions I wrote several years ago to help people get better results with the SVH-60.

http://www.sharptoolsusa.com/squareedgeweb.pdf
#86
Grepper,

You need to work on getting a feel for where to cut and where to relax. It sounds like you're trying to keep your pressure even and consistent. That doesn't always work. Like Kenny Rogers sings, you have to know when to hold them and know when to ease off --- or something like that.

#87
Well that tool hawker would have been me. Don't know how you got the wrong support, but I have a couple floating around my shop, of the correct vintage and the correct length. Send your address to jeff at sharptoolsusa dot com and I'll send you one.
#88
I see what you're describing now in your photograph.

Did you by chance purchase your machine second-hand and/or as a demonstrator from a shop?

The reason I ask is that the Universal Support for the smaller machine (1600 or T-3) is shorter. I think you have the wrong Universal Support, which could have happened if someone ordered the wrong replacement or if a shop keeper got them mixed up on the demo machines. It's possible, but highly unlikely that it was factory packaged that way.
#89
No, it wasn't and isn't flawed. If the tool is indexed to the correct side of the jig and used in the vertical mount, you will be off the stone before the jig leaves the Universal Support. The horizontal base has to be offset or the posts of the Universal Support would hit the vertical mounts. A longer bar on the Universal Support starts to introduce a tipping problem. Believe it or not, more than a couple of vitally interested parties have looked at this issue for decades.
#90
Neither the SVH-60 (original straight edge jig) nor the newer SE-76 were designed to work in the horizontal position. It is not very effective on straight edges.