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"Free Grindstones for Life" was my idea. I pitched it to Tormek for the very reason that people worry about how long the stone will last, when the reality is few will go through a stone in their lifetime. I don't remember how many countries ran it, but I know that very few stones have been sent out as replacements. Heavy users got a great deal, average users got a big chunk of peace of mind.

Maybe we could get Jeff to chime in on this.   Hey Jeff...  I'm curious... Does this seem normal?

Mark

It seems really high to me, unless it is going 8 hours a day, 5 or 6 days a week....which it could if being used professionally. I had a commercial account (Goodyear) who used it on a daily basis and at least two shifts a day, and they bought a stone about every 9 months. Amazing that in the modern manufacture of tank treads, there's still work done with hand knives (trimming mold seams).

Grind a big flat on the round section, parallel with the top of the flute. If you've done that, and it is still slipping, your flat isn't big enough, or it is angled toward the cutting edge. It needs to be relatively flat and at least a quarter inch wide. As much as I love the Tormek, it isn't the right tool for doing the job of cutting the flat. Use a belt sander, belt grinder, high speed grinder or (best choice) a milling machine. I have to do this on my detail gouge (RSorby 1/2 inch spindle gouge) relatively early in it's life because of a long projection.

Your stone is exactly the same as the current SG-250. It should handle your HSS bits with no problem at all. I have sharpened many TiN coated tools on the Tormek. I think the reason it works is that the underlying material is just like any other HSS and the coating is extremely thin.

If he did, you witnessed someone ruining his stone. Antifreeze contains anti-friction compounds that are designed to infiltrate very tiny crevices. Not something you want in a grindstone.

Do not true your grader. Particularly on the smooth side, it is much more effective once the arc of the stone is cut into it.

I truly doubt you'll use up the stone in two years, even in professional use. I've experienced much the same as you have time and time again. The first 6mm or so seems to wear away very quickly, but then you get every tool you own dialed in, your technique improves and I think there's something physically different about the rim of the stone.

At this point, I wouldn't worry about using any oil. Just use the honing compound. Looks like it has already been well oiled.

Your honing wheel is just fine. The lighting makes it look more dramatic than it really is. Just apply some compound and go to work.  You do need to true your grindstone, though.

Don't try to turn the nut. Turn the wheel. Hold the honing wheel and push the grindstone opposite the normal direction of rotation. The nut will pop right loose.

Depending on the shape of the tool and the composition of the steel, it may be necessary to grade the grindstone every few minutes. Flat bevels and hard metals (think plane irons, skew chisels and planer blades) smooth the stone quickly. Use the grader frequently to keep the stone cutting. This is much less of an issue on shaped tools, like gouges.

It is completely unnecessary, no matter how hard your water is.

[Most]

So, I've been doing the impossible for 20 years? 

Most serrated blades are hollow ground on one side and beveled on the other. The hollow ground sound appears flat, but rarely is. Even in those cases where the flat side is truly flat, the hollow from the Tormek wheel will not alter the knife's performance.

Grade the stone fine, being careful to get a completely smooth surface. Freehand grind the hollow grind, keeping it as flat on the wheel as possible. Then use the corner of the leather honing wheel to work in and out of each tooth on the beveled side. Don't worry about what the angle is, just follow what's already there. Hone the hollow ground side as well.

Now, the caveat is, this only works on knives that are dull, not on ones that are nicked or damaged. But to whitewash the issue with the statement than you can't possibly sharpen a serrated knife of any kind or condition is misleading.

Some ridges from the truing tool are unavoidable. They'll disappear soon after you start using the grindstone. They actually improve the cutting action...if you want it to cut fast. On the other hand, if you want a finer cutting surface, the stone grader will smooth the ridges quickly.

Hey Greg,

I am curious about the question Herman asked... Does it  keep running in whichever direction you push start it?  Sort of sounds like it from your boat motor comment, and you said "It runs in either direction".

Anyway, if it does keep running in whatever direction you push start it, I'd like to get a failing capacitor for mine too!  That actually could be handy.  Grind with or into the wheel just by stopping/restarting. 

Except, it has zero torque when it is turning the wrong way. The motor doesn't pull into the drive wheel when pressure is applied.