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The Japanese tools you mentioned are among the many that have convex bevels. My point is, there are a lot more pairs of $20 - $100 hardline bevel beautician's shears out there than $250 - $1000 convex bevel shears.

Herman,

Just want to clear up one thing you wrote.

The Tormek will sharpen most beautician's shears perfectly. The only ones where it struggles are those with a convex bevel, and even there, a trained hand can do the job admirably, as long as the shears are not nicked or extremely worn.

The scissor jig is one (of many) that I would be very hesitant to use with a dry grinder. Scissors need a fine grind, very carefully controlled. I am afraid you'll be disappointed with the results. If you don't want to buy a Tormek, maybe find a neighbor who has one and buy the scissors jig for him or her.

That's a problem with the starting capacitor of your motor.

The bottom of the flute is exactly what I'm talking about.

Are you sure your tip is gone? The tip is made of bronze and wears away to expose more of the diamond chips. It has diamond material in it all the way to the holder. About the only time I've seen a tip gone, it was cut off by a customer trying to take too deep a cut.

To answer the question directly, yes, the TT-50 works with the SB stone.

You're fine, no damage done. Just use a bit of mineral oil to condition the leather now. Then just apply one thin stripe of compound every 3 or 4 tools. Use a little frequently rather than a lot occasionally.

Item "I" is the stop mechanism for the old style truing tool (ADV-50D).  The cutter is missing or you didn't photograph it. 

Item "K" is the original design SVM-45 knife jig. The stop (what you called a "handle") does adjust, it's just stiff.

Item "J" is an SVS-40, predecessor to the SVS-32 and a fine tool that you should treasure. It does a couple things the SVS-32 won't, but the newer design handles short tools better. The SVS-40 is a fantastic jig for carving tools in that is does not have the travel limits that the SVS-32 does.

You've got a knob missing from your scissors jig, but you can share the one from your Torlock Tool Rest (SVD-110 with the box).

"L" looks like a part from an Incra Jig. Don't think it has anything to do with a Tormek.

I'm clueless on E, F, G, H, M, and N

This is an application that most of us have never considered, but it's great to read such positive results.

Malcom,

Your catches with the skew usually come from one of two situations. Either you have the edge in contact with the wood without the bevel rubbing or you have the point of the skew involved in the cut. Concentrate on using only the lower 2/3 of the skew, keeping the tip well away from the stock and be sure you're riding the bevel.

It won't. Keep your stone clean. That's the disconnect.

That's not too brutal. I would take an equal (or thereabouts) amount off both sides, keeping the bevel size close to original.

Typically on double bevel knives, you would take approximately equal amounts off both sides. How deep is the nick in the worst blade?

On different subject, I wonder what software Jeff used to make the videos. They are excellent from a software point of view.

If I were vain, I would point out that it's the golfer, not the club that makes the shot. But, I'm not, so I won't. 

Those were shot with a Sony PDX-10 and cut with an iMac using Final Cut Express and compressed with QuickTime (and a lot of experimentation). Amazing how well they have held up in relevance over more than 10 years. When I did them, I had to compress them very carefully so they could be viewed by normal connections...normal then being reallly slow by today's standards. When I did the turning video, I upgraded to Final Cut Pro and a MacBook Pro. I'm proud of the production quality on that DVD, too.

Sharpen the Roughing Gouge to the angle you want, then make a block that just fits between the Universal Support and the grindstone. If you use the same protrusion from the jig each time, then adjust the Universal Support to the gauge block, you'll get the same angle each time.

Alternatively, set the Universal Support using the TTS-100 (either setting) and adjust the position of the jig on the tool until the correct bevel angle is achieved. Measure and record the protrusion and use it every time you sharpen. The advantage to this approach is that it won't change over time, and you Universal Support will often be in the right position, given the setting you use most of the time.