Messages

Pig sticker's, ok.  I don't remember reading that part in his post.  (although I thought they were Ray Isles)
My only mortising chisels are Narex, and I still have access to the old SE-60 if that would have been an issue.  Just saw the other jig on a for sale board, and thought I better ask, while I knew where I could get one.
Thank you Ken.

The width thing, never crossed my mind.  I've seen a T-3 off and on, via local CL.  Not many other Tormeks have popped up (one old square frame 2000 model, that was listed for $600 firm and recently dropped to $500, yeah, good luck with that).
My brain was looking for an excuse, to try the smaller machine, in somewhat of a comparison (and leave it in a friends restaurant, so I don't become the go to guy, again).

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1314.0

First and last name not capitalized, someone is slipping.  Older posted deleted, but spammer not banned?

I have been going through the forum and found the old flat blade jig, being listed as better for mortising chisels (by Ionut from memory).  I know there was a SVS-40 jig, that was the predecessor to the 32.  I think Jeff just sold some old stock in January, of it, via Ebay.  I am wondering if this jig has any benefits over the new on any tool?  (found one via CL, wondering if I should add it, if price is right)

Are the arbor sizes the same between the machines and what is the minimum stone size for the T-3?

Just thinking out loud here, wondering when the stone on the T-7/2000 (later in my case) gets to the 7" mark, could it be used on the smaller machine?  Thanks

I wouldn't bother looking for the serial number, your not going to find it:

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=585.0
I'd like to know if the serial numbers can give one a born on date (figure out when my 2000 was made).

I think what they are referring to (been manually reading 70+ pages here), is their may be some old stock, XB's that have one knob (if someone has old stock lying around).  The BGM came out after the change (so no chance to get the less liked older style).  However the BGM doesn't have the XB install manual I linked to.

If your going to swap out the bushings, I would consider swapping out the shaft for the newer stainless steel with the thumbwheel. (I did it on my 2000, all came together)  Mine the prior/late owner ended up chipping his stone, getting it off a rusted shaft (there is a thread here by Herm, I think with his issue getting a stone off a rusted shaft).  My old stone and shaft was given to my father, who was originally going to use a sewing machine stand for a treadle sharpener, which ended up on a leather sewing machine.  So he was pricing building his own motor and ended up  buying the Grizzly clone, strictly due to cost (mom would kill him for cost of Tormek, especially for amount of use) and putting the Tormek stone on it, truing it (past the chip) and buying the Tormek jigs.  He is trying to find a bargain like I did; my wait was 6 years from the time I first saw Jeff in 2004 to when I found one in my budget and had the cash at the same time. I've found after the initial use, amount of use depends on work schedule and I haven't had any shop time in the last couple years. 

I don't know when they changed, (yours is an old square housing design by what I have seen/read), but the early 2000 models were also square.  From a post here:
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=937.0
The bar size of yours needs to be checked (it may be a smaller bar).  If that is the case, you will also need those sleeves/bushings.
Personally I think the BGM would be the better value (cheaper then separate).  You could also use it to line up the holes for the sleeves (mark the spacings). But they won't have the install instructions.
Went looking for the instructions (my links sometimes have extra garbage on the end):
http://tormek.com/media/104077/mounting_xb100_en.pdf
http://tormek.com/media/234044/instruction_bgm-100_en.pdf
and Welcome to the forum.

I caught that trick pretty quick. (it STUCK out at me)  I have a horrible quality, cheap cheap, college student type of chef's knife, that I want to sacrifice in practicing the bad, then the good method of keeping with the blade.  If I hadn't caught it in Jeff's video, I would have been guilty and kept it with the back.  (so I want to prove to myself the results)

I thought one day that knife would make a scraper.  I think I have a better use.

While there are two jigs (longer one for flexible knives), there was something that stuck with me, in both Jeff's video and a hand sharpening of Japanese knives, video I have seen. 
Jeff's video:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYURcwkKGPs
hand video:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIw5ChGOADE

On the second video around 4:58 he starts to talk about their device (in a little more explanation then Jeff gives).  I expect this might be an issue, something to look at.
Keep the jig front and the blade edge, parallel.

By bushing, I am meaning the sleeve the USB goes into.  (figure if loose at all, it could add more play to any bar issue)
I think if the ones on motor had play, you could see that in the stone when running.

Besides the bend possibility, I would check for both bushings to be loose (see the tool diagrams on the Sharptools site), look at the welds of the bar (make sure you see no cracks), and am wondering about the hardening/annealing (not sure proper term) of the bar?

From time to time I watch Jeff's videos.  This morning I happened to watch his chisel sharpening video linked here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMCwG8xehGE

I think it makes sense to make sure we can get a basic very sharp edge.  Once we can consistently create a very sharp edge, then we can be concerned with the degree of squareness.   I do believe this is a two part process.  First the sharpness and then the finesse. I believe we are focusing on the finesse before we have solidly established the sharpness.  I believe we can benefit from watching (rewatching) Jeff, an accomplished Tormek expert, go through the process.

Ken

I certainly don't see it that way.  I don't find it difficult to get things sharp on the Tormek, and coming from other systems, such as he did, I expect sharp isn't the problem.
It does sound like a bad jig to me. (that happens in any manufacturing process)

Kenny's scenario is an example of situation where a Tormek owner really needs to spend some time with someone in "tech support".

While I don't dismiss the idea out of hand, I think it much more likely that you would find this training available from the dealers rather than Tormek itself.  For example Woodcraft carries the Tormek line in their stores along with grindstones and probably some other supplies and jigs.  They conduct workshops in various wood crafting skills as a promotion.  They may be able to carry out these workshops on site with some support from Tormek.  It's a good idea worth pursuing.

Craftsmen need to keep their tools sharp!

Then you will end up with the woodcraft two step.
I went to a sharpening class, after I bought my Tormek, but was going to by the jigs I was missing from them.  It SPECIFICALLY mentioned being taught on a Tormek, and they never even came close to that (was more of a things need to be sharp and here are our bench stones lecture).
I didn't buy anything from them and ended up getting it from Jeff.

In the old days, (DeWalt radial arm saw comes to mind) companies used to teach things.  Now, they are worried about liability if they teach a bad habit, etc.

Mine is the old style.  Makes me wonder about an old sewing machine pedal, or making my own switched outlet (larger switch).

Bravo, Rob!  BBC meets Spaghetti Western! The first fish and chips western.

I think you will find fish finger and custard, and Doctor Who beat you to it.