Messages

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1435.msg4564#msg4564

In the last post Jeff, says the motors do run hot.   Mine ran for about an hour today and the housing did feel warm to me.

On the old style jig, it was easy to see how to stop the handle from spinning. (the little knob)  I used the long knife jig for the first time today (cheap flexible knife a friend asked me to try) and it felt a couple times, like the handle was trying to spin, when going back and forth.  I tried moving my hand out of the way to observe, and there may have been very SLIGHT, movement (felt it more then observed).  Has that happened to anyone else, and is there any tricks to lock the handle more securely?

Thanks

In this case, I don't think it is so much a case about worried about the warranty, but the price someone is asking, used, without, so close to new price, with warranty.  It is about Value. (from receiving the posts from that forum)

I was on with our Mod this morning and sent him that and asked him if they visit Yahoo forums.  I think the answer needs to go to both forums.

Tormek makes three stones, the leather wheel and a couple different contoured wheels for turning tools. Norton, makes none that I am aware of.  There are at least a couple of stones made by other people for the Tormek (King stones comes to mind), but you see less of them, since Tormek came out with their other stones.  There is also a CBN type of stone that fits a Tormek.
That is all that I am aware of.

How is the wheel held to the shaft? Does it just slide straight through and held by pressure between the two large washers and nut?

I got the nut off with an impact wrench which stripped the nut but that's ok since I am replacing the shaft. I but WD 40 between shaft and stone and hit with hammer. No budge. I left sitting with WD-40 overnite and will now go see if I can tap it out. I'll go with the gentle idea until I get really frustrated, as I'd like to save the wheel.

That is how it is held.  The late, prior owner of mine, chipped his wheel, fighting to get it off the shaft. (when I got it, it had a brand new wheel and the chipped one)  Herm has fought his, but you have probably read his posts.  My only other thought, since your replacing the shaft, is drill a hole in something flat, for the stone to sit on and the shaft to go through, then bolt some kind of weight to the other side, to pull with gravity, while sitting with WD40, or some kind of penetrate on the stone end.

Ken, your replying to a spammer.

Rhino, do you keep the magnet in the tray?
The prior owner of my 2000, glued two magnets to the outside of the tray.  Another option, if one can find a small ziplock bag (typically comes with screws for something), I put magnets in them, and remove the magnet with tweezers over a trash can, so the filings fall down into it.

I would try the knives off of the regular stone first.  I do think the SJ might have some practical use if one were a professional chef (I know two, one retired) and did their knives more often then most people.  Other then usefulness, it seems it would be more about bragging rights (and then maybe one would look at other more expensive systems, just because).
The general consensus I read, says the SG and maybe the SB stones, are pretty much the useful ones.

What type of clippers are you talking about?  (might get a better response)

Most of those 1/4 or 1/2 sheet baking pans are aluminum.  The Tormek would be fine on a folding table, but not something as light as a tv tray/table.  I normally just use the dining table.

I tend to fill the tray from a Folgers coffee container.  I had a friend save me several (the restaurant) and use several of them for soaking small items in evaporust/vinegar etc.  I had a spare so it became my water mover.
I do agree with the honing compound being messy, especially when doing serrated knives. (edge of the wheel)  I think the water spilling over, is a lot less with the larger water tray, and if one uses a lazy susan (or Tormeks branded one) .  I will say getting used to how much water, and pouring too fast, caused most of my messes.
When done, I dump the water tray back into the coffee container, dry out the tray, dump the water outside and wipe out the coffee container.

Quite honestly, I replaced mine when I upgraded the shaft, and I didn't really see a difference.  Because of that, I kept the old as a just in case type of thing.

First, welcome to the board.

Second, do you have any that weren't passed down?  The reason I say that, is the Tormek as well as any sharpening system, seems to be a lot about practice, practice, practice.  (and I like to be good before working on something I might consider a family heirloom)
When I joined the board, I read every post trying to learn from others.  Two that I remember that might help, with Jeff Farris (a forum Moderator), telling how he does it in the first one, and the second post, with a procedure I would like to try (only have the one straight razor though):
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=255.msg744#msg744
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=263.msg778#msg778

I think both of these posts were before Tormek had their branded Japanese stone.  So take that into account (haven't seen any real discussion of the King or other brand waterstones that have been sold for Tormek prior to that).  Also the discussions I know we have had on the SJ stone, revolve around how it is less of a grinding type of stone then a polishing stone (more to rehone/polish then to regrind an edge).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35wVwIOwgdw

The style pizza cutter I have used, looks more like a machete (friends restaurant), so I don't have a round one to try.  That said the SVD-185 has a jig with it for smaller turning cutters and I am wondering if that could be used with larger wheels like the pizza wheel? (certainly not as large/awkward or dangerous as the slicer blade from another thread)
If not, while spacing would have to be figured out (is the bar long enough to get back far enough) you could use a dowel with a screw in the end, to hold the blade.