Messages

HELLOOOOO........

Anyone out there?  Not sure why the whole conversation was deleted and yet the thread was left???

Seems like a reasonable conversation (or what I initially saw this morning), with a close to end of life wheel, to LEARN, what and why.  Instead of deleting and leaving the blank thread, I would have expected more post links or quotes from other posts:

It would be completely ineffective. The stone is designed to be fully saturated and have its surface washed. If it isn't, it will glaze quickly.

But, I have to ask, why would you want to use it dry?

from http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1503.msg5091#msg5091
Other threads; the first one makes me think of a Tormek video (define short grinding)
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1525.msg5296#msg5296
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZ07gPtB6pg (marker method is dry grinding)

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1030.msg2540#msg2540

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1525.msg5296#msg5296

Anyone have a prediction what the Tormek will look like in 50 years?

Well, look at the stone wheels that were used for a LONG time.  I doubt that will change, but what might is as computers and tech become smaller and AI starts, we could have some kind of automation eventually happening in the Tormek (with human oversite for testing).  Think of it as touch the screen for the item sharpening, and put the jig on whatever is operating it.

Who knows though.  I remember the old tv special Connections, with James Burke, and how advances are normally from something else entirely, interacting.   Between that, and how we thought about robots, verses how we are using them now (production, floor vacuums, lawn mowers), idea's change.

One other thread to read and it shows that upgrading may cost you more then new, if the tools aren't what your looking for:
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2534.0

2000 and T7 accessories are the same for the most part.  The exception that I am aware of, is the early 2000 models had a square frame and the sticker from the later models that shows the wheel size, won't work.  The honing wheels should be the same size. (why would you want to replace it?)
Does $450 sound reasonable, is a whole other matter that the answer is, it depends.
You realize it has no warranty on the older one? (there is even some debate between me and the moderator over if a warranty is transferable on a newer one)
You don't list the jigs it has.  First, are they ones you would use?
Can you see this one in person (verses buying off of Ebay)?
Can you easily remove the stone off the shaft?   Has the shaft been upgraded to the stainless shaft (first thing I did on my used one, that I purchased with all the turning jigs for $188)? No weird noises to the unit?
What are the upgrades going to cost you that you would want, plus  the purchase, verses a new model?
Are you sure this is for you, or is this because you think it will be instantly easy to sharpen? (this is where I would like to see more stores demo it, rather then just have a box sitting there)  Realize there is a learning curve.

That is around the price I saw three that were listed locally for more, go for on Ebay. (including a square frame model)
For that price, I would want to make sure it had some options that came out during the 2000 run, like the threaded shaft (verses the solid one, mine had both), the stainless shaft for the wheels, and jigs I would use (I don't currently turn, but it is something I am going to learn). I would also want to see it in person as I did mine.

Some days I come here, and see these posts, and I think I am in a classroom, being served a test (solve for *)

Not the first time.

I frequently see listings on Ebay for retail or above.  Often, they are from companies since Ebay's push to get away from individual sellers a few years ago.

Last year, or earlier this year, several that were local to me, were listed there, after getting no response to their near retail, used Tormeks.  One of which was an old square model, with the original sales sheet from Jeff Farris, showing the price (which was within a couple of dollars of what it was posted for, long out of warranty).

I can see them referencing the edge of the wheels, because if it would have been the shaft, the lines should have gone further back, to the bump out on the guards in the picture.
But I am wondering why one side is further out then the other?

Ken, I can see the reason for both sides.  One side for shaping new tools and the other for grinding just a new profile (courser wheel on the new tool side, the other side just courser then the Tormek wheel).  Also Tormek has some kind of a Wolverine jig adapter, so maybe the difference in length, goes with that jig and longer tools?

I think they were trying with the advanced search functions (typically starts through the regular search box).  Pretty sure the database was borked at some point in time, probably long before where it is now (no easy way to rebuild it).  Thought the forum was started by Jeff Farris, and maybe on his old site and computers (please correct me if I am wrong), before Tormek proper took over it.  That leaves a cold repair trail, that even if one could go back on, you tend to lose more in the process going forward (loss of posts).

Viewing all posts by clicking the member name is still working, but it isn't the same functionality.
I know one can site search via Google and various search engines, but don't know how to insert all the variables (particularly the posters name).

You may not have a choice, if you provided inaccurate information on the warranty.  The only reason I could think that they wouldn't want THIS PARTICULAR (not repair in general) posts, is to show that people have confusion, and to clarify it.  If they choose the clarification method, then I would think the first post will be modified, and maybe locked.

Ken you need to modify this post!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I think this was discussed in a post with Stig before and the warranty is NON transferable.  This means only the original registered (although the registration is for the extended warranty according to their site), owner.

That said, NOT ALL MALFUNCTIONING questions, are warranty related.  (used or older Tormeks)  We've has some good rebuild discussions as well.
Something to consider.

Wootz, you say "Notice the chipped edge".
Does that mean the DMT caused it, or you were using it to work it out, or it is the reference point for your wheel?

These links don't work on a computer, but do on a mobile phone I am guessing.  (the m. part of the link)
I had to modify them to get them to work for a computer.

Randal, thanks for the heads up. You are correct, most of my posting is done from a Kindle Fire. Is the "m."  all that needs to be removed to make them work? If so, I can easily modify them.

I've seen the m before on cell phones, and it doesn't seem to be universal, so knowing the device may make a difference (screen size?).
Your first link, I clicked on to open and it takes you just to the Youtube front page.  Removing the middle section so it appeared like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrhZULmd18g
took me to the video.

I'd like you to update this at a later date.  I am wondering if you will find you can't get it back to course as easily, or you find out you use/wear more of the stone, due to the hardness of the diamonds.
Thanks

I have been doing this for years now.  in fact I find I get a much better cutting surface with the 120 mesh, 120 micron - extra extra course grade.

it clearly removes more material off the grinding wheel than the OEM grader stone.

for me, I see the grinding wheel as a consumable and it does not bother me to burn that grinding wheel down a bit faster.  it cleans the wheel off and you get a nice fresh surface for cutting.

That provides a bit more information.  I understand the grinding wheel is a consumable and do consider it as such, however the amount of wear is something that without data, I couldn't get an informed decision on.
For example, if one were to use the TT50 and take off more then they needed, because it was unscrewed and gouged deeper, rather then in its proper spot. (why waste wheel? being the whole point)

I'd like you to update this at a later date.  I am wondering if you will find you can't get it back to course as easily, or you find out you use/wear more of the stone, due to the hardness of the diamonds.
Thanks

I think I remember a post by the old forum moderator, Jeff Farris, about the wheel becoming out of round by sitting in water on a regular basis. (water evaporating at the top of the wheel, but  not the bottom)
I also seem to remember a post where someone had their shaft become rusty, and I seem to remember something about just a tiny bit bent (where the wheel would exaggerate that).
The first is an easy fix (remove the water tray for full/even drying), the second is easily checked.  (remove the shaft and roll on the table.)