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On the one that had it's apex damaged from cutting hard crusted bread i used my Tormek T7 to grind the old edge flat and put on a new initial edge.
The polishing was then done on Paper Wheels with diamond compounds.

These Kohetsu Santoku's in HAP40 steel @ 65HRC also came from Chefknivestogo US, as they weren't available in my country.
Very nice knives i might add, and the steel takes & holds an excellent edge.

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/kohetsu-hap40-santoku.1509214/

Technically you should be fine, because the aluminium oxide in the regular Tormek stone is harder than both the steel matrix (duh) as well as it's content (carbide type & volume)
The hardest carbide type in AEB-L is chromium carbide @ 1735 Knoop
The hardest carbide type in Aeogami Super is tungsten carbide @ 1880 Knoop
Aluminium oxide measures 2100 Knoop and will easily abrade steel + carbides.

Personally i always use an abrasive that is harder than both the steel matrix as well as it's contents for the best possible edges that also last the longest.
This is of less importance with edges of a coarser type, but gets increasingly more important with edges of a more polished type.

However, due to the design & shape of the blades the round Tormek stone might or might not be the best choice for sharpening.
In other words: the Tormek stone can do great on secondary bevels if your knives have these, but is totally unsuitable for sharpening those wide single bevel knives.
For those you will need completely flat stones.

From what types of steel are your knives made ?

One thing i forgot is that i do most bolster grinding and old apex removal lengthwise.
With my left hand i hold the pommel of the knife, and with my right hand i pinch grip the back of the blade.
Then i let the protruding bolster touch the side of the stone, like putting the needle on a record if that means anything.
Doing it this way allows me much more control over the process, and thus a much better end result.

Try using the side of your Tormek stone for getting the bolster back in line with the cutting edge.
That's how i do it anyway.
Use a light touch and check often using good lighting.
I also have a piece of cutting board which i hold up to the edge during the process to check if any light peeps through underneath.
With the last couple of passes i also take off the entire old apex, and only then create a new one.
This removes the old and possibly damaged metal (mostly from steeling way too hard) and makes sure that the new apex is made up entirely from fresh & undamaged steel.
If you do this you will most likely notice an improved edge holding of your knives.

A few years ago i did a review on various other forums of a Forever white ceramic knife, complete with resharpening/polishing.
If you Google on Forever SC-16WB ceramic knife you will probably find it.
Quality ceramic knives can get really sharp btw, as i show on the tomato in the two YouTube clips.

Just a brainfart: could a pipecutter work to make very shallow cuts around the steel shaft, just deep enough to mark it ?

Interesting reading material Vadim, thank you.
Have you thought about incorporating silicon carbide in the test as well ?

Thx to a great tip from member CWBX34 the pics of the first PM2 in S110V are now visible again, and i've learned something new, 

The pictures of the Spyderco PM2 in S110V steel in my earlier post seem to have vanished, and i can't replace them as i don't have them on my computer anymore.
However i do have pics from a second PM2 in the same steel, only without the USB shots.

BTW: these edges are done freehand on Paper Wheels with diamond compounds exclusively, so no Tormek involved.
The chest hair was made into a fuzzstick by holding it on the root end only.
You can click 2 x on each pic for a bit more detail.

My working prototype with the triangular mod done.
The piece of aluminium connecting the Torlock piece with the underside of the platform practically eliminates the little bit of flex there was at the very end of it.

The first mod i have in mind is to connect the underside of the knife rest to the underside of the Torlock part with a piece of aluminium, with the aim to stiffen up the whole construction by making something of a triangular shape.
Currently there is a little bit of flex at the hollowed end, which can make the aluminium touch the stone sometimes when in use.

If Tormek were ever to make such a knife rest i would like to see a stiff one-piece extruded (maybe 7075) aluminium construction with a triangular shape & an integral Torlock, so the end product would have as little flex as possible.

The second mod is currently still in the brainfart stadium due to this question that keeps nagging me:
What would the cross section of a freshly sharpened knife bevel look like if the knife rest didn't have a flat surface like it has now, but instead would be ever so slightly triangular like a very shallow roof on a house ?
In theory i think i know the answer, but i'm not yet convinced about the feasibility of such a mod.

This is my own current working prototype of Herman's knife rest with a piece of Torlock attached to it.
It already works quite well, but i still have 2 possible modifications i want to try out.

Try one layer of thin plastic packing tape on the knife rest.
So far it works well for me, and it's also easily exchangeable once it wears and/or fouls.