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Specifically for scandi grinds on Mora's etc i designed and had this made a while back.
I call it a "limiter block", as it limits your range of movements while sharpening guided on the Tormek to only back & forth and up & down (for the point area)
The block can slide along the steel guide rod, and with the screws i can finetune the clamping force.

The knife is my Mora 2000 which i bought in Sweden in 2006, and which was used as a testbed for various edges, once even with a few serrations just in front of the handle.
I reground it several years ago using the limiter block, then removed the slight burr on the Tormek leather wheel for a slightly convex microbevel.
It has been living in my daypack ever since, and the apex has already been refreshed several times on a Spyderco white ceramic stick (when on holiday)

One would need an ovalized stone to do convex edges on a Tormek.
The mock-up in the pics shows how this would work.





(Pics stolen from forum member Jan)

After reprofiling & sharpening on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, then deburring and polishing it a bit with a second Paper Wheel coated with 1.0 micron diamond compound.
The new edge is a bit convex, and measures ~30 degrees inclusive on the straight part of the edge, changing into ~35 degrees inclusive from belly to point.
This to avoid widening the bevels there too much, as this blade is relatively thick behind the edge in that area.
The last picture shows a small facet at the heel which has an entirely different angle, so i could not remove it without making things worse.
Visually it's not perfect yet treetopping sharp, and the owner was happy.

We're all in the same boat, learning new things everyday, 
Here's an example of how i use daylight coming from the right hand side to compare old and new scratch patterns in edge bevels.

The first owner of this small Sebenza apparently thought it a good idea to use the knife for sharpening practice in his new Wicked Edge.
The outcome made him sell the knife for a measly 150 Euro's to owner number two, who sent it to me with the request to tidy things up a bit and give it a bit of a shiny edge.

Below is what the knife looked like when i received it, still with it's very rough and partly unapexed "edge", and with an edge angle of ~40 degrees inclusive at the straight part of the edge, changing into ~45 degrees inclusive from belly to point.

I'm not quite sure what that area in my own picture number 2 shows, it's either a trick of the light or i didn't polish the entire bevel there.
Whatever it is, that part of the image isn't representative for the bevels & apex which were sharpened on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, then refined through 6, 3, and 1 micron diamond compound on other Paper Wheels.
No Tormek stone that i know of comes close to that level of refinement, but of course it isn't often required or necessary.
Using lighting to catch different scratch patterns in pictures is something i do as well, but from your posts it wasn't clear to me that you were doing the same.

I know what a mirror edge is supposed to look like, it's just that so far i haven't seen one in this thread.

This is a mirror edge on a user Spyderco PM 2 in CPM-M4 steel i did on my Paper Wheels some time ago.
(you can enlarge each picture 2 x for more detail):

Why do you call them mirror edges ?

1.0 micron diamond paste on the leather wheel here, and quite a lot of it.
Works like a charm.

0.6 mm isn't exactly thin behind the edge, and this might even be part of the problem.
If you're not overly attached to your knives current appearance you might consider a slightly convex regrind (this can also be done by hand using wet & dry SiC paper on glass), and then use a microbevel for the actual edge at ~30 inclusive/ 15 degrees per side, for instance on Spyderco medium or fine sticks.
Not only will the difference in cutting performance be dramatic, touch-ups will also be very fast & easy.

Most of my kitchen knives & peelers in softer steel are done this way, and the ones who still have a standard edge are ~0.2 mm behind the edge.

For the people interested, in 2015 i started a thread on the Australian Blade Forums about sharpening with Paper Wheels:

https://www.australianbladeforums.com/vb4/sharpening/24087-paper-wheel-edges.html

Never seen such an oval stone before, but how it works is clear to me.
The narrower ends of the stone grind the upper part of the bevel, while the wider midsections form the apex.
The oval shape of the stone takes care of a smooth transitioning, thereby forming the convex shape.
Very clever btw.
Maybe an idea for Tormek.

Wenger Swissors with replaceable TiNi coated and serrated blades work very well on Kevlar and many other difficult to cut fabrics.

Picture of my own small knife rest as i currently use it: https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3459.msg28441#msg28441

Ham knives and long salmon filleting knives can be sharpened very well on a home made small knife rest, imo noticeably better than with the SVM-140 clamp.

@Ken: the dimensions of my own MDF strop with 1.0 micron diamond paste:

Length: 20.7 cm
Width 5.0 cm
Thickness: 2.1 cm
Total hight due to the rubber bumpers: 2.5 cm

I chose these measurements based on stropping Chef knives, as these have wider blades.
The edges on the long sides have been rounded just a little bit with fine sandpaper before i put on the diamond paste. (also useful for stropping serrations)
In the future i also plan to experiment a bit with diamond spray instead of paste.

The professional grade of diamond paste i use originates from this US based company: https://microstar2000.com/metallography/26/DIAPAT+Diamond+Paste

A cheaper option might be this US based company: https://www.techdiamondtools.com/
I bought a few different diamond powders from them in the past (good quality stuff i might add, with a long lifespan in my use), and i plan to try a few of their diamond pastes as well once my current supply runs out.
Owner Yuriy has proven to be a dependable dealer, and he is based in California.