Messages

I really like your bench idea. Is it working well for you?

Bench is good. Although when I'm out with the Tormek I rely on the Keter Box combination as Tormek stand.
By the way I have modified it and cut the lower boc top so I can take of the wheel and place it there exposed to air and not closed in the box developing algae/ bacteria/ or what it is, on the leather wheel Also letting me easy to take of when need to lift into the car (some 2+kg less).
Besides, I also have a polishing machine in the box too for blade shaping on behalf of the stone space.
On the last order from Tormek I've ordered some CBN wheels and T-2's. Will be interesting to see an test them.
I wonder if it would be possible to adopt the T-2 knife jig to the T-8? i would put it on the machine with an adjustable slider to compensate for the stone wear.

P.s did you get my mail? Sent few months ago?

Wow, nice thinking. Great idea. Haven't been active here for long time 
As was mentioned above the "only" problem is when changing direction of knife with the CBN wheel. Would work greatwith the SG/SB/SJ-250 as I see it.
I had long ago almost same thoughts but with the desire of new wheel with 40~45dgrs sharpening angle. I even thought of modifying a SG-250 wheel for the purpose and bending the US for that. But no tools or time for it. That way it would be possible to sharpen on both directions and having a straight bevel. the other benefit would be that the handle is away from the leather wheel.

Jan,
Just as Herman stated the WM-200 is not constructed to measure the cutting bevel but the flat side of the chisel. E.g for knifes it's the secondary bevel. Cause it is not straight I add about 1~1.5 dgrs to compensate. Actually measuring with the WM-200 giving us the angle on the other side. The side with the contact to the stone.

As for adding for the "real" angle, whether it is given for the cutting edge or the heel I did not care till now, and will not care in the future as I get good results and don't want to complicate a simple process.
So. For ex. measuring 15 dgrs gives me about 32dgrs edge that works very well for kitchen knifes.
That with the reservations for my added experience and knowledge of what the customer wants

Ken,

Thanks for the well and thorow full report.

Interesting academic reading.
I often wondered what angle is the WM-200 is referring to and thought it was a straight line from the cutting tip and the heel, letting the hollow be there. I measured the hollow theoretically to be somewhere btw 0.007~0.009 mm with 200~250mm stone dia. which is neglectable.

To make it practical:
Now I can measure WM-200 setting + 1~1.5dgrs to compensate for the difference and have what I thought I had?
To that add 1.5 dgrs for the long bevel in modern kitchen knifes as the WM-200 is intended for measuring chisel edge.
Or, measure on WM-200 14 dgrs will give me about about 16.5dgrs or 33dgrs included.
That would be as close as possible for the "desired" cutting angle. Right?

Wolfy, you can find it on the web also. Knife terminology is the Tower of Babel (אֶת-הָעִיר וְאֶת-הַמִּגְדָּל‎). Babel is the Hebrew name for Babylon and according to the Bible, the city received the name "Babel" from the Hebrew word balal, meaning to confuse. 

Jan

So Babel is the biblical word for Bevel?  Big like to the new added interpretation to the word 

Jan, Hebrew is my second native language 

According to the biblical story God didn't like the fact that the ppl in a town named Bab-ili (gate to God) in Mesopotamia (Today's Irak) has built a tall tower to reach God. To make it difficult to them God gave them different languages so they will not be able to communicate and finish the tower that could reach to him and spread them around the world. Etc, etc... Nice story to explain the many different languages.
The dictionary Babylon (the town named in the Tora) came from same word too.

Maybe Bla, bla, bla is also inspired from Babel

The confusion I was referring to is Tomas statement "Ordinary Scandi Grind ALWAYS has a smal secondary bevel"
I think he meant Secondary grind. E.g primary bevel.
The Secondary Bevel is long and characterize the long Scandi grind with very small primary bevel/ edge.

[ALWAYS]

I guess there is some cunfusion regarding the grindings and the edges and I might be able to spread som light in this issue.

Ordinary Scandi Grind ALWAYS has a smal secondary bevel.

One more thing to keep in mind that often causes missunderstandings: Primary grinding = secondary bevel and secondary grinding = primary edge.
/Thomas at MORAKNIV

Now I got confused  . Sorry.

If Scandi grind has always small secondary bevel (micro bevel) that must be the primary edge=secondary grinding and not secondary bevel. Right?

Thanks for the links Grepper.
For knife sharpener, knowledge of steels and their characteristics is important.
I had the chance to sharpen a chef's knife with ZDP-189 steel. Big like Did it with the SB stone. The owner was afraid I would destroy it but asked me to give it a shot. Couldn't see happier person around for a while.

Wolfy, my devices are built from MERKUR which is a Czech toy metal construction set. http://www.merkurtoys.cz/en/

When I saw your construction I remembered the MEKANO factory in Sweden where I use to live near to. They moved from that location long ago. The factory was situated in a very nice wood outside of Stockholm.

MERKUR is nice too. Great parts for small projects when the fantasy and mechanical abilities develop. Today kids only think digital.

Jan, do you use MEKANO parts for your building projects?

For me the secondary bevel is visible by the necked eye while the micro-bevel is not.   

Jan

Depends on your eye condition Isn't it?
I would always assume there is a micro bevel when there is a scandi grind. Otherwise the edge would be to vulnerable. The visibility of it depends on how far up on the secondary it is placed and if it is straight or convex bevel. The convex is difficult to distinguish. Also the convex will not reflect the laser so you can measure it right. 

I looked at it again and came with same conclusion as I had 1/2 year ago.
For practical usage a pivot point should be established at...........
Same as on the T2. A jig that is needed could be made of round profile bent and used as USB in it's original base on the machine. I can also think of other ideas to bring the pivot point to the right place. Tormek has the resources to built it if they would like to invest in this. I left the idea long ago.
For me the T2 is not a good alternative yet, as the magnet problem is not solved. Placing a magnet near the knife resulting in magnetised knife with lots of metal dust on it, is wrong in a food environment.

Scandi grind (Long secondary bevel) can't be used for cutting as its end (if used as long primary bevel) will result in very thin and breakable edge.
Scandi grind is used to give lower profile to the knife so there will be lower cutting resistance and smoother transition the primary edge to the back of it.

Today you can see it in almost all kitchen knives. Long bevel from the back of the knife to the primary that is made with belt grinder and is so small sometimes that ppl don't notice it.

Remember Victorinox recommendation of thinning the knife? Same idea but with secondary bevel already established making giving the knife 3 bevels and no straight knife side.
This is why I add 1~2 dgrs to the VM-200 reading compared to the angled measured with chisel profile.

I was thinking of vertical with a block of 30mm width and 50mm deep, profiled according to the wheel/ knife sharpening angle etc... that will move the USB out.
I do consider to try to cut a SVD-110 to 30mm and produce it that way.

Jan

just a thought about your jig.
Why not turn the SVD-110 vertically with added 30mm spacer for the handle clearance?