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Is the slicer blade larger in diameter than the Tormek stone? If so, remove the nut holding the stone on and place the slicer blade next to the stone and reattach the nut. Now, you can spin the slicer blade and apply a sharpening stone to the edge of the slicer blade. Use the tool rest guide as a steady rest as you hold the sharpening stone in your hand. If the Tormek stone is too large, see if you can do the same thing on the honing wheel side. Even if the Tormek stone is too large to allow accessing both sides of the slicing blade, you might could do one side at a time. You could put the slicing blade on the inside of the Tormek grinding blade. If you can raise a burr on the slicing blade then you  will give it an edge that you can knock off on the honing wheel. Just a thought.

You would need a bushing the diameter of the blade opening to the Tormek shaft diameter and then you lose quite a few threads where the nut is supposed to hold.  (not something I would recommend as I have seen someones finger via one of these blades)

Good job finding a solution.

Might I ask if you considered a piece of leather, like an old belt?  (tighten more at the high part and fatten out at the low)

Slicer blades are a specific thing that I take to a professional shop, that also services them.  I do this for a friends restaurant (older folk, not good with lifting that much weight).
They do have stones to sharpen them on the slicer, which if done on occasion, will cut down the amount they have to go to the pro's (typically when a power switch brakes).

There are free Word viewers for both Mac and Windows.  Search Google to find them.

I don't have a Mac, but I think the Mac OS includes a program called TextEdit that can read Word documents.  If not just find a free one.

Also, on the page https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bye-818SN85DdzB3bU9aUU81eTg/view?pref=2&pli=1 move the mouse button just above the top of the document and a download button will appear.  I know, stupid to have disappearing buttons, but that's what they did.

Libreoffice, Open Office, both will do some stuff, but that hidden download button, sucks.  (thought it was an online only Google docs thing)
I've had issues with some Google stuff before, because I don't have an account/email, etc.
And see the prior post about the OSes (Unix, Linux, server stuff).

Thanks Jan.

I try to use international standards verses software from a convicted monopolist that won't run on my OS's.

Thanks, Jan. That is the link to the kenjig pdf.

Ken

Where is the pdf link?  The link I see, is in some sort of Doc format. (didn't see a readily available save button)

The T4 is a smaller unit.  Better in one way (size for transport), no different in some ways (some tools), and worse in others (some tools the wider stone works better on).  Price wise, it tends to be close to a T7 since certain things don't come with it but they do with a T7.  T7 and the 2005 are also rated for heavier duty (no difference to the average homeowner/user, but would be a difference if you ran a sharpening business and didn't leave it for hours on end).
The 2005 is close to the T7, as I thought the T7 came out in 2007.
The 2005 is green, the T7 is blue.
The 2005 is probably the chrome shaft, or at the very early stainless shaft model, where a current T7 has the stainless shaft with tool free knurled nut for removing the stone/lubing the shaft/maintenance.
I believe by 2005, the front tool support had two knobs on it, but it was one knob on that model at some point, the T7 has two.
The 2005 would be out of warranty, where a new T7 would have one.  (basically how close is the price)
The water trough has changed in the last couple of years to a slightly wider one on the T7 (not enough difference for most people to worry about).
One jig, MIGHT be a bit different (don't know when it changed, from the SE-60 to the SE-76) and the 2005 MIGHT have the old bit in the truing jig.

Thank you.
Saw the number change, but couldn't see what the explanation was.  Now wondering if there is another upgrade kit.

Ken, Grepper

Thanks for posting the prices on those knives.  It gives me a better idea of what might be good price ranges for practice stuff.
Between a damaged freight store, a local restaurant supply house, a local sharpening/knife specialty store (that sells used knives and deals with swapping out restaurants and equipment the Tormek won't do, like Slicer knives), I've got a good idea of what is reasonable to spend.

Not sure about cannot, as I have never heard one auto shutting off.

The duty cycle has to do with heat.  They recommend run for  30 minutes and let sit for 30 minutes.  There have been a few posts here, and I believe they demo'd one along side the T7 at a woodworking show.  When you initially get a Tormek, you tend to have a lot of tools to do.   After doing them, it is less often.  That is different if your doing sharpening for a living.

[The old truing tool has an upgrade for it. The tool was a missing piece on mine so I ordered a new one.]

SADW's last post gives us much food for thought. The Tormek is evolving, and continues to do so. As with most products, some of these improvements are substantial and some are less so. I consider the combination of the new TT-50 truing tool and micro adjust universal support must have innovations.
The old truing tool has an upgrade for it.  The tool was a missing piece on mine so I ordered a new one.
I suspect the new switch was must have to satisfy safety regulators, although it seems more necessary with a table saw than with a Tormek.
Only reason I mentioned the switch, was I saw it in a discussion, that involved unplugging the Tormek while running and plugging it back in.

The new water tray seems "nice to have" although many of us do fine with a towel to catch the water and a taped on magnet.

The front sleeves are right up there for me with the improved truing tool and universal support. I like SADW's thought about possibly upgrading to the two screw model and using his present front sleeves like a BGM-100. If I ever get really innovative, I will make a wooden base for my Tormek with several BGM-100s to allow much more flexible use of the Tormek.

I started before the EZYlock shaft. I could certainly work without it, although I would miss it. I would classify it "really nice to have".

The newer square edge jig is easier to use. However, many original jigs still give trooper service. The new design also handles plane blades wider than 60mm. For anyone using a number eight jointer plane this is a game changer.

The lower angle range with the anglemaster could easily be measured with a rule and added with a fine tip marker. Not an elegant fix, but certainly workable. I would replace an ancient WM-100 ancestral anglemaster.

The wheel diameter is easily measured with a rule when the wheel is removed to relube the bushings. The diameter scale is clever, but far from a top priority.

All totaled, the improvements to the Tormek are substantial. When one includes the substantial new Tormek warranty, buying new makes sense to me. Upgrading just the universal support, truing tool and shaft will add two hundred dollars to the cost of an older Tormek. In the rare case of motor repair, your bargain Tormek becomes just "for parts".

That being said, if I saw a Tormek in reasonable condition for well under two hundred dollars, it might end up being a second unit for my SJ-250 fine stone. My chances are slim to none of finding that deal.

Thanks again, SADW, good post.

Ken

The newer square edge jig isn't the only one that changed. From reading here, if one has the SE-60, it is worth hanging on to, besides using the SE-76 for some stuff.
The SVS-38 changed during it as well and I believe the old was SVS-40 (really wish Tormek would have a legacy section of the site, for historical purposes). 
The SVD-186 has changed a couple times (believe mine was an SVD-180, upgraded to a SVD-185).
The SVS-50 has changed in size somewhat.   Gave my dad the old and I obtained another on the day I needed it and he was out of town.  (finding things in anothers shop, can be an experience)

This is where I say I would disagree with you:
I will say the EZ lock shaft, IMHO, is an upgrade one NEEDS to buy, if they are on the old chrome shafts.  If one gets one that is stainless steel and has the regular nut, then it is only a nice thing to have.  Most of the used Tormek stuff I have seen, have the rust around the shaft issue, and I am sure the flaking chrome issue (mine had missing chrome, but was recently cleaned, greased and a new stone put on)  I've seen rust more then not, and most people I know, life gets in the way of maintenance, more often then not.  The only reason not to, is you already have it, the stainless shaft, or someone has given you their old stainless shaft, that uses a nut, when they upgraded (I looked before spending money, no luck).

The anglemaster has spots to determine what angle the knife is/was.  Harder to do on a dull knife, but it may have a sharp spot one can still check.  Marker method is another valid and good method to learn.
What style of knives are they?  Western style kitchen knives are generally 20 degree's, while Eastern style kitchen knives (and some of the custom Japanese ones I see selling here, that are still carbon steel), are generally 15 degrees.
Can't mess them up, DON'T start with them.  LEARN first on some old, or inexpensive knife (garage sales, cheap knife from store, freebie someone gives you, etc).  Happy wife, happy life and you don't want to get it just sharp enough for her to only be happy using in on her husband.

Certainly, if it were local, at a low price, I would be over it for a couple of reasons:
1.  Wanted to do a manual water wheel for years and it takes up less space then the yard art ones I see.
2.  My understanding is the stone changed at some point between that one, and the 2000 model.  I would love to try the stone.

For the T2000, or the Supergrind 2000 (name depending on when it was made), you need to know its condition and if any upgrades have been done, before you spend that kind of money, IMHO, coming from someone who did that.
Mine is a Supergrind 2000, that I bought used, with multiple jigs (all the turning ones), for less then $200 (rare price).  The upgrades that happened during its lifetime, compared to new and what has been upgraded:
Frame design changed from square and gained a wheel size sticker.
Additional mounting part for the bar (front sleeves)
Shaft with microadjust came out, I have both.
Some of the jigs changed somewhere along the way.
Switch changed along the way.
Shaft went to stainless steel, then later to stainless and tool free wheel change.
Front mounting gained a second knob.
The anglemaster has changed to ad smaller degree's.
Water tray has changed on the T7's to the newer style. (wider)

My frame is the same design as the current, compared with some of the square frame ones I still see for sale.  (clearance issues on some things, according to some old Farris posts)
The prior owner, chipped the stone after letting it set on the shaft for too long.  He replaced the stone, prior to me buying it, and I bought the new stainless, tool free shaft.
I bought the hand tool kit, which included some updated jigs.
I upgraded the water tray and bought the rotating base.
I have yet to buy the upgrade, two knob front mount (haven't seen the need, but will and use the old, non threaded bar, with the old on the bench grinder for rough shaping work, as a BGM 100)
I have yet to upgrade or replace the anglemaster (have access to another, but haven't needed anything that low, yet).
I expected to have to refinish mine, as chipping paint was a frequent topic in the past (seems they went from paint to powder coat at some point).  But I spent time cleaning the old glue and sawdust from the base, where he had it on his bench, and I found no chips/rust or need to.

No copyright date inside the cover?