Messages

Herman,
Even if the T-8 has several benefits, the T-7 was sold the last month for a better price and is still a very good machine.
I know that for many new users the discount on the T-7 made them to the purchase knowing the T-8 would be a bit more expensive.

Best,
Stig

Hi,

The grid in the stonegrader and the SB-250 are close in hardness. The grid in the stonegrader is larger and bound harder.
A trick is to use the stonegraders edge and use more pressure than on the SG stones.
Then you will remove more binding material and the stone becomes active.

Stig

Hi everyone,

We are excited to tell you that it is time to unveil the new Tormek T-8!
The official launch will be tomorrow morning (CEST) at www.tormek.com
We know we have some very dedicated Tormek users here and want to give you first notice.

Stay sharp!

Ps. We are also on Facebook and Instagram these days.
Facebook – Tormek
Instagram – Tormek_sharpening

Herman,
Sounds like I have the eyes of superman :-)

Its not the burr itself I see, its the compound on the burr that shows. So when I am at the edge the burr catches more compound and shows the burr at the edge.
While honing you can anctually see that the burr/compound loosen and after a few more turns on the honingwheel the edge is pefectly sharp.

I probably use more honingcompound than the common user and I guess it's after all the demos I am doing. I show the hole process from shaping, sharpening, honing and papercutting/endgrain for every interested.
In the handbook we write that one application of compound last for 5-10 tools. This is correct but I use as little as possible every time which works good also.

I think we need to get this on film, hope my explination is understandible.

Brett,
There is some pictures about freehand grinding in the handbook in the chapter "Honing and Polishing"

Best,
Stig

Jan,
When i first started at Tormek i used the jigs while honing. These days I do the honing freehand but with the jig still attached to the blade so if I see that I need to remove more steel, I still have the right adjustments and can sharpen more without re-mounting the knife. It also gives me better balance/control while honing.
You will not need to remove the stone with longer knifes, just turn the knife a little aside so you don't touch the stone. Actually the burr get removed a bit faster doing this than keeping the blade signed over the honing wheel. Freehand honing demands a little practice but its very well described in the handbook.

It's important to keep the knife/tool horizontal on top of the honing wheel and pull it slowly towards you until you see the burr starts to move at the edge. Then you know you are at the right place and can start to hone the edge using the burr as a guide.

Stig

The SVM-45 came about 3 years ago with the Zinc cast and improved angles.
The handtool kits gets the upgraded jigs before we send our the jigs itself. So by the time the jigs gets out in stores the Kits has been updated a bit earlier.

Stig

Hi,
Just to clarify regarding material of the jigs and parts on machines. In the past we always used Aluminium and some jigs are still made of Aluminium. The last years we have been using Zinc as it gives us better tolerances among other benefits. The first Zinc jig was the drill-bit holder on the DBS-22. Then we changed the SWM-45 , followed by the top of the T-4, SVS-38, SVD-186 and now also on the SE-77. I don't know how many members on the forum has both versions on any of these but the difference is very noticeable, both in the way they look, weight and performance.
Best,
Stig

Hi,
I sharpen knifes often, on every demo, at home, for friends etc. After a while you also learn to use more or less pressure and the grid on the stone is not a big concern.
With more expensive knifes or when sharpening for someone I know that are a very picky person I use the stonegrader and polish the stone to get a finer surface.
But by using the honingwheel I always get a razor sharp edge and I can use more time on it to polish the edge line if necessary.
So its not only the grid on the stone that's important but also to learn the sound of the stone, how it removes material and also the pressure you use. If the stone is coarse, use as light pressure you can the last 8-10 strokes to get a finer finish without using the stonegrader.

Stig

Hi,
We always help the customers with their problems. However, if a stone cracks after 10-20 years the stone has been used for a very long time and are most often in need for a replacement so we usually work out a good solution for the user.

But as I wrote earlier, its better to contact support first as it will take few days to get it sorted. I try to follow the forum on a daily basis but when traveling I can be on the road for 2-3 weeks or we might have vacation. The support is checked on a daily basis and will be the fastest way to help the user.

Sincerely,
Stig

Hi,

If there are any problems with a Tormek product I really hope that the user will contact support@tormek.se for help.

Sincerely,
Stig

Jan,
I have a F.Dick Finecut that I use when I am a bit to lazy to take the knifes from the kitchen 

Sincerely,
Stig

What I find very useful is that I can test and find the optimal edge degree we use in our household.
I have several Japanese knifes which I chose to have 22 degree and then our European knifes, mostly Mora chef knifes with Sandvik 12C27 steel I have 30 degree on, as most of their knife has from the factory. I am referring to a total degree angel so with the WM-200 you would need to use half the amount.
With some knife-care I sharpen our knifes 2 times a year and hone them on the leather-honingwheel 3-4 times a year. I do have a Dick steel that I hone some knifes on a couple a times a year.
When I help friends with there knifes I mostly use 30 degree or more on hunting knifes it also depends on the steel in the blade.
Every man or woman uses they're knifes in different ways so in general a edge within 30 to 40 degree is normal.

A short story: A friend of mine imports Japanese knifes and got a call from a man who bought 2 expensive knifes for his twin daughters. He had spent time at both their families over Christmas and called to say that one of the knifes was not any good and wanted a change it on warranty. At his first daughters place the knife was very sharp and at his second daughter place the knife was dull, he knew that both was very sharp to start with. Must be something wrong with that knife he thought.
My friend started to ask him how they treated their knifes and it did not take long for the father to understand that the daughters had very different styles of taking care of things and understood that there was no wrong with the knife, it was not taken care of.

High quality steel, correct angle and a good sharpener makes an edge. Taking care of it keeps an edge.

Sincerely,
Stig

Hi,
Page 48-52 in the handbook is very informative. Called "Which jig should I use?"

Also on the webpage http://tormek.com/international/en/which-jig-should-i-use/

Sincerely,
Stig

As I understand this is that Titan is "polishing" the stone with a 1200 grid diamond stone which will flatten the stone and make a temporary 1000 grid stone.
It may take less time than using the SP-650 but new grids will appear as usual so it's a constant work if you need a very fine stone, as with the SP-650.
We believe the SP-650 works very well and it is design to work with all our stones.
What I have noticed is that many users are a bit to gentle using the stonegrader and therefore it takes longer time. I normally use the stonegrader 15-20 seconds to achieve the grid I want. And I always listen to the stone and visually check the result on my tool before going "All-in".

Best,
Stig

Hi all,
As Ken S stated, these stones was from a small Island outside Swedens east coast called Gotland. It's many swedes favourite vacation place.
These stones was more sensitive to be left in water and it took longer to sharpen and definitely to remove steel.
The SG stone we made are better in every way, they last longer, don't swell, gives a better/cleaner edge and sharpens faster.
But at that time the Tormek natural stone was the best we had to offer!

Best,
Stig