Messages

...snip...
I did try sharpening the 3/8" radiused cutter using the SVD 110 Tool Rest. 
...snip...
Rick

Correction.  The rest I used WAS the scissors jig rest, not the Tool Rest.  I don't see why the Tool Rest couldn't be used, but the scissors jig rest has a nice slick sliding surface, so I think I like it better. 

Rick

I just learned something about how this forum monkey handles uploaded photos.  Whether the photo is landscape or portrait oriented, the monkey always, only displays them landscape.  So anything that is portrait is rotated 90 deg.  and displayed with the long edge horizontal. 

I posted a few minutes ago about sharpening a HSS lathe turning cutter and all were rotated.  I modified the post to delete the photos and re-upload a new set that had been cropped to be landscape oriented and they now look right. 

And I didn't have any issues uploading them as I had with others, even though they had been modified on my computer to resize them as well as re-oriented. 

Rick

This was a conversation on the Knife Sharpening forum (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3365.msg21030#msg21030), but seems more appropriate here:

Rick,

In the 2nd photo which shows the Tormek, I see a metal lathe in the background.  Have you tried to sharpen your lathe tools on the Tormek ?  If so, any luck / thoughts / guidance you can share ?

Kind regards,
Rich

Rich,

No, I have not, part because I understand I need a different stone.  But, I wonder about that because my drills are all HSS and they can be sharpened on the standard stone. Another reason is that I don't use many ground HSS cutting tools, mostly insert tooling, both HSS and carbide.  But...  I want to learn. And third, I just haven't had much time for playing with the lathe lately, and that is in part due to me spending more of my free time fiddling with the T8.  Is that circular logic, or what? 

Further, I never learned how to free-hand grind HSS cutters very well, so have not attempted much.  But... and there is always a "but".  I make bamboo fly fishing rods.  I also make and sell a tool for making the wood reel seat mounting insert for fishing rods (more precisely, I have the parts made and I assemble them into the tool [mandrel]).  For turning of a recess in the wood reel seat cylinder, I had ground HSS cutters with a 3/8" radiused nose.  I had 10 ground, cost me $300 and I sold 9 of them for $30 ea.  Now, if I could rough them on a traditional high speed grinder and finish them on the Tormek, and still sell them for $30, I'd have look at it.  Another but.  There are carbide circular inserts available, so i don't think it pencils out. 

For that one remaining 3/8" radius cutter, I will sharpen it with the Tormek, but I do not yet have the proper jig.  But I do have the toolrest jig, which it seems could be used. 

Rick

I thought I saw another post describing some of the jigs that could be use for turning HSS lathe tools, but have not been able to find it.  I did try sharpening the 3/8" radiused cutter using the SVD 110 Tool Rest.  It worked very well and I'll use it more.  Several photos follow, first couple show the angles and front face, then setting up the
Tool Rest and matching the angle with a marker.  Last shows the finished sharpened cutter.  The finish is much finer than the original, but the photos don't seem to show it as well as I can see it.  The sharpened cutter is much smoother and more uniformly radiused and has a fairly mirror-like finish.  I have to believe it is sharper.

I wasn't planning on buying either the SVD 186 Gouge Jig or the SVS 38 Short Tool Jig as I don't use (or have) those tools, but I may now that I see how they may be used for something I do need. 

Rick

May seem like a silly question, but how do you know which measurement is accurate?  (What's the saying... a man with two watches never knows the exact time). 

I'm taking your question as "tongue in cheek", but will answer it seriously (of which I assume you already know).  By definition, a precision measuring device such as calipers should be more accurate than a graduated ruler.  But, there are "standards" available for checking and calibrating said precision devices.  Those pictured are for micrometers, but work for calipers.  There are 1-2-3 blocks and I have a full set of gauge pins from 0.0610" to 0.5000" (and the digits are significant).   

Said another way, not all watches are the same.

Rick

Well, you know, I have a hobby metal lathe (7" x 14", from Grizzly), and I've made a number of parts for sharpening on it.  Probably something to think about ....

That lathe of yours looks like it is really solid !

Rich

Solid and precise.  Monarch 10EE, but it actually swings just under 13".  One of two "ultimate" lathes for a home shop machinist. 

I started in 2000 with the same type of lathe, (7x10, then 7x14" Grizzly) and a Grizzly MiniMill, graduated to an Atlas 10" lathe, then South Bend 9A lathe.  The big jump was to a Rivett 1020 at 1500 lb in 2007.  Full restoration, 1941 vintage.  Unfortunately, it got dumped on its face during moving a bit over a year ago.  Surprisingly minor damage. But I opted to graduate to the Monarch, also, fully restored, 1946 version, with DRO.

Rick

Rick,

In the 2nd photo which shows the Tormek, I see a metal lathe in the background.  Have you tried to sharpen your lathe tools on the Tormek ?  If so, any luck / thoughts / guidance you can share ?

Kind regards,
Rich

Rich,

No, I have not, part because I understand I need a different stone.  But, I wonder about that because my drills are all HSS and they can be sharpened on the standard stone. Another reason is that I don't use many ground HSS cutting tools, mostly insert tooling, both HSS and carbide.  But...  I want to learn. And third, I just haven't had much time for playing with the lathe lately, and that is in part due to me spending more of my free time fiddling with the T8.  Is that circular logic, or what? 

Further, I never learned how to free-hand grind HSS cutters very well, so have not attempted much.  But... and there is always a "but".  I make bamboo fly fishing rods.  I also make and sell a tool for making the wood reel seat mounting insert for fishing rods (more precisely, I have the parts made and I assemble them into the tool [mandrel]).  For turning of a recess in the wood reel seat cylinder, I had ground HSS cutters with a 3/8" radiused nose.  I had 10 ground, cost me $300 and I sold 9 of them for $30 ea.  Now, if I could rough them on a traditional high speed grinder and finish them on the Tormek, and still sell them for $30, I'd have look at it.  Another but.  There are carbide circular inserts available, so i don't think it pencils out. 

For that one remaining 3/8" radius cutter, I will sharpen it with the Tormek, but I do not yet have the proper jig.  But I do have the toolrest jig, which it seems could be used. 

Rick

Replacement Angle Master Storage Plate just fell off.  I'm not using it much so I think I'll just leave it off and store the AM with the other jigs and such.  For knives, I am primariy using Wootz's app and wheel marking gauges. 

I received a Lee Valley micro-adjust metric marking gauge today.  Nice unit, but I found the graduations to be about 1 mm off.  When set to 139 mm, it is actually 137.8 mm measured with a Mitutoyo in/mm digital caliper. I'd have thought it would be better than that. I"ll have to remember the error when setting it or use calipers.  I may just use the micro-adjust head on the 9" ungraduated rod for setting the USB height. 

Rick

I have combination squares that could be used but I wanted something that could be dedicated to the Tormek.  So, taking something from my limited experience with pattern making, I bought a "wheel marking depth gauge", graduated in both inch and metric.  Unfortunately, it doesn't extend far enough for some setting off the USB, so I grabbed a piece of 5/16" stainless rod from my stock rack and made a 9" shaft.  The new shaft is not graduated at all, that doesn't really matter because I use my calipers to set the distance and set the making gage off of the calipers.  I have a 6" Mitutoyo electronic caliper that reads out in metric also, so use that for setting the knife jib distance, but I only a 12" dial caliper for USB distances over 6" and it is only inch, so I have to do the inch/metric conversion and then set the extended shaft marking gage for the USB height settings.  I've been using WOOTZ's software, which is really sweet. 

Rick

P.S. I tried uploading a couple photos of these, but the system said they didn't pass security and couldn't be uploaded.

Trying to upload images taken with my iPhone, downsized in email transmission and not further modified on my computer.

Rick

Very interesting.  Is the placement of the hole critical?  There were no dimensions (distances from nearest two edges) mentioned that I found, other than the size of the hole.  Seems like it should matter. 

Rick

Sorry... I got this error once, I thought renaming it solved it.

Only other problem I've had is when I updated to iOS11.  It uses a new HEIC format, which wouldn't upload.  I had to convert it to a jpg.  (But I don't remember getting a security error with that).

My photos were JPG to start with, and named quite simply: Photo 1 and Photo 2.  Tried posting from my iPad, but could not even post a reply, let alone photos.  I could swear I posted a photo before.  I've replied to a Tormek IT guy, asking to have the photos to examine.  Maybe that will get somewhere.

Thanks,

Rick

Make sure you're within the size limit restrictions of the forum, and if you are, you might try renaming the photo, and see if that solves it.

There are two photos.  Sizes: 121kb and 123kb.  The names were not terribly complex but I tried renaming them to "Photo 1" and Photo 2", but these were rejected also.  So, I am at a loss, as it seems they are within the size limit and names as simple as can be. 

I'll try them again now. 

Nope, same error. 

Rick

Rick,

I may have the same wheel marking gage:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=59455

Is that it?

Mine is the original uncalibrated version. It's a nice tool, although today I would purchase the micro adjust version. I was setting it up this afternoon to scribe a line 2 3/8" in with plate aluminum. Getting the cutter exactly is the cut line on my Starrett rule was difficult without the microadjust. I think your calipers would set the distance more accurately than the rod calibrations.

Did you leave the rod end square or slightly rounded?

Clever idea; keep up the good work! It seems a good match for Wootz' program.

Ken

Ken,

Cool.  Yes, it is the same, but different.  The one I have is both inch and metric.  I did not know about the micro adjust. Just ordered a metric micro adjust.  Thanks for the heads up on that. 

Rick

The image posted above is a screen shot of the error message, not the photos I'm having trouble with.  I tried posting them in a clean, new thread but had the same error message.  Why can I post a screen shot and not the photos?  Same image format. 

Rick

I'm having trouble uploading photos in a reply.  Getting an error message that says the attachments didn't pass security checks.  Going to try it here on a new topic post. 

Rick

For an easy and accurate setting of the universal support – grindstone distance I have modified the "Starrett combination square". This has been intended for Dutchman and kenjig concepts. For more info see https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2879.msg15575#msg15575

The same tool can also be used for setting the Universal Support height above the top of the Tormek housing in the frame of Wootz bevel angle setting procedure.

Jan

I have combination squares that could be used but I wanted something that could be dedicated to the Tormek.  So, taking something from my limited experience with pattern making, I bought a "wheel marking depth gauge", graduated in both inch and metric.  Unfortunately, it doesn't extend far enough for some setting off the USB, so I grabbed a piece of 5/16" stainless rod from my stock rack and made a 9" shaft.  The new shaft is not graduated at all, that doesn't really matter because I use my calipers to set the distance and set the making gage off of the calipers.  I have a 6" Mitutoyo electronic caliper that reads out in metric also, so use that for setting the knife jib distance, but I only a 12" dial caliper for USB distances over 6" and it is only inch, so I have to do the inch/metric conversion and then set the extended shaft marking gage for the USB height settings.  I've been using WOOTZ's software, which is really sweet. 

Rick

P.S. I tried uploading a couple photos of these, but the system said they didn't pass security and couldn't be uploaded.