Messages

Ken you're right they don't have to endorse any third party product. And I'd be fine with that.

They don't have to say "in the end it doesn't matter" when in fact it does, either.  When they do that they - in my opinion - stray from the image they deserve of a company that strives for continuous improvement.

As for the Angle Master, I dare anyone, Tormek guru or not, to successfully use it on say, a standard , spot-on-15dps Fibrox knife. The only knife I can think of that would measure okay for the angle master is a traditional japanese blade such as a usuba. But that's probably a very bad idea to sharpen it on a tormek.

But don't get me wrong, my intent is just to share whatever few reservations I has watching this video with other Tormek enthusiasts because I think debating is in the best common interest. I've been proven blatantly wrong on more than a few misconceptions I had, and I feel that has sped up my learning curve a lot. Not using the AngleMaster for knives would have spared me quite some time messing up knives then putting them back where I wanted them.

Again, I feel the rest of the video is VERY interesting. It has me thinking a lot on whether or not I should try sharpening hawkbills on my T8, and with what jig. I'm not convinced it's a good idea yet, but I will certainly give it a try with a cheap opinel one.

Cheers,

Nick.

I totally enjoyed the video. It gives a lot of food for thought, and I'm not dismissing it in its entirety, at all.

I just disagree with their evaluation of the respective benefits of the Angle Master for knives and the computer programs. I think they'd be better off saying "go with the sharpie, google what a kenjig is, or download one of these nifty computer programs", instead of dismissing it on shaky grounds that would cast a doubt on the rest of their reasoning, however good the latter is. I loved the half-moon jigs idea, it was quite illustrative. And I also need to watch it a few more times.

Cheers,

Nick.

[Yes it does]

It is very detailed and very interesting.

Still, they sometimes can't seem to get to acknowledge that "hey, sometimes we don't come up with the best idea". What they are saying with knife tilting and pivoting one way or the other makes sense, essentially: try with the sharpie and see what looks better. But then they say "some computer programs are more precise than our angle master but in the end that doesn't matter because of all the 3D movements". [Edited for the typo]

Yes it does : errors compound themselves, and using a precise software will make sure that not only are you better off for the part of the blade that is parallel to the USB, but also you will be able to replicate the same inital position on different stones. So whatever deviation you introduce with the lifting/pivoting combined action will not come on top of an already biased initial position. And the angle master is indeed a pain in the butt for most knives. I say either use TormekCalc or the sharpie, dont bother with the Angle master for knives. It's OK for standard chisels though.

4 hours to go !

I feel compelled to refer to the excellent video by wootz on grading (it follows an equally good one on truing) if you haven't come across it yet. I love the feeling I get after the wheel has been graded with a #80 diamond plate when I need it coarse, much more so than after i've trued. And I feel I need to true much less when using the diamond plates the way shown in the video.

For 3D print afficionados, the water tank is here

I use a Facom cart. It is on the high side but I'm tall and I like tohave my face close to the work when I sharpen on the Tormek so it is fine. And It has a lot of room in the drawers.

I cut custom tray linings from the thick ShadowFoam blocks. The Easy Peel version works a treat. As it's customcut, it is optimized for the jigs I own with no room lost. Plus it is oil/water spillage resistant.

Cheers,

Nick.

I also like the composite wheel very much. I like the feel and the result, which is almost SJ-like in its shininess. There is a short break-in period during which some kind of lint comes off the wheel. I do not sharpen enough that I will have an idea on durability, and therefore on the return on investment wrt the leather one + compound.

I think it would really shine in the farmer's market type of use : no fuss, paired with either the SG or -maybe better - with a diamond wheel or set thereof: no need to change the water nor the height of the USB.

I do think though that having a FVB is a HUGE plus as far as the end result is concerned.

I would add to Rich's comment that cheapo drill bits, when properly sharpened with the DBS-22, cut way better than they originally do. I had a whole series of blunt drill bits bought at the french equivalent of Home Depot, I converted them to 90° with the relief angle, and they now serve often in drilling polycarbonate and variopus plastics. The holes are clean as can be.

Cheers,

Nick.

One thing I learned over the years is that some people don't like their knives sharp. Driving a wedge through a carrot with a knife that's as blunt as a screwdriwer is just fine with them because that's the only thing they've worked with. So they put a lot of pressure, and when things go awry, as they often do with blunt knives, then they usually end up with more of a bruise than a cut.

Using sharp knives requires a change of paradigm for them, which requires time and effort, and therefore willingness to do so. So what I do is first ask them if they are willing to give it a try. My mother waited a full 10 years before she agreed to it. I have them then use my not-so-fancy knives at my place and under supervision, so they can get a feel of what to expect, and only if they feel like it do I then sharpen their knives.

I will never again sharpen knives belonging to someone who didn't ask for it, with the certainty that they will be enlightened. This way when they cut themselves up, they know it's part of the learning curve and the price to pay for enjoying a sharp knife every time they use it. Plus it's usually a clean cut that steristrips handle damn well

As for my 4 years old, he is happy to use this knife and no longer needs the finger guard as he learnt to "claw" his fingers, and to be wary of the edge. This knife is really sharp for a kid knife, but will be forgiving enough when **it happens. And it teaches them the basics of how to hold a knife.

Hi, I don't own a T-3 so it may be just a guess: you seem to be grinding edge-trailing, and I think the horizontal holes for the USB (slide bar) are offset away from the wheel. OI believe the square edge jig is essentially designed to work using the USB in the vertical position, so closer to the wheel, grinding edge leading.

I am not familiar enough with the T3 to know the proper procedure for setting up the USB on it, sorry.

Cheers,

Nick.

Ken, it's okay, it's only fair that we share watch duty !

Hey guys, I just came across this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r_1mZ9XjIs

That sounds like yet another fake review blog set up to grind commissions from Amazon...

Hi !

could be, can you send me these default values? (But at first I will probably add some info table with values for different FVB types.)

Sure: I have measured a default FVB distance F for my KG FVB of 27.8mm. I also set the min FVB distance to this.

I'm not too sure about the precision of the measurements because I am having a hard time precisely taking distances between elements that are not in the same plane. I have a total variable length HF-FVB of 146mm, which seems OK.

Cheers,

Nick.