Messages

Hello Wim,

I tried to address this issue in this post. I know it's not a universally shared opinion but I tried to substantiate it with facts/pictures.

I found that not honing after the SJ, even after many passes at a light pressure, left a wire edge. This wire edge is very hard to detect visually, even with a (bad quality) microscope. But a BESS test confirms the impression that the knife is not all that sharp, the test medium even leaves a dent.

So I respectfully disagree with Tormek's statement that honing is superfluous.

And to be honest, I did not find that removing the burr was much faster after grinding with a SJ compared to the standard SG, I just hone as I would with the SG. The looks are awesome though.

I am not sure what you are trying to achieve with the ACC solution on the SJ. If you're "just" trying to skip the water renewal step in between Dx and SJ stone. For sure, the SJ will not rust. Reusing the solution you used with the diamond stone sounds the perfect recipe for embedding steel particles (and even a few diamonds) into the SJ stone, eventually leaving scratch marks which pretty much negates the interest of the SJ stone.

I hope this helps!

Nick.

I don't understand the conclusion that the T1 will only sharpen the shoulders of the tip area. It is true that the T1 produces a flat grind, unlike the other Tormek models, which produce a very slight hollow grind.

I might be mistaken but it seems to me T1 and T2 are "constant angle" grinders, i.e. the bevel edge is constant along the entire length. The lifting technique, compounded with the "backward pivot" that is sometimes necessary to maintain a "constant width" bevel usually result in a higher angle at the tip. So if you try to match the T8 bevel withg the T1 along the flat-ish part of the blade, you'll end up grinding the shoulders of the tip. I see two ways around that for those who want to combine T1 and T8:
- either sharpen at a constant angle on the T8 using the forward pivot, and sacrifice the evenness of the bevel width
- or apply cb's technique, essentially using the T8 once in a while to thin the blade, and the T1 often to put a macro/microbevel on the knives.

What other hobbies do you enjoy using this shop?

Making parts for offshore fishing boat "StovePipe" and keeping filet knives sharp for boat and others who share the dock.

Wow, you seem about as serious about fishing as you are about sharpening !

I won't expect the edge to be as perfect as with the guided honing I can do on my T8, but with a fish that needs to get into the pan pronto, I won't ever get to the T8.

I personally use the tip area of my knives a lot. The T1 will only sharpen the shoulders of the tip area for reasons mentioned in some other threads, so I came to the conclusion that mixing T8 and T1 was not the best idea.

That is ENTIRELY TOO CLEAN!

Right, I initially thought I could use that as an argument along the "look darling, some hobbyists have much more stuff than I do", but she'd immediatly point out how professional and clean this all looks.

Great job !!!

From my experience the DF will leave a deep scratch pattern onto the bevel. It may not be such an issue in terms of sharpness, but it will look scratched. I would at least advise stropping on CW composite honing wheel.

Cheers,

Nick.

... the knob can hit the upright.  You can position the knife to avoid this, but something to be aware of.

Hey cb,

Do you have any idea what the max length of a knife would be, in order to allow repositioning ? To know if this is a theoretical issue more than a practical one ?

I also understand you need a combination of both significant blade height and high dps, which would mainly mean cleavers only...

Same here, the only times I wanted to use the "old" flexible knife jig, I ended up finding the blade too narrow to allow sharpening at a 15dps angle. So I don't foresee buying the new jig.

Well actually this kind of video is like the utlimate clickbait for me... I foudn myself watching not only this one, but also the one with rust removers and all...

However, I think the KJ-45 deserves a faur chance before we decide that it won't work for convexing.

I was referring to the previous post stating that the best way to convex was freehand on a benchstone. I did not say the KJ-45 could not convex. Will it be "the best way to convex" though?

In any case, I think that someone willing to convex a not-too-thick knife the KJ-45 way could do it very well by sharpening with the older jig : doing a few passes with reduced projection distances by turning the handle by, say, half a turn each time.

I think a slack belt is a best way as it is its intended purpose, as opposed to the byproduct of the intrinsic limits of the technique used.

Right, sorry, recent ipads "pro" and the latest ipad Air have a usb-c connector. There is a (quite expensive Apple or inexpensive noname) lightning-av adapter with a HDMI port for other models.

And just in case, a simple USB-C to HDMI is very easy to set up and allows to duplicate the screen of the iPad.

I purchased a 250mm leather honing wheel from schleifjunkies.

This way I only have to remove the leather wheel (no spacer needed) when I sharpen very long chef knives whose blade heel would hit the honing wheel while sharpening.

Cheers,

Nick.

In which case I cannot encourage you strongly enough to consider the peelable ShadowFoam, which I use anytime I can for that kind of use.

Cheers,

Nick.