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Recent posts
#1
General Tormek Questions / Re: SG-250 clogging / cleaning
Last post by MerryMadMick - Yesterday at 05:23:11 AMThanks Rich.
Would it make more sense to invest in a few of the diamond wheels? Since I use an 180 CBN for shaping, I was thinking the 600 + 1200 diamond wheels to round out the grits.
Thank you.
Would it make more sense to invest in a few of the diamond wheels? Since I use an 180 CBN for shaping, I was thinking the 600 + 1200 diamond wheels to round out the grits.
Thank you.
#2
General Tormek Questions / Re: Ionut's Small Knife Jig
Last post by CopperFish - Yesterday at 03:39:49 AMI bought the scissor jig platform and a variety of aluminum and stainless steel plates in 2"x4" and different thicknesses. Looking forward to making my own!
#3
General Tormek Questions / Re: SG-250 clogging / cleaning
Last post by RichColvin - Yesterday at 02:27:50 AMThe SB-250 was designed for harder steels. You might want to get one of those if you're going to be sharpening such metals often.
#4
General Tormek Questions / SG-250 clogging / cleaning
Last post by MerryMadMick - May 17, 2024, 05:38:55 PMHello,
I've started resetting the primary bevels on my plane irons and chisels, mainly due to creeping skew from years of hand sharpening. I picked up a Tormek bench grinder adapter + wolverine plate so I can use my 8" low speed with a 180 CBN for quick material removal, then I move over to the Tormek for final sharpening and honing.
I've noticed that the SG-250 clogs/looses it's cutting speed pretty quick when sharpening PM-V11 and A2 steels. After about a minute or so the wheel looses its bite and I redress with the coarse side of the grading stone.
There is, of course, a slight difference in the radius of the hollow grind between the 8" CBN and 10" SG-250 which means I'll be using the SG-250 to remove a bit more material to match radii.
I realize that after I'm done, I won't be resetting any primary bevels for a long time and, in theory, I'll only need to touch up the edge on the strop wheel on sharpening day. That being said, for these harder steels, would I be better served with a different wheel?
Thank you.
I've started resetting the primary bevels on my plane irons and chisels, mainly due to creeping skew from years of hand sharpening. I picked up a Tormek bench grinder adapter + wolverine plate so I can use my 8" low speed with a 180 CBN for quick material removal, then I move over to the Tormek for final sharpening and honing.
I've noticed that the SG-250 clogs/looses it's cutting speed pretty quick when sharpening PM-V11 and A2 steels. After about a minute or so the wheel looses its bite and I redress with the coarse side of the grading stone.
There is, of course, a slight difference in the radius of the hollow grind between the 8" CBN and 10" SG-250 which means I'll be using the SG-250 to remove a bit more material to match radii.
I realize that after I'm done, I won't be resetting any primary bevels for a long time and, in theory, I'll only need to touch up the edge on the strop wheel on sharpening day. That being said, for these harder steels, would I be better served with a different wheel?
Thank you.
#5
General Tormek Questions / Re: Newbie here....
Last post by John Hancock Sr - May 17, 2024, 12:04:40 AMQuote from: guitar_edg on May 16, 2024, 01:56:04 AM30 minutes on the 220 grit stone, and I still don't have a flat surface on the face of the chisel.
Back at it I go.
Been there. My son gave me his chisels and his "knock about" set were really badly damaged. One of the large chisels had a huge chip, took ages. I ended up going back to a belt to take it back past the chip then come back to the Tormek to finish it.
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: Retrofit for the KJ-45 to ...
Last post by VijayDoshi - May 16, 2024, 10:02:17 PMHi Ken, thanks for the questions.
We set to 140mm projection (sometimes we need to adjust to match specific bevels) but our default is 140mm to get a 20 degree bevel. The height of the USB changes occasionally as the wheel get's smaller - perhaps once a month. We now only need to change the USB for really, really wide knives like cleavers. The retrofit I've made seems to work for even the smallest blades @140mm. As the wheel gets smaller, we may need to go back to a two USB system for now we can leave it set at about 175mm for a 250mm wheel - it obviously changes as the wheel gets smaller. The smallest wheel we have currently is 225mm and it's still working.
I measure the wheels and use the Grinding Angle Setter for Tormek app to calculate the USB height every few weeks and post a 140 & 130 projection height for my staff to reference.
We set to 140mm projection (sometimes we need to adjust to match specific bevels) but our default is 140mm to get a 20 degree bevel. The height of the USB changes occasionally as the wheel get's smaller - perhaps once a month. We now only need to change the USB for really, really wide knives like cleavers. The retrofit I've made seems to work for even the smallest blades @140mm. As the wheel gets smaller, we may need to go back to a two USB system for now we can leave it set at about 175mm for a 250mm wheel - it obviously changes as the wheel gets smaller. The smallest wheel we have currently is 225mm and it's still working.
I measure the wheels and use the Grinding Angle Setter for Tormek app to calculate the USB height every few weeks and post a 140 & 130 projection height for my staff to reference.
#7
Knife Sharpening / Re: Retrofit for the KJ-45 to ...
Last post by Ken S - May 16, 2024, 07:09:34 AMVijay,
I have some questions about the design of your shaft. I am being curious, not critical.
I have used the kenjig to set up my knives. In a nutshell, the theory behind this is to establish a common setting for the Distance between the USB and the grinding wheel. This would be set before a sharpening session with no need for readjustment.
The Projection of the knives would be set to 139mm. Others have used 140mm which works just as well. This requires at least three jigs to cover the width ranges of typical kitchen knives. the 139mm Projection was determined by the adjustability range of the SVM-45 allowing some wiggle room for wheel diameter wear.
My questions for you:
Is the adjustability range of your jig shaft such that you can establish a common setting for all knives from sal paring knives to large chef's knives? What is that millimeter setting?
Does that range allow for changes in wheel diameter and changes in bevel angles?
Ken
I have some questions about the design of your shaft. I am being curious, not critical.
I have used the kenjig to set up my knives. In a nutshell, the theory behind this is to establish a common setting for the Distance between the USB and the grinding wheel. This would be set before a sharpening session with no need for readjustment.
The Projection of the knives would be set to 139mm. Others have used 140mm which works just as well. This requires at least three jigs to cover the width ranges of typical kitchen knives. the 139mm Projection was determined by the adjustability range of the SVM-45 allowing some wiggle room for wheel diameter wear.
My questions for you:
Is the adjustability range of your jig shaft such that you can establish a common setting for all knives from sal paring knives to large chef's knives? What is that millimeter setting?
Does that range allow for changes in wheel diameter and changes in bevel angles?
Ken
#8
General Tormek Questions / Re: Newbie here....
Last post by guitar_edg - May 16, 2024, 01:56:04 AMHi All,
Time for some humor. I got my T-8 put together, and based on advice from this forum, I set to work on a cheap chisel. I was having a weird problem, in that I could not get the angle I wanted, without the jig knobs digging into the stone. Because.... I had the jig upside down. Once, I corrected that, I was able to work on a cheap chisel that I have on hand.
Now this chisel, I've had for a while, and I have tried to sharpen it with hand tools. It screwed it up so badly that after 30 minutes on the 220 grit stone, and I still don't have a flat surface on the face of the chisel.
Back at it I go.
Edit to add: It's a Kobalt brand chisel.
Time for some humor. I got my T-8 put together, and based on advice from this forum, I set to work on a cheap chisel. I was having a weird problem, in that I could not get the angle I wanted, without the jig knobs digging into the stone. Because.... I had the jig upside down. Once, I corrected that, I was able to work on a cheap chisel that I have on hand.
Now this chisel, I've had for a while, and I have tried to sharpen it with hand tools. It screwed it up so badly that after 30 minutes on the 220 grit stone, and I still don't have a flat surface on the face of the chisel.
Back at it I go.
Edit to add: It's a Kobalt brand chisel.
#9
Knife Sharpening / Re: Retrofit for the KJ-45 to ...
Last post by VijayDoshi - May 15, 2024, 09:33:28 PMUpdate: We've been using the retrofit for a couple of weeks now. We no longer need to adjust the height of the USB because we have the additional span of the shaft. We haven't found any issue yet with having a longer shaft other than it makes our work easier. The standard threads are tighter than the acme threads on the original and the fit is a bit looser. This makes for fast adjustment against the wood block we use to align. My employees are very happy since this speeds up their work and they are commission based per-inch. We did a farmer's market and never had to change our USB height the whole day! We sharpened over 100 knives.
In any case, we are pleased. One improvement in the next production run will be to add 5-10 mm of threads at the lower limit to account for even wider knives and perhaps chamfer the end of the adjustment knob more for comfort. The all aluminum construction also seems to be self-lubricating against the USB, only concern there is wear...
In any case, we are pleased. One improvement in the next production run will be to add 5-10 mm of threads at the lower limit to account for even wider knives and perhaps chamfer the end of the adjustment knob more for comfort. The all aluminum construction also seems to be self-lubricating against the USB, only concern there is wear...
#10
Knife Sharpening / Re: thoughts on SVM and KJ kni...
Last post by VijayDoshi - May 15, 2024, 07:37:04 AMHi folks,
I've developed a retrofit for the KJ-45 to make it more like the SVM. If you, like me are frustrated with the KJs, take a look! I also made the shaft longer and used a standard vs ACME thread.
https://magnoliaknife.com/products/tormek-kj-45-adjustable-retrofit
I've developed a retrofit for the KJ-45 to make it more like the SVM. If you, like me are frustrated with the KJs, take a look! I also made the shaft longer and used a standard vs ACME thread.
https://magnoliaknife.com/products/tormek-kj-45-adjustable-retrofit