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Quote from: RickKrung on Today at 03:52:24 PM...
Just out of curiousity, has anyone determined the range of blade widths that can be set to the same projection using the KJ jigs? It would be a matter of how deeply the spine of each blade is gripped in the KJ jaws, correct? Can't be very much and still have a good grip on the narrower blades.
Quote from: Ken S on December 14, 2022, 02:10:29 AM3D,
You have posted a well done, balanced comparison. I do have some thoughts on comment: " * Handle/stop is fixed, so you can't adjust projection distance".
I agree somewhat; the end stop is not threaded and cannot be adjusted. However,
the amount of insertion in the clamp jaws can can be varied from 2 to almost 13 mm. That is a range of almost 12mm. Most kitchen knives fall in the range of 12 mm to 50 mm. This translates to four or five kenjig style Projection settings. Admittedly, one pre 2002 SVM-45 jig can handle this entire range.
I do not intend to imply that the KJ-45 is as convenient to adjust as the
SVM-45. I only want to state that the KJ-45 is not entirely "fixed" in Projection.
Ken
Quote from: Swemek on Today at 02:25:56 PMQuote from: cbwx34 on May 31, 2024, 04:34:03 PMTo be honest, I was totally wrong about repeatability. It turned out to be far off on smaller pocket knifes. Anyhow I'm expecting a new one today.Quote from: Swemek on May 31, 2024, 04:19:26 PMThanks, my frustration was channeled that way. And it does offer repeatability, but 15.5 degrees per side might be 15 degrees.
You could always check it against a calculator app, but if you're within 1/2 a degree making that from, I'm guessing pictures? Hats off. I wouldn't worry about it.
(That level of accuracy is a bit overhyped anyway.)
Quote from: cbwx34 on Today at 03:18:52 PMQuote from: tgbto on Today at 02:48:47 PMFor those who have experience with this jig : how easy is it to replicate a protrusion distance with it along with a SVM jig ? Simple enough or is it easier to take a separate measurement using the wood-block method ?
Thanks !
There's no difference in using the KJ vs the SVM jig to set up the KS-123.
BTW, for a bit of trivia, the KS handles a Projection Distance of 122-158 mm.
Quote from: tgbto on Today at 03:30:19 PMI understand that ^^
I might not have been clear enough : I was thinking of how when you set the whole thingamajig up with a given protrusion distance, and you want to use the adjustability of the SVM to setup another knife for the same sharpening angle. Ie not adjust the jig to the second knife then adjust USB, but rather use the SVM handle to adjust the protrusion distance to match that of the first knife without touching the USB. Does it make sense ?
Quote from: Swemek on Today at 02:59:44 PMOld thread alert.
I found it when searching for full flat grind and KJ-45. I have some issues with KJ-45 when it comes to knives that tapers off, like spyderco knives but also fillet knives since the blade height(?) is so small, hope you anderstand what I mean. Blades like that has so much taper so that the jig can't get a good grip, besides the problem with the blade resting towards on side of the jig, giving uneven bevels.
My workaround have been various tiny wedges in plastic, metal and wood where the latter have had the best grip, one on each side.
Do you have any tips when it comes to clamp knives with a more aggressive taper? KJ-can handle a bit of taper but I have many knives where I have to use wedges to get a decent grip.
Did the former jig have the same problem?
I don't know if it's possible, but replacing the No 3 screw for a longer one could be an option. Even if it could lead to other issues like the knob touching the stone instead of the bevel of the knife.
Quote from: cbwx34 on Today at 03:18:52 PMThere's no difference in using the KJ vs the SVM jig to set up the KS-123.
BTW, for a bit of trivia, the KS handles a Projection Distance of 122-158 mm.
Quote from: tgbto on Today at 02:48:47 PMFor those who have experience with this jig : how easy is it to replicate a protrusion distance with it along with a SVM jig ? Simple enough or is it easier to take a separate measurement using the wood-block method ?
Thanks !
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