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Is the honing wheel mounted differently than the more current models, T7 & T8?  I've not heard about a different mounting method, but it sure could be different.  If it is different, perhaps you could describe how and what that means for attempting to find a different position that reduces runout. 

Rick
I took pictures but the file was too large to attach. Imagine a threaded shaft and a wheel with a hole in it. There is only one hole for the shaft and no other attachment points or alignment points. When you screw a large plastic nut down onto the honing wheel, it is pressed against a rubber wheel. The rubber wheel is what is turned and the honing wheel is turning with it. The honing wheel having no attachment points other than its center hole is free to rotate around the drive shaft. Upon loosening the plastic nut it can be turned in any amount, 1/8 turn or 1/360 turn. There is nothing to limit its change of position on the shaft when the plastic nut is not tight. See if this link works: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPe8gmZB6rF1OL2QXL4DiQTwLKIHIzARG_sk5PX The photos are of the same wheel, one with and one without plastic nut.

My Tormek is a Supergrind.

Seems to me that if the stone runs true then there is a defect in the leather honing wheel mount and not in the shaft. May I suggest simply loosening the leather wheel and rotating it on the shaft in 1/8 turns and retightening. See if you can find a sweet spot. Make a mark on the wheel with something so that you can gauge the rotation that you put on it.

I am going to say that the angle is too sharp, so the blade is so thin it chipped from a faulty inclusion.

I prefer the light coming over my left shoulder and down onto the edge being sharpened and I am right handed.

Its value is that of a T8 without a warranty and without a stainless shaft and EZ lock. Do some research  and find out what comes with a T8. Whatever you have to buy to match the T8, you subtract from the price of a new T8 and a little more due to age. It may be new in box but you do not know if any electricals have deteriorated due to age. Try to get a demo. Remember to check all contents of a new T8. I have a Supergrind of that vintage that runs perfectly so just because it is old does not mean it isn't a good buy. The Supergrind and the T8 are very, very similar. Obviously, you are going to play on the age factor in your final price when negotiating.

If there are still scratches on it either you need to spend more time honing or use a more aggressive honing compound. Since you seem to be tired of the honing, I would go to a more aggressive method. Use a polishing compound with a coarser grit than the Tormek paste. Tormek polishing compound is approx. 3 microns which is about 8000 grit. Go to 4000 grit compound or coarser. 3M has a 3000 grit and most likely everyone else too. Maintain your bevel at all costs as in keep it flat against the compound backing. Do not curl it when completing a pass. This is what I would do if it bothered me all that much which it would not.

The stone turning towards you is the way I do most things. Most things being knives or chisels which is all I have ever sharpened.  Be very careful and use a light touch. If the blade ever grabs the wheel, you are going to be scared to death.

I have not use Boeshield on my Tormek in any application but perhaps I should! The only rust point on mine thus far has been the NON stainless shaft and its attendant washer and the metal on the stone. Curiously, or maybe not, the nut has not rusted although touching the washer and shaft. This at least on the old Supergrind I used most recently. I am going to go out on a limb here and suggest that drying the USB would greatly reduce the chance of rust. Honestly, I use the machine so little that there is little to no chance of moisture hanging around except until the stone dries out through evaporation.

I am actually stunned that a professional sharpener is having this problem. I have not heard of it before.

 BOESHIELD T-9

Look where you last used it, it is on the floor. Mine fall out regularly, we need to glue them in. It is a rubber foot. https://www.tormek.com/media/216451/t-7_2000_machine_breakdown.pdf

Sell the 200 and then think about why you even want the 250. If you have just got to have it and money is no object, go ahead. The Japanese stone is not going to make a remarkably sharper edge than the regular stone graded to 1000 grit and then using the honing wheel.

So, you will put your Tormek on a pedestal? I think that is a proper place for it owing to its usefulness. There is a rather long learning curve but only because its utility in sharpening is rather long as well. I would urge you to try to obtain your skills on the simplest items such as knives and chisels first before becoming frustrated on more difficult items. When it comes to extra tools/accessories I would suggest you think about whether or not you really need them before you buy. Unless of course you just have a lot of money to play with. Then, if we only bought "needs" instead of "wants" it would be a dull world. Good luck to you.

Just an FYI concerning stainless steel. At least some of it will rust. The kind Tormek uses might not, I do not know but be aware that not all stainless steel is rust proof. The kind used on Walther TP 22 handguns will rust.