Messages

I have only sharpened with the rotation of the wheel towards me. I have read that either way is fine, no experience there. You must pay ATTENTION when doing this because if the sharp edge "grabs" the wheel it will scare the crap out of you! It will almost certainly gouge the wheel as the edge bites into the wheel. No lasting problems though. I have done this and hence my knowledge. The key is to create the burr and then buff it out. I like the more acute angle of 45° to make the initial burr removal. I then like to go to the less acute 20 ° or so to polish the edges. If the burr is not removed with the intial contact with the polishing wheel then try again. If you continue to have a burr and are unable to remove it, then REburr it and try again. Try to knock the burr off the first time.

I am almost certain that some more people would buy one of these if the cost was lower. However, we are dealing with a certain group of people here. Most are serious woodworkers that want serious tools to use. These people are probably in the category of having enough money to spend on this type high end equipment. I was merely in the category of having enough spare change, I am not a serious woodworker. I do appreciate quality in anything though. The gain in sales by lowering the price point is probably nill. Consequently I do not foresee such a thing happening. If you can save up for this then I think you should. It is darn near a lifetime deal as these are heavy duty tools.

Try a lot Gorilla Glue and if you have wood clamps, use them to firmly join the pieces. Saturate the broken ends so that it fills the voids created by the break, if there are any that is. I havent tried this, just a thought.

Jeff, I have no interest in this stone but I do own a Tormek. My comment centers on the fact that this time as well as many others you give a straight answer. Not to imply that you have been less than candid elsewhere but certainly not here or anywhere that I have read. You may have cost yourself some sales but the truth took precedence. Good job. All I do with my Tormek is sharpen knives and it will sure do that!

I think "Big Guy" has the best answer. Mine was stupid, duhhhhhhh.

Oops, I hope the original poster read your comments!

I am no expert on this but have a couple of ideas. Put some antifreeze in the water or maybe salt, then the stone will not freeze. The salt might cause problems with carbon steel implements but I dont think it would harm stainless. I dont know the effects of anti freeze on steel but it works in cars. I dont think it would matter at all if a dry stone froze, only expanding water due to ice would crumble it in my opinion. This is the opinion of an uneducated man so take it with a whole salt shaker!

I humbly submit that it is not possible to successfully sharpen that object while using a Tormek jig. You must by design swoop, curve or otherwise move the blade in an arc on the Tormek while using a jig. However, if you can do this freehand you will be able to achieve the desired results. You can sharpen straight across the length freehand. I dont know if I could do it, it would take a very steady hand.

Sounds to me like the edge is too rough for the honing wheel. Is the stone graded to the finer grit? Is the honing wheel a little damp so as to hold the abrasive on it? I am a rookie so I cant be much help. However, I do have a 8000 grit Jap waterstone and am very happy with it. It is a polishing devoce just like the leather honing wheel. You know that it is for the final edge. You could never sharpen from dull with it.

I had another thought similar to Jeff Farris concerning the seven year warranty. You cannot buy a seven year warranty on anything for $189, enough said. Buy the T 7.

I have the older model 2006 and find it perfectly adequate for all my sharpening needs. However, I am just a plain old Joe that likes sharp things. I have never sharpened anything except a knife but am an expert at that if I do say so myself! LOL I look at things this way. If the difference is only $189 and you like the way it reads, then buy it. After all, you only spend the $189 more one time. In my humble opinion, I consider the features of the T7 worthy. Buy it!

What is the difference between the SVM 100 and the SVM 140 other than the 100 being discontinued?

Could you use the Tormek Tool Rest in some way? It would still be freehand but the large "flat" of the cleaver would aid in maintaining a consistent bevel. I have not done this or even tried to set it up, I have no idea if it is possible. If you do not have the tool rest, I do; if you need me to I could check the feasability of this idea. Let me know.

I bought a supposedly 4000 grit Japanese waterstone for my Tormek. That sucker wobbled terribly after mounting . I checked the arbor and the bushing that the drive shaft goes through was flat to the frame. I put the original Tormek stone back on and it did not wobble. It didnt wobble before removal either. The company that I got the waterstone from agreed to send a replacement immediately, even before they got mine back. My question is does Tormek produce another stone of this fine a grade just in case that the replacement is no good either. Finally, if my tormek stone does not wobble am I correct in assuming that the other stone was defective? thanx