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Well you get the idea. Maybe it has already been thought of and discarded, but I couldn't find it.

Hi Nick,

quite contrary - this is pretty much what Tormek did with the SVP-80, only that it's a bit wider, but just adding some plate on top of it could fix that.

The suitable knife jig might be more challenging, because of knives having handles, bolsters, and curved edges in particular. But it's a fascinating idea. Thinking along the lines of "open on one side" will be necessary, I suppose. Two open sides would be even better - could possibly be achieved by notching the side rails.

Now you've put me into construction mode....   
Mike

Yon,
welcome to the forum.

A bit of wear and clogging on the stone grader is perfectly normal, I suppose. I think many of us used the stone grade a bit too 'gentle' in the beginning. Both the stone and the grader can tolerate quite a bit of pressure.
Using the edges of the stone grader is another method of enhancing the effects.
Some don't use the stone grader at all, some use diamond plates instead.

You may find some further information here:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3679.msg24179#msg24179
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOTVL-nszyg
Mike

And one can lower the grinding speed by grinding closer to the center.

That's true, great for narrower tools. However, for wider blades you have to consider the difference in speed between the center and the borders, when using the full width.
Actually it's a linear increase, so the circumferal speed on the border is 10 times higher than at 25mm, next to the EzyLock. I guess one has to develop a feeling for that.
Mike

Bill, that's a great idea, too.
So far I plan to make just a simple disk from some POM I've got and change the disks as I need them. (I got 4 different grits, 150, 320, 800 and 1500)

I really like the extended grinding surface from these lapping wheels, as the coating goes right to the center. The 150 grit disk is milling away a lot of material quite quickly, compared to what I usually use.

THK also offers some 10" base plates (aluminum 10mm) which you could stack or use them with spacers without machining anything.

Some news on the project - I haven't managed to make a proper support wheel yet, but asked the company about using the disks wet.

They answered it was mandatory to use these with water, especially on faster machines.
Using Anti Corrosion Concentrate is not regarded as necessary, using water without any additives should be good enough, they said.

Will keep the disks dry after use, anyway. I actually didn't notice any rust on the disks I've used so far.

Mike

Will,
welcome to the forum.

Yes, the gouge jig and others will work with your system. (I can't think of one that wouldn't.)
This older thread may also be interesting for you.

Mike

For some of the flat grind needs one may encounter from time to time, this might be an interesting option.
I got curious when I saw these the other day: https://www.thk.hk/online-cart.php?cid=36&sid=51
These flat lap "wheels" are actually disks with a thickness of only 1.2mm, that means you can even mount them on the face of a conventional stone if not worn out too badly.
250mm, a 12mm bore and a variety of grits from 60 to 3000 - I just had to order some and give it a try - works fine.
You'll need a spacer between the Tormek stone and the Ezylock so that the diamond disk stays dead flat. 

As this is a bit of a makeshift solution, I'll make a base plate for these disks that will allow for better tightening of the Ezylock.
Mike

Chip,

your use of two cascaded FVBs is really inspiring and might be useful for other projects, too. It looks like a really sturdy setup.
Thanks for sharing,

Mike

Rabdy,
welcome to the forum.

Yes, the DF-250 will fit your machine. If you're planning to change wheels often you may want to think about upgrading to the newer stainless shaft with the EzyLock, if you haven't already done so.

Mike

Rick,

kudos to the man behind the mill! What a sophisticated approach!

I can imagine quite some applications for having a horizontally movable pivot point, with the vertical fine adjustment of the DBS plate. And the dowel plugs will allow for great flexibilty.

Great idea, thanks for sharing.

Mike

Thanks, Ken!
I've learned so much in this illustrious forum, I'm glad I can contribute to it. 
Mike

Hi tgbto,

for just checking the angle, setting the AngleCube on the square is precise enough. The main advantage is that it sits on the USB and stays there so I have both hands free and can operate the support bar and the locking screws and simultaneously watch the display in real time.

Probably more a matter of convenience and laziness than of precision.  It certainly falls more in the "nice-to-have" than in the "must-have" category...

That's why I love my CNC so much, it makes it so easy to realize many of those (sometimes weird) ideas.

Mike

Just wanted to add the CAD files - a 2D-DXF drawing and a 3D-model in different formats.
(Win10 has a built-in 3D-Viewer for 3mf and stl, by the way.)

Mike

Personally I wouldn't care for even wear of the wheel when sharpening a single special knife.

Oh, and did you notice the inscription: "Fortis Fortuna Adjuvat" - fortune favours the brave! A special message for the sharpener... 
Mike

Some of you have already put the AngleCube to good use and there are quite some interesting applications for it. I sometimes tried to use the AngleCube for setting the USB parallel to the stone, especially when setting up the SE-77. Immediately after truing, you can be sure it's parallel, but after (re)moving the USB once that may be gone. To obtain proper results with an AngleCube, it's necessary that the AngleCube is perpendicular to the stone and perfectly in line with the USB. Otherwise it's just guesswork.

Finally an idea for a little helper came up, and I wanted to give it a try. So here's the prototype (CNC milled from scrap wood and somewhat looking like a ruined clothes hanger  ).
As you can see, it didn't come out too big. There are 2 pieces of 12mm steel rod inserted below the USB-notch, so the center of gravity is below the USB, which makes it more stable. It might have been better to put these even lower, but it works o.k.


It's useful for

   
• setting the Anglecube on the stone and zero it (I understand that could be done without any jig, but it's easy and more stable)
• putting the jig on the USB and aligning the USB while the AngleCube stays in place.

It's quite easy and according to the probe results are repeatable.


Mike