Messages

Yes, if you want to set a precise angle, you'd better use one of the calculators and measure the distance between the USB and the wheel.
For replicating an existing angle, the Sharpie method is more appropriate.

The second line is only used when working with the MB-100.
https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/accessories/other-accessories/mb-100-multi-base/

I don't have any ideas other than cleaning the whole thing.
Just wanted to add that the diamond wheels are significantly lighter than even a dry SG/SJ wheel, thus weight seems not to be the problem here.

Hi Pietje,

the threads are M12x1.25 (standard M12 is 12x1.5).And the profile of the threading is somehow flattened or square cut and not standard.

I'm afraid you won't find such a nut anywhere (other than the Tormek micro adjust nut, of course).

One I tried with the mobile (SharpCalc) had a great different to the WM-200. A gap with 4mm.

I'm tempted to say the WM-200 is probably wrong

CalcApp would be one to try (the link is above in CBW's signature, or TormekCalc2 by jvh (den gibt's auch in Deutsch) https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=4181.msg29498#msg29498

Mike

Lol, CBW,
again we agree like cats and dogs....

Hi Pietje,

the 20° on the WM-200 are (at least in theory) the angle between 

- the straight line between the very edge (apex) of the blade and the spine of the blade and
- the surface of the stone
It has nothing to do with the actual inclination of the blade.

A levelbox like the anglecube will always measure against a zero line, like a sprit level. You just measure the inclination of s.th.

The WM-200 would still work correctly if you would rotate the Tormek by 45°, while the Levelbox would give different results, right?

Did I get your question right?

Thus being said, the WM-200 is not the most accurate tool for setting up the grinding angle in knives, because it ignores the taper in most blades. Calculators are a better choice.

Stay sharp,
Mike

Speed plays an important role, too, that's right.

But like cbw I also disagree with the 'tension being irrelevant"-theory.

"we recommend max. 100 grams of tension which is next to nothing. Over tensioning will lead you down the wrong path and intentional over tensioning can produce artificially low numbers."(Mike Brubacher himself )

I found that there is little difference between 100 grams of tension and no tension at all, but it starts making a difference when starting to raise tension from 100g upward.

Pietje,

you're welcome, that's why we're all here, I guess. Just for that kind of nerd thoughts...

I think 20 dps is quite an obtuse angle for a kitchen knife used for vegetables, which would explain the different results with onions vs. chives. I'd try someting between 13 and 15 dps instead and repeat the onion experiment.

The edge retention study that Nick mentioned was also very interesting - you may find the provisional results here: http://knifegrinders.com.au/CATRA-report.htm. Quite a surprise regarding the Sabatier!

As for the naming conventions - I think there was some some diagram around, but can't find it right now. Usually we talk about 'dps' (=degrees per side), which leaves little room for misunderstanding.

Mike

Ken,
I think you're referring to https://youtu.be/tXO6YejYdck?t=1508, which is about 20 minutes earlier

Hi Pietje,
are we talking about 20° per side or 20° included?

Mike

Hello Pietje,
and welcome to the forum.
These are interesting thoughts.

However, the mounting bar on my SVM-00 is 2.50mm, not 3mm.

These 2.5mm would be

a) close (enough?) to the proper value for the SVM-45
b) quite sturdy and
c) probably stock material

This is just pure speculation. Don't have your SVM-00 ground down too far.

Mike

Ok, Craig,

guess we can sort out that one, it would not have that much of an effect.

You wrote about having checked the angle of the plane iron - is it still rectangular with the jig after having it clamped there. (I assume you align it with the jig's shoulder, right?)
Also be sure to clamp the iron evely and don't overtighten the screws. Keeping that clamping bar parallel or not can really make a diifference.

Mike

Craig,
welcome to the forum!

That seems to be a pretty large deviation. Is your support bar itself at a right angle and do you somehow make sure the support bar and the stone surface are still parallel after height adjustment?
(I hardly dare asking, but it's easily overlooked.)

Mike

Hi Mitch,

I'd contact Tormek support and send them the link to the video. The drive wheel indeed seems to have some imbalance in more than one dimension.Is ist just me or does the motor sound quite coarse, too?
Anyway, that's one for the support guys at support@tormek.se - they'll ask the right questions and find the most expedient solution.