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The USB-430 is now on the official Tormek website.
https://www.tormek.com/international/en/spare-parts/other-spare-parts-and-upgrades/us-430-universal-support-extended/

May still take some time until the importers actually get hold of it...

Hi Fernando,

I've had that more than once (at least 5 times), with the lock screws of different accessories. However, with a drop of super glue it was a quick fix, and none of the glued heads came off ever since.
Just be careful not to glue the threads together, so remove the screw before pressing it into the head again.

Those screws seem to be just pressed in, so I had already wondered if I was the only one to come across the problem. Obviously not...

Hi TJ,
I've had the same effect exactly once. It took me quite some time to get the nut loose again. Had to use a wrench, too. It worked only after applying a drop of oil and some very(!) careful smacks on the nut with a piece of wood and a rubber mallet.
Now I only grab the wheels (not the nut)  and spin them a bit, then the nut is loose.

I would however suggest to sufficiently tighten the nut when mounting a wheel. Otherwise it's locked by torque, thus being way tighter than by hand.
A drop of oil on the threads may help, but I think keeping the threads clean from any dirt is more important. Any thick grease in this place might even have an adverse effect of catching particles. A tiny wire brush might also help with cleaning the threads.

Wish you success in removing the wheel. 

Micha,

The SE-76 replaced the SVH-60 straight edge jig.  Unlike the SE-77, you cannot adjust the camber with the other two. 

Thanks, Rich. I wasn't aware of an SVH-60, either.   But looking at the picture above I see the advantage for short chisels.

I just wanted to point out that the adjustment knobs on SE-77 are not necessarily for allowing some camber, but also allow for easy and very precise correction of the work angle.

Micha

Interesting, I didn't even know there is a SE-76. It's the predecessor of the SE-77, right?
The main difference seem to be the two adjustment screws. I found that using these is very helpful when you have to correct an angle or a skewed bevel.

Hi TJ, welcome to the forum.
That sounds really strange. How far does the knife blade protrude beyond the jig?

Yes, I'm also still cautious before sharpening the more expensive stuff . Especially scissors and tools. These scissors were also really inexpensive ones which wouldn't have brought about deep regret if the experiment had failed.
I'm getting reliable great results on knives, though, so I'm not that hesitant with these. I've prescribed myself some more serious training  before actually grinding the better recurved ones - I'm still learning, reading and practicing a lot.

This forum with all its dedicated Tormek users is such a great starting point with so much information and so many people sharing their most clever ideas - a big Thank You to all!

I bought that Vetako the other day. It arrived very quickly. (well, Germany is not that far from the Czech Republic  )
So far I'm very happy with it. It really helps with knives that you sharpen for the very first time, and sometimes is also useful for analyzing the results.

Thank you very much.
I feel I'm making good progress. So far I've restored some of my chisels (even some of the former tin lid openers  ) Sharpend two planer blades, too.
Sharpening straight knives is quite an easy task and the results are outstanding. I'll sure need some more practice with strongly curved blades, but am confident I'll get the hang of it soon.
Even sharpened my first household scissors successfully, thus rescuing them from being thrown away. That thing didn't even cut anything before, now it's as good as new.

Hello community,

I'm looking forward to being part of this great forum. It's been a wonderful source for all kind of information. Just by lurking around here I learned so much.
I'm really grateful that so many of you "old hands" here are sharing your profound knowledge so generously.

To introduce myself a bit:
I'm quite a new Tormek user, after some careful consideration I got a new T8 with quite some accessories.
I'm mostly into knives, but also enjoy woodworking, thus I'm also fascinated by the great job this machine does with sharpening chisels and planer blades. A great addition to my workshop. I'm just a hobbyist.

Just wanted to say hello and thanks again for your willingness to help and your great ideas.

Regards from Germany

Mike

Hi Erivan,

take into consideration that Leroy reported that this occurs on "all his sharpening no matter what he's trying to polish", so I still think it's related to the wheel itself. I'm really courious about his report if trueing has helped or not.

Regards
Mike

I know what you mean. Stones sure are expensive, but I think we need to understand these are our consumables.
And I think that using a stone several times more because of unsatisfactory results means unnecessary wear of material, too, compared to doing it once on a really plain stone surface.
And it sure is more satisfying. Just my newbie thoughts...

Regards,
Mike

Did you already try trueing the SJ-200? The stone is soft enough to catch some foreign particles, that could be a possible reason for nicks.
Regards,
Mike