How to make a honing stand for t4

[Edwe]

Hi
I want to move the support bracket over to the other side and use the SVM-45 Jigg to have the correct angle when honing. Is there a way to do that?

[cbwx34]

Hi
I want to move the support bracket over to the other side and use the SVM-45 Jigg to have the correct angle when honing. Is there a way to do that?

You mean something like wootz Front Vertical Base?

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3627.0

If so, he sells them... there's also info in this thread for making one...

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2635.0

(Hope that's what you mean).

[Edwe]

Yes thats exactly what I need.
Not sure the shipping fee from Australia to Sweden would be comfortable though

Is there maybe anyone in Scandinavia building this setup or similar?

[cbwx34]

Yes thats exactly what I need.
Not sure the shipping fee from Australia to Sweden would be comfortable though

Is there maybe anyone in Scandinavia building this setup or similar?

I don't know of anyone else building them.

If you can get a BGM-100... you don't have to make a Front Vertical Base (FVB)... you could also mount it to a block of wood or something, and mount it in front of the Tormek, kinda like how it's done for a bench grinder, only higher, (mainly just not as convenient).  But, if you can obtain the supplies (or something similar) in the 2nd thread I linked... the FVB is really not too difficult to build.

[Edwe]

Thanks again cbwx34

I even recognized I have look at that thread and even commented in it about it a year ago but didnt get my thumb out of my **s
I have Now ordered the XB-100 to force me to do this cause I really need it.

Thanks again for your support

[GKC]

As CB says, the Front Vertical Base is easy to make.  As a small tweak (but one I liked), I used 12x200mm stainless steel bolts (with the heads cut off) instead of 12mm threaded rod.  That way, you have a short length of thread where you bolt the rods to the rectangular box, but smooth rods to slide through the collar mounts on the machine.  (I don't see the need for a fine adjustment on these rods, so I don't miss having threaded rod.)

Gord

[cbwx34]

Thanks again cbwx34

I even recognized I have look at that thread and even commented in it about it a year ago but didnt get my thumb out of my **s
I have Now ordered the XB-100 to force me to do this cause I really need it.

Thanks again for your support

Cool.  Hope it works out... post the result when you're done!  (Good catch on just getting the XB-100... forgot about that).

As CB says, the Front Vertical Base is easy to make.  As a small tweak (but one I liked), I used 12x200mm stainless steel bolts (with the heads cut off) instead of 12mm threaded rod.  That way, you have a short length of thread where you bolt the rods to the rectangular box, but smooth rods to slide through the collar mounts on the machine.  (I don't see the need for a fine adjustment on these rods, so I don't miss having threaded rod.)

Gord

Good idea too... you're right, probably no need for a fine adjustment... I don't use one anyway.

[Ken S]

I think the supposed importance of the microadjust is generally overblown. I think having one universal support bar with microadjust is necessary for using the TT-50 truing tool. For other jigs, I consider it "convenient" rather than essential.

Ken

[Edwe]

As CB says, the Front Vertical Base is easy to make.  As a small tweak (but one I liked), I used 12x200mm stainless steel bolts (with the heads cut off) instead of 12mm threaded rod.  That way, you have a short length of thread where you bolt the rods to the rectangular box, but smooth rods to slide through the collar mounts on the machine.  (I don't see the need for a fine adjustment on these rods, so I don't miss having threaded rod.)

Gord

Thanks for the tip Gord
But will 200mm be long enough?

[Edwe]

As CB says, the Front Vertical Base is easy to make.  As a small tweak (but one I liked), I used 12x200mm stainless steel bolts (with the heads cut off) instead of 12mm threaded rod.  That way, you have a short length of thread where you bolt the rods to the rectangular box, but smooth rods to slide through the collar mounts on the machine.  (I don't see the need for a fine adjustment on these rods, so I don't miss having threaded rod.)

Gord

Thanks for the tip Gord
But will 200mm be long enough?

Well read trough the trad again and I answer my self as the longest bults in the tread were 8" (203mm)

[Edwe]

Now I have to order the tube.
I could choose between these 2

50x30x3mm

or this

50x25x2mm (there is also 50x30x2mm)

Witch one is strong enough?

[Edwe]

Another question
How do you mount the BGM-100?
With nuts on the backside or do you make treads in the box?

[cbwx34]

Now I have to order the tube.
I could choose between these 2

50x30x3mm

or this

50x25x2mm (there is also 50x30x2mm)

Witch one is strong enough?

Mine is 50x25x3mm... but it's aluminum, (and what was available locally).  Jan listed his was steel at 2mm thick... I doubt strength will be an issue between the two you posted, it shouldn't see a lot of force in use.

Another question
How do you mount the BGM-100?
With nuts on the backside or do you make treads in the box?

I used bolts and nuts on mine.

[Edwe]

Thanks again

I made a question to the seller, lets se what he answer.

[GKC]

Thanks for the tip Gord
But will 200mm be long enough?

Yes, I have found them to be plenty long.  In fact, for all operations I have done with a FVB, most of the rods are inboard and only 2-3cm extend outside the collars.

For the box, I used hollow aluminium box bar in SAE dimensions: 1"x2"x1/8" thick.  The shortest piece I could get was enough for about six FVBs 

Gord