The one change you should make to the Tormek...

[cbwx34]

Here are some pictures of the SVM-100 in the SVD-186 jig piece :

Seems to fit well.

If someone wants to try it and doesn't own the SVD-186 or SVD-185, you can buy the part separately.

Rich, Thanks for the photos.

Always nice to have options, but what I don't get is WHY would one do this.  It allows rotation but removes tilting and pivoting.  As far as knives go, I don't see it, but there could be other applications where a strict perpendicularity is good.  Help me out, please.

BTW, you might want to do this the honor of having its own thread. 

Rick

I asked him to do this... just to see if anything came to mind.    Never know...

Might work well for Wharncliffe blades (or other straight edges), where you don't want the knife pivoting at all... 

[RickKrung]

Rotating on a pin should be a good idea... this current "3 collar" setup rotates on the screw, and it has a nice feel to it.

I need to find an alternative to the screw holding the 2 collars together though... hasn't happened yet, ('cause I haven't really used it much), but I suspect that it's going to come apart since the two collars rotate back and forth... can't imagine it's not turning the screw, and there's not a lot of length holding them together (since neither side of the screw can touch the USB or knife jig in this setup). 

CB,

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing yet.  By rotating around a pin, I mean one attached to the front/lower face of the pin, as in the photo.  The center part of the pin would be missing so the assembly would fit on the jig shaft.  A second collar as you have on the top could be used to set the projection, but I plan on shortening the adjustable stop for that purpose.


As for using a screw for a pivot on your setup, it seems to be working well and unless you were to rotate it 360 deg. a time or two I don't think it is likely to come apart and I don't see an advantage of going to a pin.  In fact, I see a disadvantage as then they could come apart, perhaps while in use and that wouldn't be so good. 

Rick

[Ken S]

Looking back at the fifth photo in the original post of this topic (showing the stop collar), I have thought about modifying a stop collar. Replacement parts only cost ten dollars US. A piece of half inch or twelve mm dowel could be chucked into a lathe, metal or wood. Using a skew chisel or similar tool, the radiused face could be cut down to the desired diameter and smoothed. This would work like a stop collar and retain the screw adjustment of the regular Tormek jig. It should be a very quick and easy project for anyone with a lathe. Doing it with a drill press would be doable, but laborious.

Ken

[RickKrung]

Looking back at the fifth photo in the original post of this topic (showing the stop collar), I have thought about modifying a stop collar. Replacement parts only cost ten dollars US. A piece of half inch or twelve mm dowel could be chucked into a lathe, metal or wood. Using a skew chisel or similar tool, the radiused face could be cut down to the desired diameter and smoothed. This would work like a stop collar and retain the screw adjustment of the regular Tormek jig. It should be a very quick and easy project for anyone with a lathe. Doing it with a drill press would be doable, but laborious.

Ken

Ken,

I did that, first with rounding the front face of the adjustable stop, second facing it off square.  I found the rounded one too difficult to keep on the USB.  It was constantly sliding off, downward.  That is why I made the squared off one and find it works much better but one has to be sure to keep good pressure on the jig at the USB.  Distracting and tiring. As a novice still, I don't have the skill to be distracted like that. 

My recommendation is to first cut down a stock stop to a square face and see how you like it.  If you think it can be improved by rounding it, give that a try.  This sort of thing is why I bought three additional adjustable stops a while back when one of us posted about having rounded one off (was it Wootz?)

I think part of the problem with even the squared off stop is that it doesn't project beyond the centerline of the USB.  Thus, I would also recommend leaving enough of the front face of the stock stop to do just that, project beyond the centerline.  I realize might leave more than we might want due to the same effect as the width of the stop stop. 

This is why I am working on making the pivot surface pins attached to the front face of a collar.  Make the pivot point the smallest diameter possible while getting that pivot point well below the centerline of the USB.

Rick

[cbwx34]

CB,

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing yet.  By rotating around a pin, I mean one attached to the front/lower face of the pin, as in the photo.  The center part of the pin would be missing so the assembly would fit on the jig shaft.  A second collar as you have on the top could be used to set the projection, but I plan on shortening the adjustable stop for that purpose.

As for using a screw for a pivot on your setup, it seems to be working well and unless you were to rotate it 360 deg. a time or two I don't think it is likely to come apart and I don't see an advantage of going to a pin.  In fact, I see a disadvantage as then they could come apart, perhaps while in use and that wouldn't be so good. 

Rick

Should work similar, but I'll wait to see the final result.  (If you mount it on top of the stop collar, I'm not sure you'd need a 2nd one to set the projection length?... but will have to see how it works).

Edit to add:  I got to thinking... I can loctite the screw on one side... that should hold it in place.  (I don't think it has to rotate 360° to come apart... I'm thinking it can turn a little at a time until it separates).

Looking back at the fifth photo in the original post of this topic (showing the stop collar), I have thought about modifying a stop collar. Replacement parts only cost ten dollars US. A piece of half inch or twelve mm dowel could be chucked into a lathe, metal or wood. Using a skew chisel or similar tool, the radiused face could be cut down to the desired diameter and smoothed. This would work like a stop collar and retain the screw adjustment of the regular Tormek jig. It should be a very quick and easy project for anyone with a lathe. Doing it with a drill press would be doable, but laborious.

Ken

Welcome aboard!  (my crazy train of mods).   

[RickKrung]

Should work similar, but I'll wait to see the final result.  (If you mount it on top of the stop collar, I'm not sure you'd need a 2nd one to set the projection length?... but will have to see how it works).

Edit to add:  I got to thinking... I can loctite the screw on one side... that should hold it in place.  (I don't think it has to rotate 360° to come apart... I'm thinking it can turn a little at a time until it separates).

CB,

Need for the second pin is for flipping the jig over to grind the other side.  Whichever pin is down will be used to set the projection. 

I'll go with your thoughts on the screw.  You are the one with it your hands on it.  I"m sure Loctite would do the trick. 



I had some time to work on my pivot pin collar idea today.  First photo is of just the collars after turning and drilling. 


Second photo is of one pin placed in the top position, to give the notion of how it would look and function in the bottom position.  Not sure how much pivoting is necessary, but I may have to relieve the front corner of the collar to allow the pin to carry all the pivot motion. 


I'd have waited until it was more complete to post, but I'm completely tuckered out and am ceasing all work activities for the night. 

Rick

[RickKrung]

Found the energy for just a little bit more. 

I have detailed CAD drawings for putting screws through the collar into the pins to secure them.  I'd been thinking about just trying Loctite, but I think I had forgotten about it.  CB's comment about Loctiting one side of the screw in his collars joggled my memory. 

I am going to to try simply Loctiting the pins to the collar.  I am not highly confident, but Loctite can do amazing things.  I will try it, use it this way until if fails.  Then I"ll go with the screws. 


If it turns out I have to relieve the front corners of the collar, I can pop the pins loose with heat, do the relieving and re-Loctitie them. 

Rick

[cbwx34]

CB,

Need for the second pin is for flipping the jig over to grind the other side.  Whichever pin is down will be used to set the projection. 

I'll go with your thoughts on the screw.  You are the one with it your hands on it.  I"m sure Loctite would do the trick. 

I had some time to work on my pivot pin collar idea today.  First photo is of just the collars after turning and drilling. 

Second photo is of one pin placed in the top position, to give the notion of how it would look and function in the bottom position.  Not sure how much pivoting is necessary, but I may have to relieve the front corner of the collar to allow the pin to carry all the pivot motion. 

I'd have waited until it was more complete to post, but I'm completely tuckered out and am ceasing all work activities for the night. 

Rick

Looks good!  (Earlier you had said 2nd stop collar, not pin, when I said I didn't think you'd need a 2nd one).

How much pivot is dependant on the knife shape... for most knives I think it'll work fine.

Found the energy for just a little bit more. 

I have detailed CAD drawings for putting screws through the collar into the pins to secure them.  I'd been thinking about just trying Loctite, but I think I had forgotten about it.  CB's comment about Loctiting one side of the screw in his collars joggled my memory. 

I am going to to try simply Loctiting the pins to the collar.  I am not highly confident, but Loctite can do amazing things.  I will try it, use it this way until if fails.  Then I"ll go with the screws. 

If it turns out I have to relieve the front corners of the collar, I can pop the pins loose with heat, do the relieving and re-Loctitie them. 

Rick

Lookin' good! 

[RickKrung]

Loctite joint seems pretty strong. 


Pin Pivot Collar on the jig.


And on the Tormek, showing the maximum angle before hitting the outer edge of the collar.  That looks like enough pivot the the knives in my collection, which is well within "most knives". 


Gotta run, so no time now to test it out, but I'm pretty excited. 

Rick

[cbwx34]

Loctite joint seems pretty strong. 

Pin Pivot Collar on the jig.

And on the Tormek, showing the maximum angle before hitting the outer edge of the collar.  That looks like enough pivot the the knives in my collection, which is well within "most knives". 

Gotta run, so no time now to test it out, but I'm pretty excited. 

Rick

Gotta say, I'm pretty excited too (for me and you).    (What version of Loctite did you use?)

I spent the morning sharpening knives of various shapes and sizes... for example this Kershaw with a bit of recurve, and a pretty significant "belly to tip" area...


... and my "4 collar setup" has worked well.  Having the knife jig attached to the USB really gives me better control, especially on the "light alternating finish passes" I'm always recommending.  Getting great edges straight off the stone... not even deburring after.  (Seriously.) 

I need to get past the 'honeymoon phase' and work with it a while, but for under $15... some of you may want to give this a shot.  The Shaft Collars I got from McMaster-Carr (Part #: 57485K69).  I would get a M6x12mm long set screw to put them together (I used one I cut from another screws, so no part # sorry).  (You might Loctite the part of the screw that goes into the collar that rides on the USB, so it can't turn and contact the USB).

But yeah... really likin' it! 

p.s.  Rick has been pretty instrumental with suggestions, (thanks again!) and am always open to more, if anyone sees room for improvement or an alternative idea! 

[RickKrung]

Gotta say, I'm pretty excited too (for me and you).    (What version of Loctite did you use?)

Loctite 262 Threadlocker High Strength

Not sure if this is the strongest but it is what I use for joining two parts of a mandrel tool that I sell for turning fishing rod reel seats. I've not had any issues with it releasing.  It can be made to release with high heat, which I have had occasion to do. 

Rick

[RickKrung]

More on the Pivot Pin Stop.

I milled flats on the side of my two jig shafts and put a set screw in the pivot pin collar.  This is what I use on the reel seat mandrel that I sell.  In this case it allows the pivot pin stop to slide up and down as the modified threaded stop is adjusted to set the projection.  In this case, I will lock the set screw to keep the pivot pin from dropping down the shaft. 




The completed Pivot Pin Stop on the jig and one the machine.


Three stops compared, stock adjustable stop, squared off stop and my Pivot Pin Stop.  I modified (shortened) the stop that I had rounded off so that the total length of my Pivot Pin Stop was the same as the original, unmodified stop.  The squared off stop is that same length as I did not remove any material from the front face.


Now I just have to make another collar/pin assembly for the other jig and get on with finding out it works as well as I hope.

Rick

[RickKrung]

. error in posting.

[cbwx34]

Looks good!  (Not the posting error).

Hopefully you'll get a chance to try it soon.

[cbwx34]

Thanks to another brainstorming session with Rick (Dude's got some skills)... I adapted my collar setup to the KME clamp...



... so far, so good!!!