The one change you should make to the Tormek...

[cbwx34]

...
Then CB's USB extension came up and I made one.  If you notice my the photos, that is what the second USB is mounted in. 
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I hope Tormek is paying attention.
Rick

I can't take credit for the extension... I stole the idea.  I'm not sure who came up with it first. Jan published a parts list... wootz sells a version on his website, and probably others.

I hope Tormek is paying attention too. I may post something on Facebook (although not really into FB)... they seem more responsive over there actually.   

I'll watch with anticipation to see how you may find a way with the spring thing.  The Pin Pivot stop works so well, I do not feel the need for it.  I have thought of removing the stop altogether, as you mention because the laser line allows keeping the bevel in the same place, the stop just may not be necessary, even making the user do more work than is necessary. 

Kinda like free-hand or using a platform.  I liked the consistency of the platform, but didn't like how it scratched the blade.  I have have not had scratching occur using the jigs (I know others have). 
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Rick

You may be in for a wait... like you, I'm pretty happy with the current setup... so no actual plans to pursue the spring idea... unless the need arises... 

I don't know what is next.  Maybe just sharpening some knives. 

Man, way to kill the mood. 
(Kidding of course).

Enjoy!

[wootz]

The spring-loaded version is definitely a solution for grinding concaved and S-shaped blades away from the wheel (edge-trailing), as maintaining the edge curve at the Laser LOC is currently a pain.

The laser module holder better be extended by 10cm and have 2 extra 12mm holes in the middle and at the opposite end for use on both the horizontal US, and the vertical.

Rick, please check your PM.

[RickKrung]

I'll watch with anticipation to see how you may find a way with the spring thing.  The Pin Pivot stop works so well, I do not feel the need for it.  I have thought of removing the stop altogether, as you mention because the laser line allows keeping the bevel in the same place, the stop just may not be necessary, even making the user do more work than is necessary. 

Kinda like free-hand or using a platform.  I liked the consistency of the platform, but didn't like how it scratched the blade.  I have have not had scratching occur using the jigs (I know others have). 
...
Rick

You may be in for a wait... like you, I'm pretty happy with the current setup... so no actual plans to pursue the spring idea... unless the need arises... 

I don't know what is next.  Maybe just sharpening some knives. 

Man, way to kill the mood. 
(Kidding of course).

Enjoy!

I gave freehanding with the knife jig a try.  Worked pretty good, but the shaft needs to be longer for a better grip and control of the inward and outward movement. 

I set the projection using Jan's jig with the stop in place (any stop would work). 


Then using Wootz's applet, determine the USB height and then set the laser location.


Then, working from the front because I can't see the laser line very well from the rear, begin the grinding, straight first.


Then the curve.  I found I needed to pull back through the curve, but pushing out for the tip.




Like I said above, the shaft needs to be longer.  I'm thinking of cutting the shaft off near the head of the jig and grafting in an extension.  I don't have any rod of that diameter so would have to turn it down from larger stock. 

It was a bit on the slow side, but I think with practice and a longer shaft the speed should improve. 

Rick

[RickKrung]

Man, way to kill the mood. 
(Kidding of course).

Enjoy!

I'll provide a teaser.  Recall me trying to motorize the Truing Tool, but didn't like the misalignment and vibration?  I received some 10mm threaded rod for making a new drive screw that so I can make a smooth shafted drive connection.  I also got a misalignment tolerant coupler and some ball bearings to mount the shaft in the tool. 



Rick

[RickKrung]

I have received one request to make a set of Pivot Pin Collars. 

If anyone else is interested, please let me know.  I am not interested in spending a lot time fabricating very many of these. If enough are interested, I can get a fabrication quote from the CNC machine shop where I get my reel seat mandrels made. 





Rick

[cbwx34]

I gave freehanding with the knife jig a try.  Worked pretty good, but the shaft needs to be longer for a better grip and control of the inward and outward movement. 

I set the projection using Jan's jig with the stop in place (any stop would work). 

Then using Wootz's applet, determine the USB height and then set the laser location.

Then, working from the front because I can't see the laser line very well from the rear, begin the grinding, straight first.


Then the curve.  I found I needed to pull back through the curve, but pushing out for the tip.

Like I said above, the shaft needs to be longer.  I'm thinking of cutting the shaft off near the head of the jig and grafting in an extension.  I don't have any rod of that diameter so would have to turn it down from larger stock. 

It was a bit on the slow side, but I think with practice and a longer shaft the speed should improve. 

Rick

I'll have to give this some thought and a try... all my freehand sharpening with the jig was from the front of the machine, sharpening off the USB conversion, using the Laser as a guide (I had another idea in mind at the time).  (I spin the machine around to sharpen off the vertical USB, and haven't done it "guided freehand").    (A quick try... I think it would work better, but doesn't solve the laser view issue).

(I knew you'd have other projects in the wings).

[cbwx34]

I gave freehanding with the knife jig a try.  Worked pretty good, but the shaft needs to be longer for a better grip and control of the inward and outward movement. 

Temporary solution?

I threaded the regular Stop Collar on backwards... gave me something to hang onto.



Might give that a try as a temporary solution.

[cbwx34]

The spring-loaded version is definitely a solution for grinding concaved and S-shaped blades away from the wheel (edge-trailing), as maintaining the edge curve at the Laser LOC is currently a pain.

Gonna give it a try?  (Hope so!) 

[RickKrung]

Temporary solution?

I threaded the regular Stop Collar on backwards... gave me something to hang onto.

Might give that a try as a temporary solution.

Yes, good thought.  I tried the stock stop with the large flange.  Seemed too bulky, required me to move my whole hand.  Then I tried the squared off stop (one in the middle) where only the flange had been removed.  Much better feel and much finer control with just the fingers.  Haven't actually tried sharpening yet, just holding them on the USB.  Will try both in actual sharpening. 



Pivot Pin Stop on the right, on the turned down threaded stop, I added the locking knob.  I will do that to the squared off one too, to allow adjusting position and have it stay in that location.  Turning them around precludes using the O rings and I didn't think they were positive enough anyhow. 

Rick

[Crusty]

I love what you have done with the Pivot Pin stop collar Rick, fantastic evolution and kept it simple too.
Let me know if your going to make a couple of extra as I would be interested for sure.

[RickKrung]

I love what you have done with the Pivot Pin stop collar Rick, fantastic evolution and kept it simple too.
Let me know if your going to make a couple of extra as I would be interested for sure.

Thanks.  Nice when it works out that way.  Sometimes (maybe often), I can make things more complicated than they need to be.  I will not be making a few of these in my shop to sell.  I can't stand on my feet for long periods of time and that stuff is boring.  I did too much production work in my father's shop as a young man.  I will only make these available by having a run of parts made by my CNC shop.  To do that, I need commitments, solid numbers. 

I will collect names of those interested and if/when it seems like there is enough interest, I'll poll everyone for a final count.  In the meantime, I will get a production cost quote from the shop and let everyone know how much that would be.  That is a big part of things for most everyone. 

Rick

[Crusty]

Rick I totally understand (no pun intended) about being on your feet mate, been doing it for 38 years in cabinet shops etc.

Ken, do we have a thread/topic area where we can put a small intro or summary of what we have done/doing/skills etc and how we came across Tormeks?

[Ken S]

Crusty,

I have mixed feelings about a separate relevant conversation/ background portion of the forum. It seems an organized way to do things. I have read the odd disgruntled comment that this is just a chat room. For the record, I disagree with those comments. We do get off topic sometimes. (Frankly, I usually enjoy these diversions,) However, the majority of the topics and replies are on subject. We have some amazing topics, like the six page (so far) topic on "the one change". I am not bothered by the mix, however, I am just a member/moderator and not the supreme commander.

I think a logical solution, if it is posdible, would be to invlude an optional bio/background line on the individual member page. Heaven help the unfortunate member trying to learn about my background sifting through my 4200+ wordy posts! One click to my member page would be so much easier.

Ken

[cbwx34]

...
I spent the morning sharpening knives of various shapes and sizes...
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I need to get past the 'honeymoon phase' and work with it a while, ...
...

So, today I moved a bit past the 'honeymoon phase'... 

Most of the knives I practiced on were EDC style and or hunting/camping style knives (which, as I've said before, is where the standard collar is a bit lacking).

Today I sharpened an 8" Chef's knife, and learned, that this is probably the limit of the "4 Collar" setup I'm using.  The Stop Collar that is sliding on the USB hits the upright of the USB at this point.

Could probably "squeeze" out a little more length, but at this point, easier to switch to a different setup.

Still like it for the above mentioned knives though (my favorite to sharpen).... 

[puffin]

Thank you to everyone who contributes to this thread (and forum). It is a wealth of information.

I made my own version of Herman's support for a total of $4.05 shipped (not counting the two m5 bolts and the m6 bolt) with Aliexpress parts, to avoid having to disassemble it every time I wanted to use the scissor jig.

-SK12 linear shaft support: $1.37 shipped
-Aluminium alloy plate 5mmx40mm, length 100mm: $ 2.68 shipped

I use a 40mm wide plate to match my CBN wheels. It may work fine with the 50mm Tormek wheels but I've never tried it.

The existing screw on the linear shaft support is small and weak, so I removed it and drilled/tapped an M6 thread so I could use an M6 bolt. The aluminium plate was tapped to fit two m5 bolts corresponding to the holes on the linear shaft support. If you don't have a tap set, you can find decent HSS ones for ~$5 shipped.  I filed the lip of the aluminium plate and a little bit off of the corner of the linear shaft support (towards the tormek USB) to be able to go down to a sharpening angle of 10 degrees on 250mm wheels, mainly for scandi grinds. I also scored the inside of the 12mm hole with a file to make it more grippy.

The support is rock solid and performs well. Tightening it to the Tormek bar takes a little too much force to be able to use an m6 knob such as those found on the Tormek jigs so it's inferior to Herman's support in that aspect. This could be remedied by sawing two slots on each side of the linear shaft support where it bends to clamp the tormek USB, but I don't mind using a wrench.

To be honest I don't use it much because I'm more comfortable with the regular knife jig, with a modified collar similar to those found in this thread. I mainly lift the handle to compensate for curvature (mimicking the technique Jeff Farris shows in his videos) though I like the single pivot point when I need to do small adjustments. I get good results (for me) even on small curved knives but I understand professional knife sharpeners may have different standards than I do regarding the knife point profile.

The modified collar I use is just a piece of U-shape extruded aluminium bent into a triangle for the pivot, and epoxied to a 12mm drill depth stop. Originally I was going to make something less ugly, using a "SHF12 12mm horizontal linear shaft support" (~$2 shipped on AliExpress) and a piece of T-shape extruded aluminium epoxied to it for the pivot. The prototype I made works well enough and I never bothered. The only improvement I'll make is to eventually stick two folded pieces of PTFE where the USB rubs against it, instead of the clear tape I currently use.